bklm1234

I used to have a gen GST Ti. I can't verify now but I remember it has a light blue tint when looked at at an angle and it has very little surface reflection like my AR coated glasses. I could be wrong.

Bugs me that there's no definitive answer as to how to get TW Best. Everybody talks elusively. What's the deal? Hopefully Ruby can really do it. That's what she said in her store post.

http://replica-watch.info/forum/viewtopic....09&start=15

I used watchbandrenew which has diff grid no. papers, from 30 microns, to 15, 9, 3, 2, 1. I used 9, then 3, 2, 1 but I can't regain the mirror finish, high gloss, but not quite mirror as original. It's a base luminor rep. Any suggestion, cape cod, dremell? BTW watchbandrenew, $10 for base kit, (at watchbandrenew@yahoo.com) is great for satin brushed polishing. I used for my sub rep. Use 30 micron for deeper scratches (can't handle real deep scratches though), finish off with 15 micron. Perfect.

May I ask how much it was incl. shipping?

$300 shipping included.

The lume lasts through the night, quite bright, no problem there.

'Oh my god' is my reaction. It looks much better in person. It has that same elegant, high-class, high quality feel as the gen I spotted some guy wearing at Costco. In fact, it's after that incident when I started researching where to get a homage. I feel comfortable getting a rep (reps) and I know where to get them now. The davidsen's fit and finish totally rivals the gen. For those who bought or are buying a branded davidsen, you don't need to worry about getting picked out. There's no way someone will doubt its authenticity. The high polish is mirror like and the gloss gives a very expensive feel. The AR sapphire has the exact same blueish tint as the real thing. I'll let you know if the lume will last through the night. It doesn't look as bright as my other watch which has SL but I'll see. I have the Swiss movement. It has a very sure feel and it clicks as I wind it and I know right away when it's fully wound. You don't have to worry about over-winding because there's a very sure feedback. I hope the CN 6497 is nearly as good. the CG level is a snug-fit and it locks the crown tight. There is no wobbling of the crown. I was given a generic, decent band which is reasonable because I ordered a non-branded. It took about 1 1/2 week for the watch to get to California in a small but secure box. This opens a flood gate to my wallet and I'm gonna be in trouble. I want more davidsens, I want more davidsens, ...

I just got one and it's bad quality. Don't waste your money. Don't be another sucker like me. I'll post pics.

The crown on the gen wasn't wobbly at all. In fact the overall finish and quality on the watch is better than that of my gen Explorer II, very smooth case and links, the crystal (I remember that's a light blue tint when looking at it at an angle so likely to be AR coated).

I owned the genuine GST Ti. It stopped on me one morning (woke up and saw it's telling the wrong time). I wore it all the time and thought that wasn't acceptable. I sold it in a big hurry. It's probably too impulsive on my part. It's a beautiful watch. Either I was unlucky to get a one in a thousand defective IWC or sometimes a perfectly good movement can act up. I kind of regret selling it because IWC doesn't make it anymore. I could have had it checked or serviced. I think the GST Ti is the best looking chrono, beating even the Daytona. I'm glad somebody else is still making that watch :-)

Don't see why not- The Radiomir 8 Days has an Asian auto in it. All you need is one really big spacer

Oh, and perhaps a slightly deeper caseback to accomodate the rotor...

Do I need a new crown too?

I'm thinking of getting a Radiormir 210 but I want to make it an automatic. Besides I agree screw-down crown is not practical for hand-wound. What does it take to fit a 2836 into it?

can you post some crown guard pics, i.e. shoot from the side?

It looks to me Wo-mart's, http://www.wo-mart.com/product_info.php?ma...products_id=525, and Josh's, http://perfect-clones.com/rlyms10001-roles...712-p-1899.html, (can't find a pic for PT's) have the date window too far right. Eddielee's, http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=1871, and Trusty's http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=3104, look correct. Do you think so, Ubi?

Eddielee's font seems too bold. I will go for Trusty's as the base (assuming you count me in, Ubi). Ubi, you think Trusty's is OK for the custom dial (no need to mod the date wheel and cyclop)? Thanks.

If it's not too late, I'm in too. Thanks, ubi.

I saw the term NOS used often, like NOS Rolex crystal, NOS bezel insert, but couldn't figure what that stands for. Please enlighten.

