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Resistor

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Posts posted by Resistor

  1. Make sure that you include the helium that are down because it can completely unscrew. I lost my helium valve like that and it is really annoying to replace.

    Does the watch keep good time?

    Yes. Loctite on the He valve goes a long way toward retention. Also, if the case is drilled all the way through for the He valve, a little bit of epoxy can be used to seal the hole for water-tightness.
  2. I'd personally like to see an good one with a closed back, haven't saw one for ages. I don't have an open back but here's a pic of mine when I visited a local watch smith for a repair.

    582BCD80-A75D-4436-8A2C-BCF2B7C80677.jpg

    You can swap a sapphire back onto your 3570. It requires a different movement ring, since the closed caseback Speedies have the anti-magnetic cover between the movement and caseback. I much prefer the classic man on the moon caseback and will be leaving mine alone.
  3. I'm sure you're all familiar with how poorly the end links fit on the rep Bond bracelet. By this, I mean that the bracelet is not allowed to smoothly wrap around the wrist -- the square end of the first link juts out, creating a terrible look. Has anyone tried to install gen end links between a rep case and bracelet? I'm wondering if these are more curved and provide a smoother contour around the wrist.

    I have an old WBK Bond GMT which suffers from this problem and I have a franken 2531.80 on the way which will almost certainly be the same. My gen 2254 was purchased as a head only and I tried the rep Bond bracelet for about 2 minutes, but the end link/first link fit drove me nuts.

    It would be awesome if gen end links solve this problem. Anyone try this?

  4. The A2836 works just fine for me. I'd avoid the Miyota, even though it's probably a more reliable movement longterm, it often suffers from jerky second hand motion due to the weight of the PO hand.

    As always, steer clear of "Swiss" movements because you're going to get ripped off or receive a rusty old salvaged ETA.

  5. Not sure when I'll return home to take pics, but working from memory:

    Rep:

    Breitling Blackbird (old brushed model)

    Gen:

    Speedmaster Pro

    Seiko 7A28-7049 "Speedy"

    Citizen 67-9313 mechanical flyback

    Victorinox Chrono Classic

    Citizen Skyhawk Blue Angels Atomic

    Citizen Calibre 2100 (black dial and white dial)

    Citizen Skyhawk Blue Angels non-atomic

    Sure I'm forgetting some here. I'm lately tending to shy away from chronos due to servicing cost and reliability. Just not worth the hassle to me anymore.

  6. Exactly like me i should hold a break too not the forum just not enter the sales forum its like the sale section is crack

    I can be like hmm im happy with my watches 5 min in sales you find that have to have watch and buy it same thing next day

    Im going crazy here in Kuwait for gens because of the Nice Price Got offered a gen dssd used for 6480us that is really cheap

    The non-sales forums are still dangerous! You can just be reading threads then BAM, someone posts a pic of a watch that you just can't resist. Then it's off to the sales area you go!
  7. WU is fine, as long as it's a forum-recognized TD. I've never used it and have bought using only PP, but I wouldn't hesitate if the dealer is well regarded and reliable.

    In regards to the watch - the noob CrPO is a fantastic piece with a reliable movement. Me personally, I steer well clear of modified (or even stock) A7750 movements. Just too much trouble.

  8. Here comes the shocker guys i really do only collect the best of the reps but i do buy alot of gens i Got four reps now and the rest is gens

    Rolex omega brietling tag heuer Mostly rolex

    I wish it only was reps my problem was in but with gens there are no need to investigate it i just buy wifey hates me a little ;)

    Same here. I have only four or five reps (only one is worn with any frequency, and I just got it a few weeks ago). I've somehow managed to buy two 2254.50 SMPs in the past two months. One of which was traded away so I got another, which I received just yesterday. This is [censored]!
  9. These forums fuel our bad habit of searching for and buying watches. I took a self imposed break from WUS and RG for a couple of years and found myself more than happy to wear just one or two watches. All of the others simply sat in my box in hibernation and my wallet stopped hemorrhaging.

    For some stupid reason, I decided to check out one of the forums and in doing so, I stopped by the sales area. One of the first things I saw was a watch that I "had to have"...I've now spent thousands in the few months since I started browsing the forums. Time for another long break, I think

  10. Always strikes me as a really odd thing to do to a watch.... build in a sapphire crystal and the cover it in something that reacts very badly to wear and tear and/or chemicals. Is this how it happens on Gens?

    Kinda reminds me of my Oakley Blades. Lenses tough enough to deflect a shotgun blast but with a plutonite coating that scratches if you just look at it too suddenly or too hard.

    Sometimes. Breitlings seem to be sensitive to this, both because they use double AR on most of their watches and because their AR seems a bit soft. There are many types of AR coatings with different hues and varying hardness.

    I had an old Blackbird re-coated and the replacement AR was clear, with a faint greenish tint vs the typical Breitling purple, and it seems harder in the sense that it doesn't scratch nearly as easily.

  11. Do you have a design or are you going to need the machine shop to design + manufacture? It's going to be very pricey to have one-off components made, moreso if CAD work is required. Design, tooling, setup, and 316ss material are going to cost a boatload.

    I'd try to look around for machine shops in your area. You'll have better luck if there are major manufacturers near you which are supplied by smaller machine job shops. One in my area comes to mind and I can check and provide a website/phone number if needed.

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