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OiRogers

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Posts posted by OiRogers

  1. Hi, I had the same problem with my UPO so I just opened and realize that the antimagnetic cover wasnt in the right place, so it was easy actyally you should try that. hope you can fix yours.

    On my UPO lite.. the movement clamps and screws had worked loose and gotten into the movement... it worked fine at certain angles... but at other angles ran really slow or just stopped... was an easy fix.

    I like the A-mag cover idea... sounds plausable and missable.

    Failing the obvious... if you have the ETA version... get it serviced. If you have the Lite... but an ETA movment and Gen hands and swap.

  2. The 4th Gen is still awesome rep. It only has a bad pearl and shitty bracelet/clasp. I wish the makers would "finish" the smaller version.

    While I love my UPO, I still think the smaller PO is more balanced and better looking watch.

    I agree with almost everything you posted there By-Tor... my 4th gen had a great clasp and a decent bracelet... much nicer than my ETA UPO.... but about on par with my UPO Lite....

    All three suffer from the slightly off pearl.

    And I agree... the orange bezel is more balanced on the 42mm... the black bezel/orange numerals looks great in the 45mm version.

    And interesting thought on the crystals...l've never pondered that mod.... I'm intrigued.

  3. Would this Omega Seamaster Professional 300m Titanium for $1075 a good buy? Purchased from a web store therefore

    consider a gray market watch but it has serial number intact and reference card and box set.

    Not a bad price at all... I'm assuming Quartz at that price point?... (nothing wrong with that...still a stunning watch).

    Never been replicated... and I'm guessing it won't be anytime soon.... shame. I'd buy one :whistling:

    and in re: OP... I just recently acquired a Speedy Moon... after much deliberation, the flaws of the reps just said "buy the gen" to me... so the question is now: What next?...

    Depending on many variables... A nice used pam 186 or possibly a new 177 would be my next dream watches that are somewhat achieveable... time will tell.

  4. thanks for the reply.. yeh i need them tools which i havent got.. thats probably why i couldnt remove it.. i tried using a small (smallest) screwdriver it does fit in the whole.. but for some reason it wouldnt move the pins at all.. i might have to get these tools for next time :) thanks guys

    The Pin removers that FxrAndy posted offer much more leverage than you could produce with the screwdriver... they work great.

    When I got my first PO (4th gen 42mm)... i resized it using a thumbtack, a 20 oz. framing hammer, needle nose pliers and a board with a cut in it to allow the pin to drift down... I know my pliers left marks on the pin and I bent the pins pulling em out... (only got about 1/4th of the pin out with the tack/hammer)... straightened em back out with the board and hammer... reinstalled with the hammer....

    Somehow I miracled some monkeys out my butt and didn't scratch the bracelet at all... and its held up fine.... I did however remove the head from the bracelet before my redneck watchsmithing.

    And strangely enough... two days later my pin-pushers arrived from Birdman... but there was no way I could have waited that long.

  5. Well, we area bout to find out... I just ordered a Gen dial for my UPO 45

    Keep us posted... I'm seriously considering this mod on one of my UPOs... Gen hands done already.

    And @ FxrAndy... should fit the "lite" then as well... the dials on my ETA and my "Lite" upo are the same size.... and I had no idea the base of the Co-Ax is a 2892... learn something new everyday. :thumbsupsmileyanim:

  6. i did this method one time so far... and found an additional charge on my statement... "overseas credit transaction useage" or something... 5$... not too bad... just a small suprise.

    Just an FYI... some cards do charge this fee. Found out it was due to the Mastercard I used being through my local bank... my "national brand" credit cards don't have that fee.

  7. I bought a PAM187 and was not informed the screws were stripped and the pearl was cracked. It was very cheap so I dropped the seller a mail and left it at that as it was VERY cheap and I was getting a new case for it anyway. I believe disclosure should be a gentlemanly thing to do.

    If thats the 187 i'm thinking of... you beat me to the punch by about three minutes... sorry to hear that it arrived in less than pristine shape... (this is the one with the missing bezel marker from about 6+ monthes ago right?)

    I've finally sourced a 187 of my very own... just awaiting it arrival... it appears to be taking the overland on mule back route from Thailand to the CONUS... (well ok... not that slow... I'm just excited.) ... I sure hope mules can swim, cause the overland route is flooded with something called the Pacific Ocean now...

    And @ OP... I agree whole heartedly.

    I frequently peruse the users For Sale forum... often purchasing watches... and only rarely disappointed.... and too date have had only one really bad experience with what I consider to have been a totally unsucessful and unresolved deal.

    I agree that sellers should be upfront about any and all flaws... no matter how minor. Sellers should also be willing to answer questions... I pretty much always ask who the original dealer was, its info I'd like to know. And a few watches I've recieved have been other than described... not because the seller lied outright... but because they truely didn't know the answer to my question and just answered "Yep" to my questions... luckly these have been resolved by partial or full refunds/returns.

    I believe that full disclosure is in the best intrests of the community as a whole... we know that when we buy a used fake watch, it may very well have some issues... many times I'm willing to deal with those issues, some I'd rather not... i'd much rather know what "issues" i'm getting myself into prior to opening the package... and imho, the truth is the best way to have a successful sale/trade.

  8. It looks like it was pulled from a pocketwatch and put into a wristwatch case.

    Same thought here... that is an old omega pocketwatch dial and movement.

    I'm curious though... usually the movement had the crown at 12 and the seconds at 6.... are the seconds still running on this watch? ... and if so... how?

