Ronin

BAU - Business as Usual.

Quick question. Is this "app" that costs $.$$ really any better then just surfing the forum(s) for free with Safari on an iProduct? I am content with Safari on an iPad, just wondering if I am missing out?

If it glued or loctited, you will break the stem. To be safe, if the crown is stainless: i usually soak it in some Goo Gone/Goof Off to help disolve glue and remove grime. I then heat it with a soldering iron for about a minute. Then unscrew it. Never broke a stem. Probabably overkill, but better safe then sorry

Anyone know what year/model this is?

Excellent write up! So why is the 5.3 crown out? Is there too much space between the REP case lugs?

You have a PM.

Wow! Came out great.

Keep 'em coming!

Not sure adding a hack feature makes the movement any better. My Seiko's and early Rolex's do not hack.... Deep down, I have a feeling the Miyota is a more consistent, higher quality controlled item. I have an 8215 in a Rep Sub from 1995. Never serviced, ran about +8, and still runs if I give it a nudge. YMMV.

Time flys. Just think any watches you owned or bought back then are probably now due for a service!

You can always go with the movement that the DG2813 (A21J) is copied from-- the reliable Japanese Miyota (Citizen) 8215. Hands should be a direct swap.

1. True, but that is a given in this hobby. As to your original premise-- attempting to TELL a TD (who we don't know) to "make sure NOT to declare it as XYZ with Value N" is sure to result in MORE confusion, and probably the exact OPPOSITE of what you are asking since English is not usually their primary language. 2. Maybe... 3. No. Protecting yourself is priority #1. However there are ways to hint or be geographically vague. We are now 31 posts deep in this thread. Sorry, but I fail to see any value other than a generic "be careful" that goes without saying. My advice is to post a generic review, or have someone else do it on your behalf, in the TD's sub-forum with some vague notion of shipping-declaration issues. We can then put 2 and 2 together and hopefully garner some useful information out of this situation.

Wow. $21,500.... Beauty though!

Since one of the goals of this forum is to help members avoid such problems, it is my opinion that; 1.) You should share what TD this is. This is also why each TD has a reviews section. It is relevant. 2.) What country are we talking about?* *note to all members-- it is very helpful if you update your profile with some semblance of your geographic whereabouts. I am not suggesting you post any geographic info that makes you uncomfotable. Feel free to be generic (i.e. CONUS, USA, EU, etc.). This not only helps with threads like these but in the FS section. Thanks.

True, but a 5513 has Crown Guards and are a dime-a-dozen.

Good points. If doing an All-Gen "Build-Up" I suppose you could still come in around 50% off the going rate of that particular GEN model. (5508/6536). ...to take it a step further, would you ever try and profit from you talents with something like this? Keep the discussion going.

Brilliant!!!! Just sent the image to my wife.

You can ship them "empty". You can not have them in "checked" baggage. Regular lighters are to be IN-CABIN when traveling with it. You can NEVER have a "Torch Flame" Lighter (the blue flame concentrated type that sounds like a small welding flame). This is not to say, that even a empty one, if X-Ray'd would not get pulled and into someones pocket. HTH,

Ok, I am a BIG fan SuperFrankens, and even All GEN "Build-Up's". I presently have 2 and am working on a third that falls into this category. Now for the million dollar question. (no pun intended). Would you pay $$$$ for a dial like this when some of the dial's coming from Yuki/InGod/NDT are super good, and would generally pass the arms length (non-Macro-Photo) inspection? Here is the eBay link to a 5508 dial. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120891799033 I ask this question as a "builder". I ~could~ see a reason to purchase this IF you have an original all GEN 5508 with B&P that somehow has a badly damaged dial. But, would YOU ever build watch with this expensive of a dial? Curious,

Yes, but did you have "eyes on" it regularly over its final hours. If I were a betting man, accurate time-keeping went out the window around hour 50.... It is not uncommon to have a watch run beyond its reserve, but accurate timekeeping is probably constrained to its published numbers. They simply do not run spot on, and then stop cold. It is a slow gradual death so to speak.

The ICHS actually is more prevelant because it is more reliable. Seek out Zigmeister and By-Tors posts regarding the CHS time bomb. While I am sure there are 'some' fans here of the 42mm ExpII, I ~think~ the majority feel it is an abomination within the Rolex current line up. Maxi and unbalanced. The lovers love, and the haters hate it. Good luck,

Not true, date/no-date does make a difference with the seconds hand. As mentioned above the pinion length is different. To summarize. Hour and Minute hands are the same. Seconds hand from a no-date (5512/5513) will NOT work on a 1680/1655/1665/1675...

I have a 177 case, all I need is the dial and hands. Were you able to procure them loosely?