freddy333

Hmmmm...........very interesting.

My Dremel came with a similar looking felt-tipped bit, but the tip was larger than the lettering and it just polished the surface. I do not know if rubber will do any better or be able to actually widen the lettering, but since these bits look alot more narrow, they might be able to actually reach down into the letter and smooth out the bottoms a bit. It might be worth a try.

I also have one of these stainless steel polishers (I use them to smooth off the drill marks when doing lug holes), but they just roughly polish the surface (I have to go over the area with green rouge afterwards to remove the brushed finish the bits leave).

Avitt -- The more I look at the lettering on your caseback, it is pretty clear that the stroke width (the thickness of the lines that make up each letter) is wider than mine. Looking at the double-quote marks (to the right of the 'R' in the word OYSTER), I can see that the lines are exactly the same length and in the same location as mine, but yours are deeper, wider and a bit rounder. Since we have the same DRSD caseback, I have to assume that the previous owner widened the lettering with some type of tool and was able to trace each letter exactly. Based on my very amateurish results with a diamond engraving bit on my Dremel, I have to assume that they either used something that allows much greater control over movement or it was done by a professional engraver.

Huh?

Pete...slowly back away from that crack pipe...

I have to agree with Avitt.

Pete, your caseback looks exactly like the first one I modded some time back. The idea was to remove some of the surface details and make it look worn and aged. So I sanded and polished the original lettering (as I think you have done), which did help a bit, but it still looked like a modern (laser) etching that has been sanded/polished. A small improvement, but the lines that make up each letter are too narrow and the corners are too well defined. A move in the right direction, but no where near the same quality of Avitt's or some of the other members' casebacks I have seen posted here. Still, even the best of them are not able to replicate the sunkin (stamped) lettering of a gen.

At this point, I think this will have to be handled in two parts. The first will be to find the tool/procedure to soften, widen & deepen the lettering and to smooth out the bottom of each letter (laser etching leaves a rough, whitish texture in the base of each letter, while gen lettering is nice and smooth (or slightly rough - due to wear). The second will be to find a way to replicate the slightly sunkin appearance around most of the letters.

Yes, I just noticed that, too.

Ziggy definitely does top shelf work. Enjoy your 'new' watch.

Yes, that is what I thought. Are there any aftermarket hands that fit the ETA 2846 which more closely match the gen hands?

Thanks Avitt.

Actually, I was able to crack the solder joint on one (which is what I was trying to do), but the other one kind of bent before the joint separated. The effect was the same -- it widened the hole enough to slide the 2mm springbar through. You can slightly see where the outer 'skin' of that one link warped when the light hits the link the right way. I will have to figure out some way to flatten it back down.

And you are right about the springbar holes. The width of that side of these end links are way off (too narrow) anyway, but when I saw that magic number (550) on a pair of old end links that came with one of my old rep Subs, I just could not avoid trying to fit them. Even with their warts, it sure is nice to know I have the right number lurking under there. I am hoping it will not be too long before I can locate a proper gen pair.

The downside to the bracelet upgrade is that it makes that laser etched MBW caseback all the more obvious. I have a lead on another local jeweler who is willing to at least take a look to see if there is anything he can do.

My "vintage rolex sport models" book is worthless for reference on these types of questions.

It is very expensive, but the Italian book 'Rolex Daytona From Birth to the Myth' is one of the best sources I have seen for technical data on the Daytona models (up until the current 1165xx models). I got mine on ebay.

ebay

There has also been an additional update since the previous post

Unfortunately, not gen links (apparent from the way they 'fit'), but they should hold me until I can locate gens.

PM me if you need more info.

The bracelet should fit (the 6263 requires a 19mm width bracelet) and its part number (78350) is correct for this model. But I do not think the 557 end link numbers are right - that may or may not matter to you.

While awaiting the remaining parts and tools for the next set of DRSD mods (He valve, superdome), I am beginning to notice some of the smaller details that separate my MBW from a gen. One of those details are the MBW hands, which I think have narrower lume sections inside them compared to the gen DRSD hands. So I am wondering if there are options for upgrading the hands on the ETA 2846? Am I correct that the gen hands (made to fit the 1570 movement) will not fit onto the pinion of the 2846? If that is right, are there any aftermarket hands that do fit the ETA and more closely match the gen hands?

And for anyone considering whether to upgrade their rep clasp, I would highly recommend it. I just received a nicely aged 93150 clasp and fit it onto an aftermarket 93150 bracelet and diver's extension. The part bolted right onto the rep bracelet and improved the bracelet's feel and appearance. Once I locate the correct 580 or 585 end links, I will consider the bracelet complete.

