Ronin

I love how they pan aftermarket (Clark) crystals. I have never had a WR issue, quality, or fit issue with a Clark or Sternkruz. LOL. If it is not Rolex it must be junk, right?

Orange for Halloween!

Nice job. Did you have to glue the crystal on? I didn't think this was a gen like construction case? Finally, what diameter is the dial if you happen to know?

nice job

Sticking with Fall/Halloween colors.

^^^^ 14060 Non-COSC FTW. Seeing a 14060 (especially Non-COSC, which is easily confused for a 5513 until you validate sapphire) gets me excited still. I just don't get excited when I see a 16610.

Tudor

Interesting. I was expecting a flatter topped A in SEA. I have a SRSD REP dial in my parts drawer that is pretty close after looking at those photos. Hmmm.

I have to agree. By-Tor's analysis is spot on. The 16610 is the evolution, perhaps final evolution of the "Great" Submariners. It is a great watch and thus successful in its sales numbers. Just like an iPhone. Personal feelings aside, design aesthetics aside-- is it a victim of its success? To get back the to the real question-- Does seeing a 16610 in public wow you, woo you? Put another way, and keeping on topic here in the Rolex sub forum-- What Rolex, being worn by stranger in public would WoW you? (My bet is it would NOT be the 16610) YMMV.

I picked one up from Andrew with the ETA Clone (A2824), and it is running perfect. Put it on my timing machine and there is only 0.1ms of beat error (excellent) and is running about +12 (same as my Doxa's and Seikos from the factory). Adding $100 is going to push that close to $500.00! I do not see the value. If the ETA clone dies in a few years, it is a simple R&R.

Recent new favorites of mine: AG (Adriano Goldschmied) are a new favorite of mine. http://www.agjeans.com/ Joes Jeans Kasil Jeans with Diesel my old standby.

If the watch is a high value, must have situation-- When shipping outbound from the US, use EXPRESS service. Chances are it will be to EU in under 72 hours. PRIORITY service seems to be not much better than First Class. On the flip side, I had a package sit in NY processing center for 45 days, and it magically appeared (France to US).

Excellent responses guys. Just what I hoped for. It was the Submariner that got me into watches. (1680, 551x) However, these days, when I see a 16610, especially a non-lug hole version, I can't help but think-- 'meh, another Sub, nothing special. Conversely, when I (rarely) catch a glimpse of a vintage Sub, my attention is peaked, and my response is cool, kick ass! Similar with other brands. If I see a Jaeger, Vacheron in the wild, I take even more notice, and am more excited. Seeing a Doxa, Ball, Sinn, Ebel, Bremont, even Longines in the wild makes me more excited than a 16610. To By-Tor's point on the 16710 (GMT), now that is a bit more evolutionary in my opinion, and I still think cool when I see one. The 3135 movement GMT feature and slim design and the sapphire crystal seems right at home on it. Design aside, could there be too much of a good thing out there. Sort of like the iPhone, seems like everyone has one these days and thus-- nothing special. If the roads were suddenly flooded with people driving Ferrari's, would they be less relevant as a product? Keep the conversation coming. When you a see a 16610 in the wild you think _______ ? Do you think a 16610 will ever be as collectable as the Acrylic versions? (Not in my opinion, high volume produced, consistant (less variation) and more surviving. Will probably remain a used $4000 watch.)

Just curious. I see 16610's everywhere these days. Actually, I see MORE 16610's in my city, and in airports, than I do Seiko's. Also, from a REP perspective, REPS have become so good that at arm's length I am having trouble discerning a quality rep from a gen. Have we finally reached the point "Who has the best Sub (16610)" is old hat? Passe', Boring? "Ohh look, another business traveler wearing a 16610..." Personally, I see a 16610 in the wild these days and think _____________________________... Thoughts? Fill in the blank.

