briank996

More importantly, wouldn't they know the case back is FAR from 1:1. The 318 CB on the gen is sharply engraved with a lot of detail. This one looks like the 318 case back when viewed through the bottom of a beer mug.

They are bad pictures. I know my word doesn't mean much but I am really picky about things like this, I pretty much won't wear anything unless it couldn't pass for gen in an AD. It's really good.

Both OPII and OPXXIX are running at 21600 bph, only difference is the missing COSC certification for OPXXIX.

This is not true. OPXXIX is indeed 18,000 bph

Hmmm, all things I didn't know. So is there a benefit to the low beat movement?

Just that it's thrown in for free when you buy the rep

The 'OP' on the caseback of the 005k was also laser etched on after the real engraving had taken place. (oops) The 318 CBs were all done correctly.

I have nerver heard of any genuine pam movement ( 6497-2) that is the lowbeat one!!!!!!!!!!!!

OP XXIX = low beat, only used in the 318

Yes, 318s we're limited to 150 but they we're never terribly expensive nor are they hard to find for sale. Actually they retail for less than the 005k.

Caseback pics here...

The Europelli handmade straps are really impressive. This is one of his baseball straps that has been distressed in a JV style. I bought a baseball strap from him a few years ago that wasn't nearly as nice, apparently those were outsourced to someone like Hirsch whom he provided leather. These are so much better, hand stitched by Drew himself.

The crown spacing is a non-issue for me. A lot of the gens' crowns look just like this one.

+100

Mine 318 just landed... Quality is superb.

What's interesting about the 318 is that it comes with a non-cosc OP XXIX movement which runs at 18,000 bph, while the 005k runs at 21,600 bph. Since all of these new luminor reps use the low-beat 18,000 asian 6497, the 318 is actually the most accurate in this respect.

My stuff arrived today, all is well. Shipped 1/17 arrived 1/20 (dhl) Still nothing from Toro though, hopefully everything is ok.

I ordered a couple of CGs 12/29. I got a tracking number but I don't know how to use it. Is there a Spanish version of USPS? Haha

Does your tracking number begin with RR and end with CN?

I ordered a couple items from him and got the quickly once they were mailed; however, it took him two weeks to get the packages mailed.

The first four email requests for a tracking number generated this humble six word response....

"yes, sure, let me check it"

That was 2 days ago

Payment was made 17 days ago.

I don't know that he's left but they have "temporarily closed his section due to unresolved customer issues." Or something along those lines.

sorry, accidental bump

It's been a few weeks now and still no sign of my watches. Can't seem to get a response in regard to tracking.

Apparently RG has "temporarily" closed his seller account without a whole lot of detail.

Usually I'm very patient once I see that it's actually shipped but something definitely seems wrong here.

Getting worried. Anyone else waiting on something from him?

Richemont is going to take drastic action if rep makers keep up with this kind of quality.

If they start coming out with historic models of this caliber, it will certainly cannibalize sales at their retail price point.

Hope it hasn't really been in Halifax for the last 5 days.

Product Type: Expedited USA

Track History

Date Time Location

2010/11/04 18:34 HALIFAX Item processed at postal facility

10:09 DARTMOUTH Item accepted at the Post Office

Doesn't seem to have hit customs yet. What has been your experience? Does this service go Express once it gets to USPS?

why does the jackob CB have its serial number swirled out but the genuine CB serial is visible?

All good points Brian, as well common sense when it comes to Panerai watches in general.

However, in the case of the latest Daylight rep, I'm still pro 'lifting' the CG profile off the case in favour of other options. As most of us know by now, these models come with a little fault (or few) around the CG assembly, as new from factory. The crown tube is slightly longer and even without the o-ring seal inside the crown when lever is closed it still creates a noticeable tension against the bare metal of the crown underside and ultimately on the lever. Installing a thinner o-ring seal helped a little but not completely addressed the pressure issue. Another little issues is the CG pin sleeve which is made of very soft rubber, which gives way to even slightest of pressures between the crown and the lever.

This is however in my own experience, and I handled and moded 7 of those so far, 2 of my own ones and 5 for colleagues and friends rep collectors. All 7 were the same in this respect. I'd say 95% of them would have this issue, with your 236 you might have been the fortunate one

The CG "squeeze" isn't foolproof technique, I definitely agree. But it worked for me for two reasons, one - the feet now perfectly match the curvature of the case and two - the artificial tension that's transferred from the crown tube to the lever tip on a new Daylight rep is definitely gone. There's still a nice pressure provided by the combination of the crown spring and o-ring seal, and there's a nice solid audible 'click' when closing the lever, just like the gen.

As far as the changing geometry of the CG is concerned, you actually made me remove one from my Daylight and measure the top and bottom of the CG cavity with digi calipers, the diff is miniscule, few microns if any, not visible by the naked eye anyway.

