HaydenM

Welcome mate, RWG is a great board to learn the ins and outs of a project with a bunch of great people. What's your project?

16 hours ago, automatico said:

"I'm wondering is if the parts that would convert a 3035 to a 3055 would also convert a 3135 to a 3155."

 

In one word...No.  Different base movements.

 

Used to be back when the 3035 was King there were conversion kits to make DD out of them but back then OEM parts were also available.  Many 3035 were scarfed from SS cases to be used in faux 18k DD cases and were converted to DD using aftmkt parts, genuine parts, or a combo of each.  A friend had two of them and I must say the cases were near perfecto.

The kits are still available but if you want one (or two), you better move fast, they will not last long:

 

eBay item number:  203090420655

 

As for converting a 3135 to DD it would be an uphill run because of the rolex "No Parts For You" policy.  I have not seen DD conversion kits for sale but they are probably out there somewhere.  High gold prices have probably killed the faux 18k cases for now.

 

Older slow set 15xx DD movements turn up now and then and I snagged a 1556 for $600 and probably could have got it for less if I had not offered $600 off the bat.  I have an 18k Italy made aftmkt Prez case but it takes a custom 30mm dial and I can not find one.  OEM crystals and bezels fit fine.  It is heavy made (not hogged out inside) and  iirc it weighs 39 grams.  For comparison, I recently scrapped a vintage 'Banner' 32mm 14k screw back case and it weighed 10.5 grams.  Most 34 to 36mm rolex cases go around 30 grams iirc, maybe a little more.  They are hogged out around the inside edges and into the lugs to save every gram of gold.

Thanks for that, the kits seem not to be moving too quickly but I wanted to check. Wasn't sure whether or not the dial side mechanics were the same between the 3035 and 3135 so as to allow for that kit to be used. 

I wasn't too fussed regarding the case, just wanted to know if the movement was possible. It's a shame but I'll have to figure something out or save for an 1803 😛

1 hour ago, kidcreole said:

3035 is a thicker movement with a different offset between stem and dial. If you put a 3135 in a 3035 case you’d need a dial spacer and a longer pinion for hands. I’m also after a 3035 for a 16800 build. Not easy to find at a decent price.

I know that they're a different thickness but essentially what I'm wondering is if the parts that would convert a 3035 to a 3055 would also convert a 3135 to a 3155. From my research I wouldn't foresee the movement thickness affecting that, it would affect the case options but that's an issue for down the road.

Hi all,

I've been looking into a Rolex Day-Date build for some time and while a basic raffles build is tiding me over for the moment I'm looking into other options. As part of my search I have come across what appears to be likely third party conversion parts to turn a 3035 movement into a 3055. Unfortunately a 3035 isn't the easiest thing to get my hands on so I was considering possible other options but they may be outside my current knowledge. I know that there is currently a 3135 rep movement which seems to be relatively reliable. So I'm just checking, does anybody know if there would be any differences between the 3035 and 3135 movements which would get in the way of a 3135 to 3155 conversion?

Thanks in advance.

Definitely interested in seeing how these dials go.

On 7/26/2020 at 8:05 AM, Jovanotti said:

Next step is day wheels in mult languages. 

 

Are you making these as overlays or for a specific movement?

Hi all,

I've been toying around with a 18239 build for a while on and off and have adequately screwed things up a couple of times so I am looking at making certain things easier for myself by making a Day Wheel Overlay tool. Currently taking measurements off of a Rafflesdial 28.5mm dial but I am wanting to make sure that the tool is usable with as many dials as possible. 

I assume this could only be done with 36mm varieties of the DD due to the day display location. 

Does anybody have any proper measurements for these dials or more importantly the dial feel locations for genuine day date dials as I do not have one at hand. Below you will see the measurements that I have been able to estimate.

Thanks in advance

The radium decay chain is almost entirely alpha emission, so not really any issue as long as it stays outside of your body. Try not to breathe anything in. There may be tiny amounts that get to you but the tiny amounts that get out of the crown of your watch isn't going to do anything in reality. If you've had a glass of scotch or a cigarette in your life you're probably at higher risk. Absolutely a different story if you are constantly working on the things of course.

Also something to be remembered with half lives. A chemical with a long half life is undergoing fewer atomic decays emitting radiation than an element with a short half life (per any unit of time), which will sooner be non-radioactive but will be pumping out a greater deal of radiation in the time to get there.

With it being a gen I would not believe that would be legal. That can definitely happen with fake watches (represented as gen, though generally have to be "destroyed").

It's definitely a bit strange if that's all the photos you got given. If they took the caseback off you would think there would be a movement pic.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What an amazingly preserved piece. Great video and I'm sure he'll enjoy his good fortune.

14 hours ago, gamistriotis said:

A. The watch is located in Scotland.

B. You being a racist [censored] only helps with your small penis issues. Go crawl back to your swamp.

 

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

 

 

 

A. Wherever the watch may be now this one definitely originated in china
B. Take the chip off your shoulder. Your complex will not help you with making any friends on this forum. 

As somebody who has just lost the pearl from my 16610 I would love to find a milsub style bezel insert for it, unfortunately no idea if such a thing exists in the aftermarket.

