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ninjagaiden

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Posts posted by ninjagaiden

  1. Guys

    After some thought I have decided I am going to get a Blackbird. I prefer the 2008 style brushed SS case

    http://www.1-pc8838.com/bl00102-blackbird-date-black-asia-7750-running-sec300-p-3889.html

    but I am absolutely torn between the SS bracelet and the lovely leather strap version

    http://www.1-pc8838.com/bl00101-blackbird-date-black-asia-7750-running-sec300-p-3443.html

    So I emailed Josh to ask for a price with both straps.

    Before I buy the trigger, are there any reasons why I would be *much* better off getting the 2009 or the 2010 model of this watch. I'm not fussed about the case back, or a few extra marking on the subdials...

    Thanks

    N

  2. Folks. Please can I ask your help. I have previously purchased a sub $100 Pam 297 on a leather strap. A few weeks after I got it I saw a real Pam in the store and was convinced my rep was a toy because it looked nothing like it.

    Now I've been looking in more detail at some pictures of Gen Pam's and there seem to be two types of case style:

    First a Gen Pam 005

    post-39549-0-98048700-1315516656.jpg

    Then a Gen Pam 212 : this is sooooo much nicer to my eye!

    post-39549-0-66138300-1315516659.jpg

    Then my Rep 297

    post-39549-0-38185700-1315516660.jpg

    So I am now very confused because I though the main 'tells' of my rep (polished SS case throughout, crown guard lever pointing upwards, 'thick' case side, flat crystal) are all to be found on a gen 005! I'd like to get this straight in my head before getting a rep 286J.

    Thanks

    N

  3. Folks,

    Here are the lume shots. Quite interesting.

    First shot I left ExpII and seamaster in a tungsten lamp lit room, switched off and took the photo. You can clearly see that the Seamaster lume has done a better job in 'ambient' indoor light.

    post-39549-0-49706800-1315429346.jpg

    Second shot I left both watches in front of a superbright 80 Ansi lumen LED torch for 10 seconds then took the picture straight away. The rep is a little better when its lume is saturated.

    post-39549-0-60944000-1315429347.jpg

    In both pictures the ExpII is running and the seamaster is not, so ignore the blurry second hand (4 second expossure)

    Bottom line - if you want that glow in the day effect it will need a relume.

  4. Guys

    Absolutely right about AR cib0rgman. No comparison when placed next to my spectacles, however the flat(ish) crystal means reflections are not too bad, similar to my gen Tag.

    Got my verniers out and the case is in fact nearly 43mm across (not including CGs of course). Hope this helps bruce79

    I don't know much about C3 superluminova but the lume is not as strong as any of my gen watches. However the blue lume is really cool in the dark. Will try and get a side by side shot with my Seamaster this evening.

    As for the orange GMT hand - it might not be your cup of tea but to my eye none of the current 40mm reps get the red colour on the GMT hand right. They are all too dark compared to the gen which has a really zingy red. I think the rep orange is closer to the gen.

    I went for the white dial because I like the contrast of the black edged hands and lume dots against the white. In the black dial these details are not so apparent. I can't see beyond my nose without my glasses so the extra contrast might be helpful for me.

    Hope this helps. Will try and get a lume shot soon.

    For my first non-toy Rep I am pretty pleased.

    N

  5. Folks,

    My Exp II 2011 arrived from Josh this afternoon, so I took some pics to share with you. Overall I am very happy with the watch. The dial, hands and lume are all good, crown is centred in CGs and the movement feels smooth. GMT hand setting has a nice positive click action.

    The AR is really good and the lume whilst not superbright so far is quite uniform. Cyclops placement over date window is good, and date numerals all look okay. Rehaut engraving is not bad. R of rolex does not quite line up with the hour markers but it's not noticeable. Imprtant thing is that the letters are in line.

    It's quite a chunky feel at 161g on my wrist (though my gen seamaster is pretty close at 155g) and whilst all the edges are nicely smoothed and poliches, it is quite an edgy design on the case.

    As for dial colour - difficult to say but I think it has a very slight cream tinge to it.

