mymanmatt

Mine has the same date setting wheel. It's a small brass wheel, just like the one in your link. It's exactly the same from the top. The 2 sa that I have have the large stainless wheel. I'll post a pic This is the wheel I’m talking about. The one on the movement is smaller and brass. I cannot fit the gen date wheel on the SA without modding it. This one fits perfectly.

I don’t even know what you mean when you say “killy”. I know nothing about these watches. I went over there last week to pick up a couple of crowns and he had one of his trays out of the safe. These were in the tray with another 7 or 8 watches. I thought they were interesting, and took some pictures. He said they were gen and that’s what I go by. Maybe he said they are worth $70,000 not $700,000. He is hard to understand sometimes. Either way they are out of my price range. These are not for sale. Just thought I would put the pics up. If you think they are fake, look away. If you’ve never seen watches like these, just have a look.

Let’s agree to disagree. Of course he’s not shady. Very well respected in our city.

I assure you it is 100% I trust my Rolex dealer more than anyone. He is certified and has been for 40 years. All he does, is watches.

Nope, all 100% gen.

I buy these from my supplier in Hong Kong. They come from the factory that yuki uses. They do have serial numbers, but the setting and reverse bridge are not engraved. A gen date wheel fits and operates perfect without any mod. The run good too.

3 watches in a dealer friend of mines safe. All keeping perfect time. Enjoy

Did anyone advise on your click spring? If not I think you should go with the gen. The aftermarket click springs seem to loose tension. The material the gen is made from is stronger than the aftermarket. At least that's what I think. I've done a couple this year and after a couple of months, the bezels with the aftermarket have lost their snap when rotating. The gen continues to work properly.

Is that a gen air king dial?

So, turns out it must be my phone. Nothing on my computer. It started after I updated my phone.

Automatico, I don't think you should have second thoughts about your 2879. I have a couple in stock and have used a lot of them over the years. I agree it's a very old movement, but the ones I have and the ones I've used seem to be very reliable. I have some that have been out for years and are still running great. But like you, I scratch my head and say , " how can that be". The movement world is, and always has been craaaazy! My guess would be that withholding movements is the beginning of another price increase. I'm sure in a few months they will become available for considerably more money.

They have done this a couple of times over the past 15 years. A few years ago, I called the factory to see If I could buy movements and parts direct from them. Of course the answer was, NO! She was somewhat helpful though because she gave me the phone number of a distributor close by. I called and was quoted $275 each and needed to buy 100 movements. That did not work out. lol In the mid 80's there was a supply house in dallas that sold swiss eta movements. The 2836-2 and 2834-2 were $27.50 each. If I bought 3 or more they cost $25 each. The 2824-2 was $22. My how times change.

Like the title says. Are these adds coming from my phone or Rwg? If they are from Rwg can I stop them? Lmk

It seems to me that the ceramic subs, with the yuki movement are a fantastic buy. They look great!

I'm surprised if the crown works properly. The stem position on the 2824 is different than the 2836. The stem must be lower in the case tube than the 2824. I don't see how the stem can be in the center of your case tube and everything working correctly. But you say it's ok, and that's good enough. When cases are made, they are made for a 2824 or 2836. The only difference in the cases is where they place the case tube. Up for 2824, down for a 2836. Good luck

Interesting post. My luck with the clones has been good. However, over the past year I have noticed a repeat problem with several movements. For some reason the mainspring tub gets in a bind with the fourth wheel. The watch stops. I take my fingernail and rock the mainspring tub back and forth and it will begin to run. It continues to run without any problem. I've had a couple out for a year and they are still running. I've been searching for a reason for this problem, but to date I cannot figure out what causes this. As for the keyless works, if I don't remove the stem in the time set position, I cannot get it back in place. The set lever will not allow me to fully engage the stem. In my opinion the swiss are worth the extra money. Of course they have problems too, but not nearly as often as the clones. The quality of the parts and the fit is much better in the swiss than the clones. I've also noticed in the past few years a difference in the quality of clones. Some seem to be really cheaply made and others seem to be really good with better quality parts. I think the suppliers know which one of the clones is better. Those are the ones I request when buying from my supplier. Good luck to all!

Be sure your buckle is centered. Close the buckle , hold the watch by the case in front of you. If the buckle is not level, or close to level, remove a link from the side hanging down and put it on the other side. Then ck it again. That will change the fit completely. May help solve your problem. Good luck

Remember the spring washer goes UNDER the clicker spring.

This is gen. They were not plated they were capped. If you look closely at the bottom of the lug, you will see the edge of the gold cap. I’ve serviced a couple of these. It’s 14k gold overlay, including the bracelet.

At times it can be very frustrating. They are on the side of the buyer. But, as long as you know the rules you can play by them. The buyer has plenty of time to decide if he or she is satisfied with their purchase. If they complain, paypal will put a hold on your account for that amount. However, if it is gift or friends and family, they do nothing. If the buyer doesn't want to use gift, then don't make the sale. That's pretty simple. It's still a great way to get paid. Good luck to all of you.

I do have a gen and an aftermarket. The aftermarket overlay has the open 26 and 29

I think I have two. I’ll ck I also have a gen I’ll let you know

I suggest you put your glue from the back, not the front. If you put a tiny drop of glue from the backside, when you loop it you will see a very small dot of glue in the hole. Then carefully install your stick. After the glue dries sand the back of the dial smooth. One of the ways I test dials is to put the dial in a clear plastic dial box with foam. The foam supports the dial and keeps it from moving. Tape the box closed and drop it from about 1 foot from the floor. After you take it out of the box, ck that each stick is still firmly in place. That is just a test I use on diamond bezels and dials to ck for any loose items. If you're not comfortable doing that, then don't. It's not advice, just something I do. Good luck

Automatico is correct. If the crystal is tight after you install the crystal retainer, you're good to go. Be sure you remove the movement before you pressure test. If it passes your test, you can be confident it will pass the same test after assembly is complete. Good luck.

Me too. It’s been years since they offered a complete balance. In the 80’s there was a supply house in dallas called swest. I could buy eta 2836-2 for $26. I could get get 2824-2 for $22. If I bought 3 or more at a time, I could save another 15%. If I had only known. Lol