Absolutely gorgeous build mate.

Hi from my 1016 to yours. Wear it in good health.

On 12/5/2019 at 1:59 AM, Mitch3390 said:

Hi Haden, I have to ask as again with respect I have spent some time now trying to search but the site just refuses my searches. I've never seen this on the internet before but its restricting my searches to "seconds" Its just so very odd and I've never come across this before on a website. I am just not allowed to conduct any search what so ever now. Is there something I am missing? I also now see that unless I pay I can't view anything that's for sale. 

 

Hey mate, that seconds thing you've come across I believe is an anti-flooding thing the forum has. Just have to wait a little bit between your searches. As for the sales section the link has already been posted there and you can definitely buy without spending money on membership.

I think the other gents have given good advice here though. If you're new to the hobby buy yourself a lower to middle range rep from a TD and get a feel for the watch before dropping any serious money on a build. There are some watches that we all love when looking at them but just don't like to wear for whatever reason, better to figure that out with a rep worth a couple of hundred dollars rather than a couple of thousand.

Hey Mitch, welcome to the forum. I've built my own watches and not used them so I can't really speak to who's good and who isn't but there are multiple modders or builders around the forum who will do the work of constructing the watched (I'm sure others will have recommendations).

As far as buying "finished" watches you have 2 options there, buying a stock watch from a TD, or buying a second hand watch. For the former look into the Trusted Dealers section and look for who may stock a 1655 or similar. For the latter keep an eye on the fora trading areas. 

If you're looking to build your own then I'd definitely recommend having a look across all the fora into previous builds, there's a lot of great information.

Best of luck. 

Welcome to the forum. Get reading.

Personally I'd be pretty cautious with any crosshair dial omega Seamaster's but that's just me. They are more often than not redials which can open up a whole bundle of issues. What's the seller location?

6 hours ago, Ronin said:

Why not develop an awesome female spy character like "Atomic Blonde" and just end Bond/007 in this 25th installment.  A Series Finale.  We have John Wick now, and the last 2 Mission Impossible movies have been superior anyway.

Or just do what Bond did for decades, have Bond show up in the next movie with a new actor and don't mention a thing.

If this goes on for more than a movie I'm out. As much as I liked 2 of Daniel Craig's performances I have no idea why he's back given his past disparaging comments about the role. If they continue with this pathway then the series will die. They already have ruined Blofeld sadly so it seems it may be another beloved series destroyed by ham-fisted political writing. 

14 hours ago, jackflash said:

Hopefully mine will arrive next week. I’ll post some shots then.

Look forward to seeing it. I'm pleasantly surprised they fixed the issues with this model. How bad were the rejected QCs?

On 4/20/2019 at 4:21 PM, jackflash said:

After two rounds of rejecting QC shots from Puretime. Primarily due to misaligned markers, pearl and poor pearl quality. Approved the third one. It’s winging its way to me now via the UK. I‘ll post some shots on arrival.

Absolutely gorgeous, have to get my hands on one of these.

Yes, it is fake, and very far from a good one.

On 4/21/2019 at 3:42 AM, mcreprog said:

Hi, 

 

I'm a new member who has been a watch repair hobbyist for a few years now and just got into building watches from parts.

 

I just received the Raffles 228206 Ice Blue Day-Date watch set (40mm) and am building it with a Sellita SW220-1 (2836-2 clone) movement.  I have built two other watches, including a Raffles Sub with a 2824 and another all-customer 2824-2 pilot style watch, so I'm not completely inexperienced.  Anyway, I started to assemble it and ran into the issue of how to fasten everything together.  The issue is that the day wheel diameter is larger than the OD of the movement.  The spacing of the dial feet is larger than the movement dial locations, and it is apparent that they are meant to fit into the holes in the supplied brass movement ring, which they do. 

 

However, since the dial feet connect to the movement ring and not the movement itself, there is nothing holding the movement in place that I can tell other than the hands on the front side of the dial and stem through the crown tube.  The casing clamps hold the brass ring to the case and press the dial to the case, but the movement is in between without any screws or springs and only the tolerances between it and the movement ring holding it steady.

 

Has anyone built this kit before?  The parts look to be high quality and good precision, but I don't get how they all go together without the movement shifting around in between the dial and the movement ring and the day ring scuffing against the dial backside.

 

let me know if you have any ideas!

 

Thanks,

Matt

 

Hi Matt1, 

Had just written out the whole order of the parts that mine was constructed but then looked and saw that the dial ring is completely different between our 2 builds mine does not have the brass ring, instead was a plastic ring. Not certain of the exact construction with the brass ring. On the up side for you, you have an already built day disk which saves you a hell of a lot of time over what I had to do :P

On 4/21/2019 at 9:32 PM, mymanmatt said:

good job!

Thanks Matt2,

Definitely a lot more work necessary on it but I'll eventually get around to fixing it all up.

There's been a quiet update to the Tudor Fifty-Eight. Lume and tube height look to be improved. 
Here are 2 QC shots from Puretime. Purchased by 2 different members within a few days of each other over on RWI:
 
Puretime QC 1:

 
Puretime QC 2: