mymanmatt

I have a black only.

You are correct.

No! Any time you polish electro gold plating, you loose some of the plating. Not so on the new gold watches that have the “hot plating” process.

I got your text. Typically when using a pipan dial, the first thing to ck is the position of the stem in the case tube. Be sure it's centered. Mount the movement in the case the way it will be when you're finished. You can raise or lower the movement with movement ring. Once that's done you can work on the hand height. Typically the long post hands are shorter in length than the standard hands, You will probably need to change the cannon pinon. I'm sure you've seen references to an H4. eta also makes an H5 which is usually what you need for a 4 digit build. You will need to change the hour wheel, the minute wheel, and the second wheel. The hour and minute are easy to change as it's just a swap. The second hand is a little harder because you need to remove the train bridge. This is not difficult, but it is very sensitive to alignment when you reinstall it. If you've never done it before it might be a good idea to take it to a watchsmith that is familiar with that process. If you want to try it, I'll help walk you through the process. Startime does not carry the H5 parts, but there is another popular supplier that does. Do you have the open 6 & 9 overlay? You need one for that build. Good luck and lmk if you have any questions.

Did you know that Gene Simmons from KISS got them started to fame. He did

Obey your instinct

Did you change the pallet fork or escape wheel? Those need to be matched. You never gave the numbers from your machine. What are they? Need the numbers in all 3 position

Mark, can’t remember the last time I saw a post from you. Hope you and yours are safe up there in the Seattle are.

Sorry, I forgot. I’ll ck to see if I have the springs and balls.

I have the complete bezel assy.

This problem is common. Take the yoke out, make sure it's not bent. Sometimes it will get a slight curve upward, or a slight curve in the long position. It should be straight. A slight bend downward does not hurt. Ck the retainer where it touches the yoke, at the clutch, and be sure it's touching. After you install the retainer, and push the lever on the retainer over the lever on the yoke, tighten the screw again. Good luck

I have seen the post on the cannon pinion not be flush with the wheel it sits in. It would bind up and stop it. I’ve also seen the hour wheel to close to one side of the dial hole. When I would tighten the crown the post on the hour wheel would touch the dial. As for keyless works stopping it, not really. Especially in a non hacking movement. Even if the yoke is out of the clutch, it should still run. You are sure there is no stop lever? Good luck.

It seems like some of my conversations disappear or go into a new conversation, about the same thing. I get a pm, and after we talk, it goes back to a conversation we had a month earlier, and I can't find the current conversation. It's not in the old conversation either. Is it just me?

That’s what it says. Are we in danger when we are on here? It says we are

Get a strong warning before I log in

Hmmm

I do some service on eta 28xx 2671. I do have a friend in Dallas not far from that does the 7750. It does take a while. But, he knows what he’s doing.

If you look on eBay, you can buy a set of hand reaming tool, or broach set and a hand removal tool.

What movement are you using?

I believe that’s to attach the rotor rivet on a 3135. When you look at the back side of the movement you will see a chrome rivet attaching the rotor to the reverse assy. That tool brads it to the reverse bridge. I think.

Don’t know why, but I love that black Daytona!

I don’t know if you’re old enough to remember the add. “Timex, takes a licking and keeps on ticking”. Truth in advertising! Lol

I tried all my life to get my dad to wear a Rolex. He would laugh at me. Why should I wear an expensive watch? I can buy a timex for $20, keeps perfect time, last 2 years before the battery gives up. Then I can throw it in the trash , but another one for $20 and good for another 2 years. Lol. His generation was so sensible. Lol

The top looks like the second link but the back looks like the first link. SA or yuki is anyone's guess. Lets say mine is an SA instead of yuki. The gen date wheel fits perfectly. They are very clean when I get them. They keep excellent time and the numbers on the machine are excellent. Good amplitude, very low beat error and easy to set the speed. They cost $50-$80 more than the asian 2824-2. The gen dial fits perfectly which means I don't have to cut the feet. Being able to use a gen date wheel makes the build so much cleaner and faster. If you spend $200-$400 for a dial, it's nice to keep the integrity of the dial. The stem lines up perfectly with the center of the case tube of a 2824-2 case. So lets withdraw the name yuki or SA. It's a really good movement and makes building a datejust much easier. I've had a couple of them out for several months and had no issues . For the price I think it's a better choice, whatever it is.

The top of mine is exactly the same, and I mean exactly, as the one in your link. 100% identical. The plates on the back may be different, but the base plate is the. Same If i hadn’t already put the watch together I would of course post a picture. And, mine is $150 less than the one in your link.