I think the 1680 MBW says 'Polex' (instead of Rolex) on the side of the case underneath the end link (after you remove the bracelet).

Beautiful watch. I am jealous.

You are exactly right and that is exactly what is wrong about the MBW casebacks (they are etched using lasers, which were not available 30 years ago). But I have seen enough fairly accurate rep casebacks (including yours) that look much more like the vintage gens than mine does. And, while it does make a difference, I do not think these nicer casebacks got that way as a result of sanding & polishing alone. There must have been some other tool or process involved.

I have sanded a couple of casebacks and while it does soften the face of each letter a bit, it has no effect on the width, depth or inside texture. Sanding also does not create that sunkin appearance of the original stamped impression.

Before I began on this quest, I tried to locate a jeweler who could replicate one of the gen casebacks. Either they did not have the proper equipment or they refused to work on the part because they did not want to work on a rep.

Because the lettering on your caseback does not appear to have that sunkin appearance, I think it is probably a rep (that was re-engraved by someone with the 'right' tool (whatever that is) and some experience). But I could be wrong. Maybe the new Dremel engraving tool (which I have not opened yet) can produce better results than I got with the standard Dremel driving a diamond engraving tip. But if it does, I would sure like to know how.

fx -- That is the same problem I had with the diamond Dremel engraving bits I used on the other caseback. Between the 'wobbly' nature of the rotating Dremel shaft and the width of the tip of the bits, I completely bullocks up the caseback. Fortunately, it was scrap. But the experience tells me the standard Dremel is not the correct tool for this type of re-engraving work.

What are people using to do this?

Nanuq -- That makes sense. I have been using silicone gasket seal, which has a similar consistency.

Get a stainless steel Rolex Datejust with bar markers (no gold, no 'gems').

For understatement

For a more sporty look

Pateks, VCs, JLCs, etc. are all beautiful watches, but are more likely to seem out of place unless you wear well tailored premium suits and travel in high income circles.

The Datejust is the perfect watch for someone (in a suit) who wants to project an image of success in just about any environment without having the validity of his watch (or himself) questioned. People who see it will think 'Oh, he cannot afford a gold Rolex', but they will not think it is a fake.

Has anyone used one of these

to make their stock WM/MBW DRSD caseback look more like this

I was in Sears collecting parts for the upcoming He valve mod and, on impulse, decided to pick up one of these Dremel engravers. I had previously bought two diamond engraving bits for my standard Dremel, but the tips of both bits were about twice as wide as the width of the lines in the lettering on my caseback. I had an extra caseback from another watch that I used to practice on, but the bits completely overwrote (by a wide margin) the original engraving, which messed it all up.

This new engraver comes with a more narrow tip that looks like it might actually fit into the existing engraving. But before I open the package I wanted to see if anyone else (who successfully re-engraved their caseback) used one of these tools. If you have, can you tell me how you used it? I am wondering whether you start the engraver and then place it into one of the grooves of the letter and start moving, or do you place the tip into the groove first (with the engraver off) and then switch it on and begin moving?

Beautiful watch and great wristshot, Stephane. Glad to see it made the journey safely. Wear it well.

JoJo -- I wish you had posted a few days ago. I found a 93150, but I still need a pair of gen 580/585 end links (with the soldered inner hoops that fit the 2mm dia springbars) in case you have these and are willing to part with them.

Mojo -- Unfortunately, I do not have my watch with me, but assuming the crystal o-rings (gaskets) are the same as the case gaskets, Ofrei.com has them 3 for $5.25.

Here is the description --

Here is the page link (about 3/4 from the top of the page)

That makes sense. Since most of the insulation is due to the press-fit of the crystal to the case, I wonder if the type of o-rings sold in hardware and plumbing supply stores might work if matched in size for the case? Once you coat it with silicone, I would think that might do the trick, at least as a backup option in case we are unable to locate a source for the OEM part.

Pug (or anyone else that has the OEM o-ring), any chance you could measure the inside & outside diameter of yours so we might be able to source a generic o-ring?

The bezel construction is like the original 1680 with a compression ring that holds the crystal in:

The Compression Ring is visible at the back, under the packaged crystal. Note the groove for the rubber o-ring. My watch didn't come with an o-ring, but it still had the groove. I fitted an o-ring for waterproofing and accuracy.

Pug -- I have a WM/MBW 1665 that also came without that o-ring for the crystal. Can you tell me where you got yours and what the part number is? I will be disassembling my case again (as soon as I locate a drill press vice for my mini-drill press) to finish an He valve mod and I will be replacing the crystal at that time too.