    Only problem is that on the bezel a little flake of black paint has come off on the number 14. Pretty sure I can re-ink this myself if it becomes bothersome though.

    Anyway - what do I know. Have a look at the pics yourselves. Will try and get a good lume shot when it is dark.

    Enjoy...

    post-39549-0-48518500-1315408979.jpg

    post-39549-0-77375800-1315408980.jpg

    post-39549-0-36988700-1315408982.jpg

    post-39549-0-90659500-1315408983.jpg

    post-39549-0-10493500-1315408985.jpg

    post-39549-0-04203200-1315408986.jpg

    post-39549-0-49743300-1315408987.jpg

    post-39549-0-34643700-1315408988.jpg

    post-39549-0-23985700-1315408990.jpg

    post-39549-0-54596700-1315408991.jpg

    post-39549-0-05287500-1315409006.jpg

    post-39549-0-71619700-1315409007.jpg

  6. Welcome from a fellow noob who is just outside the M25 :D

    Here's to absorbing all the knowledge on the forum and getting very little work done in the next few days mate!

    If it helps you justify the cost, consider this - a noob factory LV sub costs the same as two full tanks of diesel for my car...

    Best

    N

  7. Folks,

    I'd love to get a Breitling as my second ot third rep watch (A PAM 286J is the main competition for second place), and I am after one that has the stealthy look of a SA, SOSF or the Blackbird in stainless steel (not PVD), SS bracelet and a black dial.

    I have looked over By-tor's excellent review but I realise that the reviews and images relate to previous generation reps which you can't get anymore. I think the best example currently available from Josh is this SOSF, because of the Lume and double AR

    http://www.1-pc8838.com/bl02004-superocean-steelfish-black-swiss-28362-p-2603.html

    I would *Love* to have a blackbird, if only to travel three miles down the road and take a wrist shot of it in front of a real SR71A Blackbird, but sadly I don't think it is as good a rep.

    I would go with a SA if it was a *much* better rep than the others but I am wary of the 48mm case size on my wrist : the size makes it look too blingy!

    Also what is the PVD like on these Breitling reps? Josh has some on his site and the pics don't look very uniform in terms of colour / coverage. I used to own a Lum-Tec Bull 45 watch and the PVD on that was really nice and inky black.

    Would appreciate your thoughts

    N

  8. Guys,

    Lining up one of these PAM 286J's from Josh as my second rep purchase once my Exp II clears customs.

    Any comments on the Rubber strap vs the leather strap with the blue stitching on this one? I like the blue stitching on the leather strap but the double deployant clasp on the rubber strap looks sooo much nicer!

    Cheers

    N

  9. Folks, could you help a noob out?

    I'm stuck with which of these three watches to get as a noob rep around the $300 mark, likely from Josh@ perfect clones. I want a 40-44mm size SS watch with ETA movement, which is distinctine without being too showy.

    I'd like a good finish on the watch, even if it is not that faithful a rep, and a fairly idiot-proof mechanism with some longevity to it. I'm unlikely to mod this first watch with Gen parts - I'll save that for another purchase!

    Before finding RWG I bought a couple of 'toy' reps at the $100 mark which I didn't like, and a couple of PAM reps which were better but the mechanisms were rubbish.

    Having read the forum for the past 5 days (and not done as much of everything else as I should) I have these choices in weak order of preference:

    (Please put the dot back in after the www on the links - I haven't enough posts to be able to add proper links yet!!!)

    40mm LV Sub ETA 2836-2

    www 1-pc8838.com/rlss10003-black-dial-50th-anni-swiss-28362-p-1023.html

    The black bezel subs aren't really my thing but I do like the LV version. This goes top of list because it strikes me that Subs are the most repped Rolex and you get a lot of detail for the money. Also given the lack of modifications to the mechanism it should be more robsut.

    40mm GMT Master II ETA 2836-2 Coke rather than Pepsi, non CHS version

    www 1-pc8838.com/rlgs10001-master-blackred-bezel-swiss-28362-p-2552.html

    It just looks so pretty! Definitely top of my list in terms of visual appeal. Shame about the dark red on the GMT hand but I can live with that.