Excellent, V. It's a brilliant idea to remove the caseback with rubber gloves. I wonder if it works on Rolexes. I'm gonna try that.

I have a couple cheap reps I can screw around with so I want to give it a try. I have absolutely no tools at all. Can somebody tell me all the tools I need for the job from start to finish. I know I need to remove the crown so I need to open the case back; remove the bezel so I don't scratch it; possibly remove the movement (should I?); file down the CGs; polish them. So I need tools to do these. Thanks.

The Zigmeister, what watch does your movement-in-review come from? Is it from Paul (WO-Mart)?

chrgod, avitt:

does the hour hand adjust in 1-hour increment or I have to line up the minute hand to 12 first so I keep the hour/minute hand relationship myself? Thanks.

I guess you missed the boat. It's genuine. The owner just admitted it. It looks genuine too.

There may be a little bit of variety in the finishing of the same Rolex gen watches, explaining your observation.

One word: if it looks "harmonious," then it's likely a gen.

How did I miss reading aeroguy's confession? Anyway, oh well, it's the pic. It's too dark at the tip of the CGs, making the curvature unnoticeable and making the CGs look short.

Judging from the pic (could be the pic), fake but a real good one. The CGs give it away. Look at the real thing (snagged and blown up from Rolex official website) and yours (flipped 90 degrees). Your CGs look a little short. From this angle, the outside of top CG may look straight, but that of the bottom should show some curvature. It looks like a straight line to me. And the CGs should be more pointy. Again it could be the picture.

Yep, I got the Exp II with adjustable hour hand from Trusty yesterday... Review

Very nice piece.. Finish and details on the Explorer II are spot-on, at least to me.

But I find the adjustable GMT-hand on the old version more intuitive to use than the adjustable hour hand. The new version requires more thinking.

From pics, I think Trusty's is spot on. I don't know if it's the angle of the pics, the crown seems a bit big. Is that true with your watch? BTW, I owned 2 explorer II before. The adjustable-hour-hand at first seemed non-intuitive. After a while, esp when I was doing a lot of travelling, I appreciated why Rolex makes the hour hand adjustable (at crown pos 2 which also does quick set date) and it's in one hour increment and there's no hacking. You can freely change the hour without stopping the watch. The hour hand denotes current time zone. I will default my GMT hand for home zone so I always know what time it is at home looking at it. GMT II has the moving bezel which some people think should be set to Greenwich time. That's the way GMT II is supposed to function. That's your choice in my opinion. Interesting read: http://www.koniaris.com/rolex/

I'm referring to the current model. From the pic on the official site, it's green. But is it C5 (greenish-yellow), or C9 (blue-green), or something else? Thanks.

I'm actually confused about the colors, from tritec web site:

C1 Colour "C1" for white

C3 Colour "C3" for yellow

C5 Colour "C5" for greenish-yellow

C7 Colour "C9" for blue-green

but I see C3 is considered green by many. Can somebody give a more commonly understood definition?

Mine is:

Sub no date

Black Sub date

Explorer I

Explorer II black

GMT II red/blue

Datejust silver bar plain bezel jubilee

Datejust white roman coin bezel jubilee

Datejust white roman plain bezel plain

Planet Ocean orange orange

Aqua Terra Silver

Aqua Terra Railmaster

I'll die a happy man if I have all these, for now, that is.

I've got both of these movements, as well as a 2893-2 based GMT. I find the adjustable hand model to be the most functional of them all (in fact, I'm traveling with my Exp. II right now...).

The problem with the others is that the GMT (or second time zone) hand moves when you reset the time on the main hands. Because of this, you have to remember the time, and reset the GMT hand if you want to maintain the the second time zone.

Sorry, do you recommend the Hour Hand Adj or GMT Hand Adj? On the real thing, the hour hand can be independently adjusted (in 1 hour increment). The GMT hand is adjusted as a result of adjusting the minute hand so it's not directly adjustable. When you go between time zones, you will adjust the hour hand during when there's no hacking so you can freely change time zone without having to adjust the time (assuming you are not going to India or places like that where it has an additional 1/2 hour difference). That is to say you always use the hour hand to denote the current time zone's time. I like that and it's the way the real thing works. I hope Trusty's Hour Hand Adj means the hour hand is adjusted independently and it's more durable or equally durable. If that's the case, that's the one I want to get.