That said, I wouldn't suggest any kind of modding of the CG to anyone without good nerves, steady hand, proper tools and technique...just as you, this isn't my first mod and I've destroyed many rep parts in the past until I reached a satisafactory results in modding. Using a hand needle file on the CG feet is definitely for the most skilled out there...so caution is advised. Using vice to squeze the CG ends to the correct and acceptable shape comes close second

cheers,

b

Agreed. Either way could bring great success or complete failure

On the geometry, I agree that in most cases, the bend should not be seen with a naked eye. The problem for me is that since I would have done the bending, I would know that it's bent, even by microns. My brain knows it's bent and it bothers me, gets exaggerated and before ya know it, I'm just not wearing the watch anymore. It may not have ever been straight, but my perception is all that matters at that point. I know, it's very OCD. The reality is, it will never be perfect but sometimes I get lucky and become satisfied for a short period of time.

Every case is going to be a bit different, any combination of any of these techniques are great tools and add great value to the forum.

I would definately nix the scratch pen in favor of the Scotch pad, the pen won't give you the correct finish as Pete mentioned earlier.

I don't like bending the CG for two reasons...

It takes tension off of the lever that is needed to maintain an 'oem' feel while opening and closing. If you take enough tension off so the lever doesn't protrude, the lever will just barely make contact with the crown.

The other reason is that you're changing the geometry of the cutout on the CG. Instead of having a nice perfectly square cut-out, you may end up with a weird angle that doesn't look any better than the protruding lever did.

My approach is basically this...

Remove the CG and manually file each contact point to attain good fittament. I use a small flat needle file, a little goes a long way. File, test fit, file, test fit, file, test fit.

Once I was happy with the fit, I moved on to dealing with the lever...

Attach the CG to the watch, apply some tape to the CG just above and below the lever (to protect the finish of the CG while grinding the lever)

Under lighted magnification, I use the dremel to grind the lever down until it's flush with the CG.

And once that's done, it's time to flush the pin..

Push the underside of the CG pin until the pin is ever so slightly protruding from the top of the CG. (Just a tiny little bit)

Use some sandpaper (in the same direction as the matte finish has been applied) to basically shear off that little protruding bit of pin. This will leave you with a pin that is completely flat and flush with the top of the CG.

Use the dremmel to polish the top of the pin while it's still in the CG. You'll end up polising the CG as well but it doesn't matter.

Remove the pin and set aside.

Take the CG and lever and refinish to a brushed surface.

Reasseble and reinstall.

It's certainly easier said than done and I've screwed up a lot of watches in the process of becoming good at this.

I'd be happy to provide this as a service to anyone interested. Just send me a PM.

It takes me about 3-4 hours to get it looking like this..

Sandpaper, dremel, needle file, scotch brand scrubbing pad, painters tape, bracelet pin remover, blue loctite, screwdriver.

Although it was a better looking CG to begin with, it made a big difference to me. Very much worth the time/effort/cost.

good before and after here...

CG pin is way too close to the outside edge of the CG. Crown looks too thin.

Sure, no problems Brian.

I used my garage workshop vice for this.

It's best to use some sort of dampener on each side of the vice's metal bars. I use two smaller pieces of hardwood, but you can use other material.

Place the CG inside the vice, it's feet tips to rest against these two wooden protectors. I place the CG horizontally (lever hole facing up) so it's easy to monitor the squeeze and effect it has on the rectangular cavity for the crown. Engage the vice and start turning VERY slowly.

The important bit to note is that even though the CG is made of solid piece of S/S and appears to be something hard to change the shape of even by vice...the CG will bend very easily, so take it slowly, bit by bit...removing the CG from the vice and placing it against the case to reach that 'perfect' fit, then repeat. It took me about 3 tries.

This method isn't perfect and not for everyone, I have to say. It's so easy to scr3w things up if you overshoot with the pressure and squeeze, as well as easy to damage the end of the CG.

Also, and this is VERY IMPORTANT to note for potential modders...since the CG isn't symmetrical, meaning it's solid on one side and has a lever cavity on the other - when you apply the pressure to the ends, ONLY the side with the lever cavity will bend towards the middle! There isn't a workaround to this at least not that I know of, it's simple physics and unfortunately you cannot do much about it.

Go too far and you'll end up with one side bent too much and another not at all...not a great look, so please try to avoid this by having few goes at the vice, and re-check in between.

Hope this helps.

Do you have any photos of your mods at this stage?

cheers!

thanks very much. I'm a little leary about bending it as it is so easy to mess up. Seems like the best way to acomplish the mod though, both the lever and case fittament issues. from all the pictures i've seen, the cg pin looks a tiny bit deeper than flush. here's mine along with a gen pic for reference...

that's great. i've done everything but bend it to fit the case. can you expand on that a bit?