EEngels

Here's me goofing around before changing crystals and getting the movement sorted out. Good news, everybody! The dial fits.

Oh man, I could certainly use a few - can we talk? *1601 based project in progress *16xxx based project to begin EDIT: sending PM to ask.

Annnnd, that freshly-serviced 1570 in the trading area is now sold. Missed out again.

You're right. I don't have the membership level to list the Omega, but I will sell it to someone committed to building an Omega build. The 1570 in the sales section is out of my budget, but it'll be amazing for the person who gets it - the seller says it's freshly serviced! ... man, if I had a 1570, I'd be done by now. That would be so perfect.

I've got a movement ring coming - when I have that, I'll have to remove the dial feet from the dial. I had always kept hoping I'd be able to find a 15xx (1520,30,70, etc) and not have to chop dial feet, but the two times I had the chance, I missed out. Besides, it would be that much closer to gen - although service would be a nightmare I suppose.

OK, my dial is 27.91 mm (with my weak calipers and trying to be careful with the dial.) a DJ 16014 dial is 27.7mm -- which makes me think my dial will work, or be painfully close but not close enough. People have put DJ 16014 dials in 1601 cases in the past with success. Maybe it will be close.

I don't mind pursuing two separate project paths, as long as one completes faster than the other, no problem keeping it straight. What you're telling me is that I have two halves of two separate projects. My primary limitation is budget at this point. 6541 case: I must be doing something wrong. I go to ndt - sign in, attempt to purchase, no joy. The case price is 0.00 - makes me think she doesn't have it. Besides, I thought I was doing something cool by using a gen case, albeit for a DJ, not a milgauss. I do want that solid bezel - how to get it on the case that fits my 6541 dial is a good question. 1019 Dial: I went looking for 1019 parts at vrm - I'm just not able to pay 1100 for a dial. The 6541 dial I have is 28mm in diameter. What is the diameter for a 1601 DJ dial? What is the diameter of an 1019 dial?

OK, good advice. Will the dial I have fit in a 6538 size case? Where can I get a good one? Just for the sake of argument, will it fit in a TC Sub case? (I'd cut off the crown guards, maybe.) Is it possible to replace the rotating bezel with a smooth stainless bezel? Who makes a stainless smooth bezel in place of the rotating one... I'd do a 1019, but I'liked the 3/6/9 markers for 6541, and I want the lightning bolt second hand. If I do a 1019, I have to give up at least the 3/6/9. And where would I get a good 1019 dial? This is the look I was aiming at:

Well, I say it's an NDT dial. I'm not sure. I can't recall what it was advertised as when I bought it, but looking at it, it: * says SINGER on the back * has dial feet in the 1570 positions (35ish and 57ish) * lume is aged, otherwise in good condition. Maybe it is and maybe it isn't. I recall paying a few hundred for it. NDT advertises their dials as 100% original, refinished. I imagine that honeycomb pattern would be hard to refinish. Would you guys call an NDT dial gen when they're sold as original? Man, I wish I'd gotten a 1570 when I'd had the chance. I'd hate to cut these dial feet un-necessarily.

YEARS LATER.... I am still doing this project. I have currently: NDT dial hands (lightning bolt second hand, hour and minute dauphine) gen 1601 case with crystal (need to remove cyclops) sapphire crystal for 1601 with no cyclops (or use this crystal) smooth stainless bezel gen steel crown and of all the crazy... an Omega 2500C co-axial escapement movement. This is essentially a 2892 as I understand it. TO DO: figure out either swapping crystals or removing the cyclops acquire movement holder ring and tabs and screws to mount movement figure out dial feet determine whether or not the hands are correct dia. for the cannon pinion on the 2500c assemble (yes, there are a few more details here. stem length, stem position, etc.) Alternately: Sell the Omega movement to an omega rep builder and get a 2836 or other and finish the build. Why did I buy the Omega? Because I missed out the 2x times I came across a 1570 that was close to my budget. The co-axial seemed technically intriguing. Why am I building a 6541 in a Datejust case? There's a picture of a 6541 where someone removed the rotating bezel and used a smooth bezel instead. I like that. Advice welcome.

I am worried about the stem height difference between a 2824 and the 2892/2500. The fitting can't be the same, can it?

A) it still could - I could decide to get a 2892 and make use of the omega elsewhere. If someone has a suggestion for the case/dial hands for a franken-omega, I'll entertain it. 2) the seller I got the movement from has more. ask me, I'll pm you his email address.