dd if=/dev/sda of=/dev/sdb bs=4096 conv=notrunc,noerror This will clone the entire drive, including MBR (and therefore bootloader), all partitions and data. notrunc or 'do not truncate' maintains data integrity by instructing dd not to truncate any data. noerror instructs dd to continue operation, ignoring all input errors. Default behavior for dd is to halt at any error. bs=4096 sets the block size to 4k, an optimal size for hard disk read/write efficiency and therefore, cloning speed. Best approach is to boot from a bootable CD/USB and Mount both the original and new drive, and execute "dd" from there. You CAN dd from the live primary, but beware open files or writes going on during the clone. Finally, "dd" will be make the exact copy including the original partition size. You will then need to expand the file system. If you are using UFS than man "growfs", or play with gpart. To recap, dd, gpart/growfs should do the trick.

+1 What Nanuq said. The ONLY "Chain" requirement here is for multi-axle trucks. If you really, really, really will be off road, on fire roads, or LONG un-serviced driveways, a AWD/4WD SUV ~might~ be required for clearance in very deep snow. Otherwise, just grab a Mid-Size FWD car, and inspect the tires.

As our (RWG) moderators have pointed out here, it is NOT their job to intervene on the onesie twosie transactions that go awry, often due to poor communications/expectations. While they keep an eye out, and have our back for scammers-- if you choose to do a backdoor deal, do so at your own risk. If an established member, or member in good standing "drops a hint", or does a deal out of PM, I fail to see the harm in it. It happens on the majority of forums GEN & REP.

Well done. Very informative.

Wow. For putting it "out there" that you would be parting out the watch and selling parts. HARSH. Backdoor sales are probably more the norm than most people think.

I use them as intended. I make sure most are water resistant to cover running water, or swimming and use them in all conditions. However, I also like the "well maintained / serviced look". In my opinion, there should be a natural ebb and flow of New/Serviced looking to getting Worn-- only to be serviced again and looking fresh to getting worn again. Swapping Acrylic Rolex crystals is a breeze, as is using PolyWatch. If I can't read the dial through scratches, it is time for some attention. I think most people apply the same logic to auto maintenance. I don't keep a cracked windshield on my car, or let my tires wear down to cords. The same reason, I keep my car washed and waxed. For me, this same principle of 'taking care' comes into play with my watches.

I live in CO. Depending on the time of year, mountain driving is NOT BAD. We joke about our "Solar Snow Plows" (at 5280' and much much higher in the mountains, snow on the roads actually does NOT last too long if the Sun comes out, and the plows are doing their job. The intense Sun melts away a lot of snow on the major roadways.) ((Don't forget your Sunscreen, Intense UV up in the mountain sun. It is not uncommon to come home from Skiing with severe Sun & Wind burn)) There are services like the "Colorado Mountain Express", a Van Service that hits many of the ski towns or popular mountain towns. DON'T GET SUCKED into believing a SUV is better. The MAJORITY of off-the road, accidents I have witnessed, in the mountains, are CRASHED SUV's. SUV drivers think they are immortal for some reason, take more risks, go to fast, and FAIL TO STOP ON ICE when the 5hit hits the fan. Nearly all accidents involve ICE on the roads, and simple physics tells us a larger, heavier vehicle regardless of how many 'drive' wheels it has is harder to slow/control/stop on ICE. My personal "Ski" vehicle / Mountain Car is an VW Golf. Two wheel drive, with 4 snow tires. I have NEVER had an issue, and go anywhere the 'average / light SUV' goes. I shake my head at the MANY SUV's that are off the road when I go Skiing. Fact: If you are sticking to the interstate, state routes, we have snow plows that also spray Ice melt, and drop pulverized granite for traction, in addition to the Sun. The roads will most likely be WET. Properly timing your drive to avoid a major snow storm / blizzard is all you need to do. IF renting a car, check the tires for good tread and a M&S (Mud and Snow) rating. Rental Cars will be All Season (which will be adequate if you follow my advice on timing your drive). Front Wheel Drive, or, if you must, a "Light SUV" is the way to ago. Avoid the rear wheel drive American Muscle Car styles. ICE is the enemy up there.

Favorite that I own: