ratpatrolteam01

Is it possible for to get a dial without any branding that fits the Explorer I ETA (2824 movement) rep, and get a non-branded Crown? What would be the dial diameter for an Explorer I? Would these 2 work? http://cgi.ebay.com/Plain-Explorer-Watch-Dial-DIY-Project-/160512269699?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item255f46dd83#ht_1322wt_906 http://cgi.ebay.com/Explorer-Submariner-Style-Crown-Swiss-ETA-movement-/160457035555?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item255bfc0f23#ht_2178wt_754 same site, but not ebay. http://www.rafflestime.com/servlet/the-13/Explorer-Submariner-Style-Crown/Detail http://www.rafflestime.com/servlet/the-112/Plain-Explorer-Watch-Dial/Detail **Would I have to apply lume to the dial, or is it applied already? Thanks guys.

+1 on the thinkpad. Dell Latitude and HP Probook or Elitebooks are great too.

oh ok thanks guys. because i have a rep with an eta 2824 clone movement, and I just got it serviced + regulated by the member here. He said it looks clean, and it has been serviced prior to him. I was just wondering if the metals are weaker/likely to break from stripped gears or something compared to the "genuine" ETAs.

I am thinking of buying an ETA 2824 Movement. Are they really Swiss ETA? A user profile in ebay says it's sending from Switzerland, but that might not mean anything. there is also wholesale990 in ebay, and ofrei.com I have a Clone ETA 2824, and I might pick up one of these just in case it craps out in the future. (BTW what's the difference between the clones and the "genuine/swiss" ETAs?, accuracy, reliability, ??) Thank you

Wow, that's amazing thanks for the post!. (It looks like I have the same one that this reviewer has, I got ETA movement as well). So it looks like the rep has these problems on the actual watch itself not the bracelet: 1. The crystal might be lower than gen. 2. The crown looks less "sharp" (hey, could happen some use with the gen too) and doesn't screw in as close as gen. 3. Superlume 4. the laser etching of crown (but I think the newer explorer I has that) insignificant flaws imo, sounds good to me. thanks so much for everyones help!

i think it's the rep link you need to provide hehe

Yep, I read it and that's where I got all my info from. I'm wondering if they fixed the Link yet (Font I mean for the date wheel). I am interested in the AquaRacer Chronograph. I guess now, it's TH Black AquaRacer Chronograph or TH Black Link (non-brushed) anyone recommend vendors for these?

When I get it back, I'll take photos of it. and as for my band it's a fixed/solid end link not folded. But i'm swapping it out for a black leather band anyway.

they're the same link... o.O

I would have bought that from you + movement :-( thanks for sharing though, never thought it could be even done.

wow, that looks very nice, but it looks like it'll cost too much for me LOL.

oh ok, thanks for explaining. when i get home, i'll see exactly what i have with me. i had the 1st link on hand, i just wanted to know if the one in the 2nd link is more accurate/better than mine. Does anyone know where to get the exact dimensions of these watches?, because the thickness is anywhere from 11mm to 12mm in the internet. (11, 11.35, 11.5, 12mm). idk what is right. just bored and curious plus, I might be replacing the bracelet anyway with a leather one. And as for accuracy, I meant accuracy of the case, crown, glass, face, needles, etc. (So everything minus the bracelet lol) BTW why is Folded better than solid, i thought it was the other way around?

*double post.

Can you post pictures on what you mean by folding vs solid? As for the crown, how could that be different to improve? i mean if someone was really picky what would they say about this? thanks for all the replies. *I can't find any Folded End link pictures, but I did find Solid End Link, I also found hollow end link as well.

What is "BUD" and "SEL" and "EL"... Sorry I am a noob...