    Thats why our current pams have crown at 3 and seconds at 9... rotated a pocket watch movement 90 degrees.

    And overall Yeesh... recased Dial and Movement into the worst of the worst pam rep cases.

    Bet the dude will make about 100usd from the sale if he does sell it... old Omega pocket watches can be had for 150-200usd if you look around.

  9. I doubt the dial will just drop in so save your money.

    Anyway, reference of the 45mm PO is 2900.50.91

    I wouldn't be too suprised if it proved to fit fine... the gen dial fit the 4th gen 42mm size PO perfectly.

    I still patiently (somewhat) await someone else to try it first though :whistling:

    Anyone with a Gen 45mm out there willing to disassemble and measure dials outer Diameter and the distance from dial center to datewheel opening?

    If we could get those measurements... it would easy to find out... measure a rep dial against it.

  10. Grey market = Omega won't warranty (in most cases)... warranty work is through the grey market seller.

    Many grey market sellers only cover the original owner so you might not be covered.

    Research the site where the gent purchased the watch originally... should tell you their policies and if they'll cover you as a second (or subsequent) owner.... you'll probably need the reciept from the purchase to get the work done in either case.

    Omega will still service/repair the watch... just at your cost as long as the serial number is intact and the watch is gen.

    Ensure the serial number is intact though... Most Gen service centers won't touch an "altered serial number" watch with a ten foot pole.

    *Edit*... just to add that I agree with Deltahoe (following post) re: not worrying about warranty work... let The Zigmeister do the honors.

    As far as resale value?... it drops significantly. Look at the used market of gens with full documentation, boxes, original reciept, stamped by AD card/warranty paperwork and then look at Gens with nothing but a cardboard box... all that paperwork and stuff that is pretty useless in the repworld is worth quite a bit with its gen counterpart.

  11. Look at the second photo again Pugs... the steering column in older cars IS essentially that 18" spike you mentioned... they didn't "break away" like the modern designs do.... essentially act as a spear with a wheel on em for the driver.

    Also an issue with the older design... in a headon crash the engine doesn't drop to the pavement like in modern cars... it lands in the lap of the driver.... I'd be willing to bet that the engine and transmission caused a good portion of the drivers injuries in that wreck.... notice that the "drivers compartment" (area around the pedals mainly) collapsed.... another thing that modern cars have going for em... they break apart into many many pieces... but the area where the driver/passengers sit usually remains fairly intact.

    As someone who appreciates older cars for their designs... (beauty vette there Predfan.. the hardtop is a wonderful thing)... I know that for oldercars that are intended to be driven there are retrofit seatbelt kits that attach to the seat mounting brackets.

  12. Too bad the Ti/ss bracelet is no longer available.. that was an awesome pairing .. this must be like doing a rep that is supposed to be Platinum .. still i am tempted to purchase it just for the "look" .. thanks again rolli for posting the Tantalium.

    Beautiful watch Rolli... The Ti and the Blue hands... what a combo. A tantalium series pam is climbing on my wish list... its nearing the top now.

    And I'll second Lanikai's comment on the Ti/SS bracelet... when they were available, I didn't particularly care for pams and as a result didn't buy one. Now I'm kicking myself, hard. Daily. :o

    I'd love to see someone (Puretime... you reading this?) start making em again. A Ti/SS bracelet on the market again and I'd buy one today... prolly go ahead and get a Tantalium pam at the sametime.

    Oh... and if anyone has a Ti/SS bracelet they're looking to part with... PM me. (...shot in the dark, snowballs chance in heck)

  13. There was another thread on this a couple of weeks ago, 90% of people had had no problems what so ever.

    As FxrAndy stated... another thread recently covered this very topic...

    I'll rehash my PO experiences for you...

    4th gen... waterproof for swimming after putting silicon on the caseback seal

    UPO eta... waterproof for swimming... only tightened caseback and crowns

    UPO Lite... see above.

    Its a pretty well made rep. Only way to know for sure is try.

  14. I'll second Repaustria's idea...

    If the ETA is available as an option, for a reasonable fee... I'll tend to go ETA.

    But if Asian is the only available... It doesn't slow me down at all.

    In the 7750 department... as long as the asian is 28.8k version I'm all over it. ETA would be nice.. but too damn expensive for a rep IMHO. I just avoid the 21.6k bph asian version.

  15. I've got both an ETA and Lite UPO... I've got to say I'm pretty thrilled with the UPO... I've had no issues at all with the ETA version... My Lite had a minor issue with the movement holder clamps working loose (easily fixed, and easily prevented).

    I'd have no quams at all about recommending the UPO Lite to anyone who's still lacking a PO in the 45mm size.... its well worth the price.

  16. Thats a great combo you've chosen TeeJay..

    I've got a few of those Omega buckles in my parts bin already... whats the lug width of the x33?... I'll have to start looking for a strap.

    And Please keep us (me) posted on the dealings with Jay... I await with baited breath and clenched wallet.

  17. Well... sadly that settles the question of which HBB I was going to get... the answer is now None.

    I'd been struggling with my 300-350usd limit on rep price... now I know I put that limit in place for a reason... for 500usd one can source a pretty decent used gen with some footwork.

    If our dealers were to go back to the factory and up the quality of this rep quite a bit... I'd be tempted... but still that price is harsh.

    Kinda like the PS3 I guess.. I'd love to pick one up... but the entry fee is way too much to be worth it.

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