Ronin

@chubbchubb, nice Sinn. I need one of those... Today: Homebrew:

Pre-SEL perhaps. I have seen a myrid of white EXPII whites from 1999 forward and none are "True Black". Is your dial a cream colored? Blackening might also be oxidization on an older dial. Can you post pics of yours?

Nanuq, Are there any Black Lung SeaRamblers out there that you are aware of?

Are you sure you don't have a BK Crown/Tube on the noob? That would explain it. Same with some of the MBW stuff. I have a Clark "Gen Spec" 703 tube here, that will accept both a crimped 703 Crown and a Monoblock 704... ???

Just saw the 704 monoblock like in Ubi's pic on the watch (dots farther away) on a BRAND NEW 14060M @ Ben Bridge Jewelers. I am guessing RSC will be moving onto these on future sub service. They are backwards compatible with the 703 tubes. Here is the same on my 1680 build:

You can regulate it like a Miyota/DG. In short, do NOT move the lever on yours with the BIG single dot, move only the the arm with the two dots. CLOSER together = Slower, Farther Apart should be Faster. Stolen Content Below showing the CONCEPT on a Miyota BUT MIRRORED of your ETA: Here is a closeup of the Miyota. As you can see by the illustration there is a bar that is moved in either direction to change the watches timing. Moving the bar in a counter clockwise closer direction (towards A) will slow the movement and by moving the bar in a clockwise wider direction (towards B will speed up the movement. There are two things with this movement that make it a bit difficult to regulate. The first is that there is only a very small notch on the other side near the +/- © to show your changes, so you either have to judge the movement of the bar compared to the jewel to its right or visualize a line to see where it falls on the +/- that I have illustrated with the yellow line. The Second is that the bar is VERY touchy. Just a small change of the bar can throw the movement off by minutes instead of seconds, where the selita/ETAs are a bit easier with the screw. Below is an example of the extreme changes you can run into.

Remember GEN is NOT Black, but charcoal/gun metal... GEN

That looks awesome R!

Nice. Are those Maxi hands on the 14060...

Well Done!

Cable Modem.

I have taken to video documenting everything, and using tamper proof tape. One continuous shot, etc. Signature confirmation. And USPS proof of acceptance, and a photo of it at the PO. That way if the buyer accuses me of not sending the item, I have more than the average proof. Excessive and paranoid on my part...yes. Based on you receiving empty box, sounds like it is time to start video documenting the receipt of items. I would hope, PP would consider such evidence in a claim.

I just spent 8 days in Vegas, and when I saw the title of your post I thought it said: "Help with Strippers name"...

Sounds like something is amiss in the 28x6 GMT Modification. Long short, you need to pull the movement, hands, dial, and poke around. If you are not capable, some other members here are.

It might not be the hand but a missing tension washer between the 24hr gear and the hour/dial. When you manually set it, you are engaging a different drive mechanism. The fact the hand moves when in that mode, tells me it is not the hand.

Well Done!

My hands and feet were sweating watching that.

Here is a video of my DG3804, that: Dropped into a GEN Case. Even the datewheel aligns with GEN Dials out-of-the-box. No overlay used. (True, not silver, but felt the "serviced DW replacement look worked). DG3804 PRO's: Drops into Gen Case with slightly sanded Stilty ring or Yuki 1575 adapterDatewheel aligns with Gen DialDatewheel mechanism easily modifiable (Stock white/black numbers can be sanded off revealing silver area for overlay decal)Mercedes Hands readily available. A Gen GMT hand could be adapted.Slow Beat 21.6. (ETA 2836 mods are high beat / wrong, and NO BETTER as it is not a factory ETA, and never Swiss)If it fails / dies, R&R it for under $30.

OMFG! Can you simply say VARIANCE in manufacturing! Maybe TH was making Rotors one way for 4 months, then changed mid-stream. Maybe their machine that machines the rotor broke, and they outsourced a few. Maybe the ETA 7750 "Kits" supplied to TH for their in-house finishing contained blue screws during the 10th month of the year. Christ, go look at Gen Rolex dials from one quarter of 1972 and the last quarter of 1972. One has R O LEX, and one has ROLEX. Would you take your car back because one has red spark plug wires, and the other one you saw on the lot has black? At the end of the day, isn't the rest of the watch still a REPLICA?

Yes we are, they are the same thing. Scroll up to the GEN Cal 16 posted. See the 7750 and ETA logo stamped on the Gen Cal 16. Given the price paid, you got a deal either way.

Simple, functional, looks good. Only complaint is the whimpy crown. A more robust crown would make it

Your version is not interchangeable with Gen parts. The tension wire you describe can sometimes be a PITA. Trial and error getting it back in the right spot and in its groove. In a worst case scenario, you may even need to install it with the insert removed, and glue the insert in after a sucessful bezel install being super careful not to glue it to the case or crystal. HTH

The ETA/Valjoux 7750 is like an Aircooled Volkswagen engine. Tons of variations over the years. The criteria the OP used to discount the movement and discredit Andy simply does not hold water. This whole thing seems silly. If the I received a GEN 7750 with proper Rotor for the price paid, and if it keeps good time, I would be thrilled. I think I need to side with Andy on this one.

Is it me, or does Jean Alesi's subdial spacing look off. 7750?