    40mm Explorer II ETA 2836-2, white dial (noob factory version)

    www 1-pc8838.com/rlex01001-explorer-series-updated-white-swiss-2836-p-5883.html

    To my eye and from reviews, this is quite a good rep. I have slight concerns about the GMT function hence I picked the non CHS version - is it robust or will it fail like it did in my cheap pam luminor GMT?

    2011 Explorer II Asian ETA 2836-2, the one with AR and Blue lume

    www 1-pc8838.com/rlex00021-2011-explorer-42mm-ssss-white-a2836-p-10628.html

    OK so I got drawn in by th blue lume and the AR but also it has a nive bright red on the GMT hand.

    I would appreciate your comments on my choices. All other things being equal, which one of these four would you take and why?

    Thanks guys ...

    N

  10. Guys thanks so much for the responses. I should have framed my question more specifically, in saying that I could tell the other differences between these two watches (mechanism, crystal etc), but I couldn't see a difference in the quality of the steel case itself. Maybe they'll add some Platinum and rhodium like they do to real catalytic converters :rolleyes:

    I can understand not worrying about the steel grade, but will the higher grade watch have a *real* swiss ETA movement? I've been Googling to try and find out how much the mechanism itself costs but I can't find an estimate. I would appreciate your thoughts ...

  11. You should provide links to the watches you are asking about so we can see where the problem is.

    More than likely you are looking at the same watch with 2 different movements inside.

    Sorry JKay I can't add links until I get 5 posts, but if you put the dot in between the www and the rest of the URL you will get there!

    316L version, $205:

    www silix-prime.com/rols065-p-1873.html

    Stainless Steel version, $67:

    www silix-prime.com/rol111-p-2029.html

  12. Hi Folks,

    Bit of a noob question here. Been looking at Silix and Perfect-clones websites where quite often they offer a low and and high end version of the same watch. The low end is labelled stainless steel, whilst the high end is 316 stainless steel.

    I've been looking at a Rolex Explorer II 16570, and from the pictures the watch cases look just the same to me for low and high end versions.

    Anyone know if the high end 316SS looks & feels better in the flesh?

    Thanks

    N

  13. Hi Ninjagaiden - I've had a good experience from start to finish so far overall. Have continued to research and learn what to look in a good rep from here, and am so pleased I found this community before making rash decisions on poor quality or scam purchases. One minor query with the dealer about one of the two watches before posting the promised proper review and wristies - feel free to PM me in the meantime.

    As mentioned, the purchase was more about the experience (which as a noob was quite exciting) than the actual watches, and I was surprised and pleased to get QC pics/dialogue given the price point of each. When finally shipped, arrived really well packaged and in good time - good experience overall.

    Brakes on for a little while now as I decide what to go for next and from where (probably a 42mm PO next, my wrist couldn't handle the UPO JKay mentions). But so many catch my eye...

    Tomsk,

    Thanks for the info. Mind if I ask which watches you chose for your first purchase?

  14. OK .. do you mean a vintage rolex or a newer model? Just to warn you, vintage rolex watches were meant to be working watches, not heavy fashion pieces .. so they ARE light and not very solid feeling. Just so you know.

    A big heavy Rolex would be a more modern GMT IIc or a SeaDweller Deepsea ... Also chunky is the Omega Planet Ocean 45.5mm size ... we call the replica the UPO.

    Thanks for your advice Jkay

    I like the newer ones : something with nice clean timeless lines and not too much 'bling'. Silix and perfect-clones have a nice Rep of the Explorer II 16570 white dial that is just lovely at the $200 mark especially as the GMT hand actually works. I actually prefer the Silix version because the ROLEX engraving on the rehaut just doesn't look right on the perfect-clones one. I'm going to gather a little more info from people ordering from Silix-prime. Am I right in thinking that these guys will send out real pictures of your actual watch as quality control before shipping?

    As far as the UPO goes I have a Gen Seamaster already so I kind of have that sub look covered.

    Oh one last thing - I can't seem to find the noob link that goes through all the abbreviations used on RWG as it goes to an invalid page. Any clues where to look?

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