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Everything posted by mymanmatt

  1. To renmove a balance assy, it is best if it is stopped. To suddenly loose full power to the drive train, can possibly damage members of the drive train. If you release the main spring gently, it’s almost guaranteed you will not damage any parts. Good luck. N
  2. Timing them is tricky. The brass piece on the bridge lever also adjust the speed. Turn right or left to find consistent speed in all positions. Then move that same lever in or out to speed it up or slow it down. Be sure your amplitude is sufficient before you do anything. It could take an hour or longer to time it. I assume you have a time graph and are not using kelo Good luck
  3. Be sure the screws are tight in the balance bridge.
  4. Ck your cannon piñon. The third wheel turns it too. The third wheel is the most sensitive of all. Sometimes it looks like it’s in the train bridge but it’s not. If you can’t see the post in the bridge, it’s not in place, and will break every time. Good luck. It will turn freely when you spin it and then break when you add pressure from the mainspring.
  5. I got your message. I can only respond through Tapatalk. Try me there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Can you email me? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Nuang, you need to email me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I can probably help, if your in the states. Lmk
  9. The 3055 is a thick movement. I doubt seriously if the caseback would go on. If it did I think it would lock the rotor down. I’m pretty sure about this.
  10. The 3135 will fit. But if you want the same dial, Sogeha is correct, 2824 is what's in there now.
  11. The gen hands are slightly shorter than the gen 16000. By slightly, I mean barely shorter.
  12. I have used the 3135 yuki in several datejust cases made for a 2824. The only issue I found, was the dial fitting in the groove under the rehaut. Some times the groove cut from the factory is a little to tight for the dial to seat flush with the bottom of the rehaut. In each case, I opened the groove just slightly and the dial would sit flush under the rehaut. Then the stem would line up perfectly. Hope this helps.
  13. Try removing the stem again. Be sure when you pull the stem to the time set position , that the set lever is all the way out in the yoke corrector. Then when you reinstall the stem that the set lever goes all the way in on the yoke corrector. I can’t imagine anything that would stop it, especially with the stop lever removed. Good luck
  14. No, it’s there. With it dial down and the stem on your right the release button is slightly above the stem. Press it very gently.
  15. I think the 2824 escape wheel is different than the 2836 and 34. I agree with everyone, if it’s a gen eta, pallet should work great
  16. Escape wheel must be steady. As you know, it spins quite freely with the pallet fork removed. The only time I’ve see an escape rock is because one of the staffs is broken, usually the one in the base plate, or I have changed the second or third wheel, and their the wrong one. Either could be to tall and not letting the train bridge seat properly. Then the escape wheel will wobble because it’s not fully in the jewel in the train bridge. Good luck.
  17. No! Any time you polish electro gold plating, you loose some of the plating. Not so on the new gold watches that have the “hot plating” process.
  18. I got your text. Typically when using a pipan dial, the first thing to ck is the position of the stem in the case tube. Be sure it's centered. Mount the movement in the case the way it will be when you're finished. You can raise or lower the movement with movement ring. Once that's done you can work on the hand height. Typically the long post hands are shorter in length than the standard hands, You will probably need to change the cannon pinon. I'm sure you've seen references to an H4. eta also makes an H5 which is usually what you need for a 4 digit build. You will need to change the hour wheel, the minute wheel, and the second wheel. The hour and minute are easy to change as it's just a swap. The second hand is a little harder because you need to remove the train bridge. This is not difficult, but it is very sensitive to alignment when you reinstall it. If you've never done it before it might be a good idea to take it to a watchsmith that is familiar with that process. If you want to try it, I'll help walk you through the process. Startime does not carry the H5 parts, but there is another popular supplier that does. Do you have the open 6 & 9 overlay? You need one for that build. Good luck and lmk if you have any questions.
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