jmb

Lo, thanks, Bro.  Yeah, hands can be tricky especially without proper hand-pressers.

I am prepping a 1016 case and the new owner sent me a new Rolex crown for fitment to a new tube.  No problem but looking at the crown makes me wonder if it is in fact new.  It arrived in a sealed plastic "bubble" but the shaft (?) has pretty deep scratches on it.  I would have thought Rolex QC would be better than this.

What is the collective's opinion?

I wondered who would be the first with that jab!

Less than a month and already have a big gouge on the crystal.  I'm very hard on watches...

No close-ups because y'all will make fun of my lume job.

I finally got around to building me one a couple weeks ago.  I sold my Explorer several years ago intending to build another and kept running out of cases before I built me one.  This time I built me one first!  Guess it's been 5 years or so since I had one...

PM me...

Suh-weet!

M, you can upload pics to the forum relatively painlessly.  Also check with whoever you have your internet service through as often your account will have some web space included.

I just got in some more "raw" cases and will start machining tomorrow.  This may be my last batch as I really would like to retire, but I've said that before...

Auto - Yeah, I had to build myself one so had to call one back home!

Hmmm,  too small lug holes, lug profile is too fat, and the bezel is a tad too tall.

I think the plan is going to be that HWA will sand the paint off the ID of the bezel and see how it looks.  If it looks like $hit then I'll reduce the ID a bit and repaint next time I have a rifle to do.

16 hours ago, hwa said:

Otherwise, you'd have a blacked-out watch with some silver showing

A, I think we did discuss, after the fact, whether having a silver "ring" around the crystal might actually look kinda slick.  I suppose you could sand the ID of the bezel and see if you like it.  If not I could shave off a little to compensate for the paint thickness and repaint.  I'm not sure if it's because the paint is really "thick" but the margin between a too loose bezel and a cracked crystal is only a couple thousandths of an inch.

N

13 hours ago, hwa said:

but wasn’t catching much enthusiasm about a re-paint!

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

So, you are gonna try to shame me into a repaint? 🤑  If you nick it up I can add it to the pile for next AR-15 lower I paint.  Not that big a deal just have to sweet-talk wife.gov into letting me borrow the oven and it usually "costs" me something...😝

Not my build, just the case. 

This is the only picture I have of the complete watch, customer sent me a wrist shot when it was done.  Very small and little detail but it looks bitchin' to say the least.

LMAO...

I have had a speck of dirt between a couple teeth on the second wheel cause this in ETA movement...

I did not build this out.  From what I was told the builder just sanded the OD of the crystal a little.  I use regular Dura Coat on all of my gun builds but after talking with a manager at LCW he was of the opinion that the Dura Bake was a little more scratch resistant. 

1 hour ago, automatico said:

Hot Coat is Cool.

 

Did you ever make any '1016' cases using 2836 spec cases?

No.  I suppose I could but one of the whole reasons for this was to get a case with more or less correct crown position.  I have some 2836 cases and the only difference I see is the crown position.

I did the parts and sent them to customer.  Probably will never see detailed pics of finished project.

One of our Brothers bought a 1016 case set from me a couple months ago and wanted to do something different so we decided to give it a go with a matte black finish with Duracoat Hot Coat.  It is a bake on firearm finish and if it turns out to be durable might be an option for some folks not wanting to find a DLC shop.

Oh well, guess that's better than somebody calling me an ol' Fossil! ;D

Hmmm, trying to decide whether, or not, to be insulted... 

I agree wid da Griz's homie.

3 hours ago, Sogeha said:

So what you are saying Minty, is stay dumb?

Probably good advice.  Most people would be more than satisfied (and have a fatter wallet) with their out of the box $150 rep if it wasn't for this joint!

R,

You must have one of the early cases, they had a smaller dial seat.  The later cases will take up to a 29mm dial, lots of play but personally I like the old ones better.  When I build these I use the "low" ETA dial seat/spacer, place it on the movement, drop on the dial washer, then glue the dial to the spacer making sure I keep it centered.

Also, don't you mean the case is 28.3mm"  Seems it would be kinda hard to stuff a 27.9mm dial in a 27.3mm hole!

Justin B.