Hi Andy, I could have done a lot of things. I got the coaxial for $450. Between the cost of the case, dial, etc., if I spend too much more, I could have probably bought a used Air King. (with too small a case for what I'm trying for, I think.) The Omega 2500c coaxial seems plenty accurate to me. The Omega seems technically better than a 1570 in terms of service. Would I object if I could get a 1570 at the same price? No. At double the price? Yes - I'm essentially out of budget here. I could have bought a 2824 or other ETA movement for less, but at that point there's a lot less difference between my project and buying a replica already assembled with an ETA in it. Part of it is, I'm this deep in already on purchased parts, part of it is trying to do something unique and potentially technically superior (where superior is open to interpretation. You're placing the weight on accuracy, I'm placing it on the interesting quality of the Daniels escapement.) Don't think I'm completely locked in my ways - I considered buying an eta ladies' movement off ebay (there was a montblanc meisterstuck I was bidding on - it closed at 130ish, but I was in an airplane and unable to bid when it closed. c'est la vie.) As it is, if I had managed to purchase the ladies movement, I would be in exactly the same position I'm in today- I would still need the adapter ring.

I can't find a user with that name - is it jmb for certain?

The important thing to remember is, it's your watch. You built it. You get to make it to your taste. Others can approve or disapprove of the quality of your work, but their disapproval of your taste doesn't matter. I think you did a good job recovering from the over-drill error. Removing the CG and going big crown (or even small crown - not every Rolex used the big crown, after all) will go a long way to making it nice.

I need help. I started this project by buying up parts, and now I need some help to get the last bits and finish. I am building a milgauss dial and hands (6541 style) into a 1601 case from 1961. I have the case, dial, hands (although I may need to get different hands - these may fit 1570 and I'm not using a 1570 any more due to budget) I am trying to fit an Omega 2500C co-axial movement (based on ETA 2892, same dimensions I believe) into the space where the 1570 used to live. I need an adapter and Stilty's PM inbox is full. Help. The other help I need is to get the cyclops off the crystal (I bought a sapphire crystal with no cyclops, maybe I can use it?) And to get change the fluted gold for a smooth steel bezel. I bought the bezel. I have a steel crown, stem and stem tube so I can get away from the gold crown as well. If I don't have to change tube, the happier I am. I asked raffle times, but they aren't sure how to handle a 2892 based movement.

I apologize for raising a zombie topic years later. Is it possible to fit a 2892 in a 1570 cal case like a 1601? an adapter like that would really help me out. If it is possible, I anticipate it's the same problem as fitting it in a 1680.

I have a 1601 case that came with a 1570 caliber. Is it possible to put a 3035 in it? Do the two have the same physical size and dimensions? Stem height?

Awesome. Post pictures! The build I'm planning will be my first - the more stuff you guys post, the better off I'll be.

Or if you wanted to sell the movement, let me know? I'm gathering parts for a no-date watch now that will likely use a 1601 case. And if you were letting go of the case with the movement? Even better!

Bad influences are better.

This. I'm thinking perhaps I take the sub clones and try and convert them to 6541 replicas. That would be a good way to begin. The difficulty is, where to get lightning bolt ETA/AS ETA hands? Clearly, they're made - the replicas for the new Milgauss exist. Any tips?

Ubi, Thanks for replying! I've been lurking and searching the archives for a week or so, checking out the fantastic builds going on in this community. It's you guys that make me believe it's possible to come out with something more than the sum of a random collection of parts. I've got 2 zeiger submariner replicas on the way for experimenting with. I paid 30 bucks for both of them, so they're perfect candidates for casing/uncasing and other fun. I've got screwdrivers, hand tweezers, case remover, and hand setters on the way. As with guitars and cars, quality tools, the correct tool for the job, make all the difference. Thanks for your definitions of 'build' and 'franken.' I wonder if it's even possible to make a franken Milgauss - the real dial and hands seem unobtainable.

Hi, I'm new here. I have a few simple watches* and now I'm in the mood to make a franken. I have no watchmaking experience but I've begun to buy some of the tools. This is a pattern for me. I bought guitars, I learned to play guitar, and then I learned to repair and build guitars. I bought a car, I learned to work on it, and then I pulled and installed clutches and engines and various parts to keep things running when I was in school. I really like the 6541 Milgauss look, because it's a little different. So, I have a few questions. I'm seeking advice and opinions. CASE: (1) How much to spend? (2) Something gen like (TOO NEW TO POST A LINK)cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260734819614&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNAFP:US:1123 - OR - something newly made, like a phong case? MOVEMENT: Where to source? What to spend? Difficulties involved in mixing and matching calibres to cases that weren't originally issued together? DIAL: NDTrading has dials, hands, and a whole dial/hands/movement set - but I believe the hands and dial are replica. Which brings me to the question you've all addressed before: If the case is a replica, the dial is a replica, the hands are replica, and the movement is genuine, is it a franken, or is it a replica? If the movement is the only real part in it, is it still a Rolex? I guess I think if the case were gen and the movement gen, even if they're for other ref., it's still a Rolex. Thank you! * a few simple watches means, mkII LRRP (1655 style), two skx007 mods similar to sm300, and a replica seamaster bond. Time for something a little more Rolex-like.