How close are these reps compared to gen? Does anyone know or have a list of things that are wrong with this gen? (Font proportion, lume, etc) thanks! I also have a question on regarding this... TrustyTime has 2 models available.. What's the difference between... http://www.yourtrustytime.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_3&products_id=242 and http://www.yourtrustytime.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_3&products_id=6423 it looks like: 1. the 2nd link says 12mm in thickness vs 11.5mm on the first link. 2. The internal parts have different colors. 3. Rotator has Rolex 25 J on it on the 2nd link, while 1st link has none... and the 2nd link, the entire watch looks... a bit weird.. it might be the angles, lighting and/or the pictures themsleves... but I don't know. Anyone care to pitch in? Oh, and the case diameter says 37mm, according to a member factories don't make 37mm cases, it's actually 35.5mm (used by other watch models as well). the 37mm comes from the length of the case + crown (makes sense). (case is documented as 36mm by rolex though, even if it is 35.5mm in gens too). If anyone can double verify, that'd be great. I would like to measure mine, but it's on the move to repairs.

Is this basically flawless? Because it looks like the font has been corrected (I got this incorrect font point from the guide thats been updated in 2007 lol), and the slightly mis-aligned datewheel? What about the non-brushed one, does that have the correct font as well?

I have been in the market for a new rep, and these were my candidates: OM 45mm UPO TH AquaRacer TH Link From looking at reviews/posts of people, it looks like the TH AquaRacer is the most accurate rep out of the box from those 3... the Ultimate planet ocean looks like it needs double AR, (with recently no logo happy feet replacement required), anti-counterfeitting engravings, recessed date wheel window. (If anymore, please mention them). As for TH Link, the incorrect date font on the movement, and slightly misaligned 3 o'clock indicator are the problems.... And for the AquaRacer, it looks like only problem is the crooked/misaligned day/date wheel. And some darker color which could be fixed... Is the TH Link the most accurate replica from this list? or overall? I have looked around and with a list of "fixes" that a rep needs to get, it looks like the TH AquaRacer and Link have the fewest amount... 1. TH AquaRacer 2. TH Link 3. OM UPO 45 Also what color (Black or blue) is the TH Reps more accurate in, the blue or the black? I'm assuming black because blue noted in reviews are always a bit more "violet" than the gens... I don't know what the latest Rolex sub rep needs to have it accurate, but if anyone can pitch in that'd be great. Oh and if anyone could answer this, how close is the Rolex Explorer I in terms of accuracy when compared to gen? (ETA2836 model). If you guys have ANY other suggestions for models that are similar to these, and accurate as these, please let me know! Thank you guys

Thanks guys, shot an email to gkloner

Can anyone point me to the right direction for contacting a person/establishment that is willing to work on my Explorer I rep? I would to have these things done: Priority 1: One of the lume pieces fell on the hour indicators, I would like to have it fit it back in, or have the entire watch relumed Priority 2: Have the watch parts inside disassembled, cleaned, reassembled (ETA2386) Priority 3: Waterproofed Priority 4: Calibrated And can anyone project a rough estimate to get all of these things done? Thank you

Thanks for the explanation TeeJay. I'm going to get it relumed, regulated and I'm going to get it checked for water resistance.

Can you save one of my pictures, make a line on MS Paint or something so I can measure it exactly for you? Thanks! Also, how water-proof are these replicas? My friend said the worst flaw about these replicas are its vulnerability to moisture

Thanks for all the help guys. Next week I'm going to get this watch regulated. EDIT: I tried hand winding the watch... I'm seriously a noob at this soo... this is how it is 1. Unscrew Crown 2. If I spin the crown at this point its "buzzy" i imagine this isn't doing ANYTHING, it's just spinning on its last thread 3. Slightly pull it clicks if i spin nothing happens, very smooth. I imagine this is hand winding the watch. It's extremely smooth. It feels like nothings happening though. 4. Slightly pull it again with another click, the watch stop, if i spin the crown guard, i can control the minute/hour hand Am I doing it right in Step 3? Lol

sry scratch that, i "received" it not "ordered". and it seems the power reserve is very short for mine...

Hello guys, I ordered an ETA Explorer I from Andrew, does anyone know about the power reserve on these things? thanks.