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mymanmatt

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Everything posted by mymanmatt

  1. I have a gen nipple dial and it is 27.4mm. I also have rep nipple dial and it is 28,8mm. I have a rep maxi dial and it is 28.3. I don't think the mfg"s use the same dial supplier
  2. They are identical, nearly. If you remove the day wheel on the 2834-2 the fit will be the same. The day wheel on a 2834-2 is above the date wheel. On a 2836-2 the day wheel is even with the date wheel. It appears to me the cannon pinon is slightly higher on the 2834 giving you a slightly better hand stack.
  3. I remember that story. I think he used different versions 2 or 3 times. It was always a family emergency. A different version each time. But always the same excuse.
  4. I don't fully understand exactly which parts you are refering to. Can you be more specific? When you say you broke the hook on the set lever, are you talking about the yoke corrector?
  5. The lever with the brass piece is the speed lever. Push it away from the lever with the stainless piece. That will speed it up. You do know without a timegraph you are only guessing. Before you do your adjustment find a reference point so you can return the lever to it"s original spot. I do not recommend you do this without a machine or a kello app.at the very least. Sometimes the levers are so sensitive, you can't even see it move and it can make 30 seconds difference. Good luck
  6. Messinapete, you are new to this forum, I can see. I don't know if you're new to the rep world or not. Let's assume you are new to the rep world. Most people and dealers that do business on this and other forums are blessed by the admin. That's not to say problems don't arise. If you do anything long enough, you may have an occasional problem. The proper response to any problem is to contact the admin. They are equal and fair to both sides. If it's buyers remorse, they will probably suggest to the seller to refund the money. The reason will be, it's not worth it. However, they may recommend the seller deliver the piece and at least give the buyer a chance to see it in person. Then the deal can be discussed. Usually if the buyer is not happy, they will ask for it to be returned and the deal cancelled. That is just an example, the admin work with both the buyer and the seller. Over the years I have seen the admin banish many dealers and repair men. They actively monitor the forum and are always watching for anyone not doing as they should. If you paid with paypal, you should never file a claim without contacting the admin first. They realize it's only a good deal if both parties are happy.
  7. Yes. He said he was new to the rep world, then said he had bought several watches from lucy over the years. Then said he had been on rwi for a long time. Then said he would not open a claim with pp. One hour and 45 minutes later he did. I was almost finished with his watch, and he insisted I stop and refund him. He said because 2 guys on rwi said stonep and I could not be trusted. Then he said I had been banned from rwi . That is true, around 6 or 7 years ago. They had a good reason to ban me, I told them " they could kiss my ass" Bam, lifetime ban. LOL
  8. Will do. He said he was not a member here, just rwi. Of course he lied about several things, so who knows
  9. Yes. A guy from overseas somewhere, a member at RWI, asked aug 5th would I build a pres, and paid, Saturday the 11'th he filed an "item not received" dispute with pp. PP and I are pretty sure it was buyers remorse. Sat night he added more about why he wanted to stop the transaction. It was getting dangerous at PP, so I refunded him and blocked him. His second post on PP was a complaint that I would not give him the source of my gen parts supplier.
  10. Noobs, please refrain from involving paypal in ANY parts of you transactions. Before you put the sellers and possibly your acct in jeopardy, contact the admins about Any problem. If you do, and it's unjustified you will probably be banned. If you make a purchase of any kind and you suffer buyers remorse or any other issue, go to help on the forum you made the deal on. DO NOT USE PAYPAL TO SOLVE YOUR PROBLEM!!!! PLEASE !!!!!
  11. I have that dial in silver and blk. If it helps.
  12. Have you wound it? You do know automatics need winding when they run down. Unscrew the crown, it will pop out, that's the winding position. Turn the crown away from you 40 times that will fully wind it.
  13. I don't think you should open it up unless you know what you're doing. You could make things worse. Most likely the second hand is barely touching another hand. I think ssteel is your best bet. He can also ck your movement and time it if need be.
  14. You can do that, but it will require a lot of modifying. I think one of the problems you will run into, is the buckles fold differently. The short end of the old style will have to go on the long end of the new style, and vice versa. I can't imagine why you would want to do that, but it is your watch and you can do whatever you want to. Good luck!!
  15. Good morning. I just want to give you a quick comparison of kelo to timegraph. With kelo you can only set the speed. It also seems to have an error of 5-10 seconds + or - per day. If you are using kelo, be sure and move only the lever with the brass top. DO NOT MOVER THE ONE WITH THE SILVER TOP. THAT IS THE BEAT LEVER!!!!! With timegraph you not only can adjust the speed but the beat error and actually change the amplitude. Adjusting a watch on timegrapher is quite complicated and requires a lot of patience. With a timegrapher you can move the lever with the silver top, but be very careful, because it is very very sensitive. The combinations of adjustments on a movement are almost endless. When regulating a movement make ONE, AND ONLY ONE ADJUSTMENT AT A TIME. If you change positions on the timegraph, in other words move from dial down to the side position, give it at least 1-2 minutes to stabilize. The only way to know how to adjust a movement is on the job training. I suggest you start with an old movement to see what changes your input does. It will take a while to learn what happens when you move something. It can take a long time, so be patient, you'll get it.
  16. Towards the end of the video you see him install the stop lever. It's a brass L shaped piece. The long side stops the balance when you pull the stem out. The short side sits in the clutch, or sliding pinion. The yoke sits on top of the clutch, the stop lever sits in the side of the clutch.
  17. Yes, the way you are removing the stem is correct. Sometimes, just the slightest amount of of to much pressure will push the set lever out of the yoke corrector. Then when you push the stem in, it will let the yoke slip out of the clutch.
  18. The usual problem is the YOKE. When the set lever is pushed up to far, it lets the YOKE slip out of the CLUTCH and then nothing works. If you've never been in the keyless before, it will seem complicated, but it's not. Be sure and perform these steps with the stem in the watch. Here we go step by step by step. 1 the movement is facing you and that means the stem is on your right. 2 you see the silver plate over the keyless works and it has 1 screw holding it at the top. remove the screw. The plate will come off. Here is what you will see. A very small gear next to the larger brass gear. The piece that tiny gear sits on is called the YOKE CORRECTOR. It moves up and down when you pull or push the stem. Next to that tiny gear you will see a thin long metal piece attached to a dowel pin at the top. That is the YOKE. Beneath the YOKE is another tiny gear with a slot in it, laying in a groove, that is the CLUTCH. It also moves in and out with the stem. To the right you will see what's called the SET LEVER. It's the largest single piece of the keyless. When you push the small pin on the back side of the movement to release the stem, that's is the piece your are pushing. Are you still with me? 3 remove the YOKE from the dowel pin. It has to come straight up. 4 reinstall the YOKE into the small slot of the CLUTCH and put the YOKE back over the dowel pin. 5 be sure to check that the SET LEVER is in the YOKE CORRECTOR. It will sit flush on top of the YOKE CORRECTOR when it's in place. 6 when you feel certain everything is in place, reinstall the large silver plate that you removed to access the keyless. 7 start the screw but do not tighten it yet. At the bottom of that piece you will see some notches. On the SET LEVER you will see a pin. Push the notches to the side of that pin. It will have a small amount of tension. 8 at the top by the screw, to the right you will see a thin piece of metal. Below it you will see the top of the YOKE. Push that piece of metal to the right so it pops to side of the YOKE. 9 Tighten the screw. You have now repaired your keyless works. I hope I haven't made this to difficult to understand. Good luck to you.
  19. Sorry no pics. So the other day I had serviced an asian 2836-2. The numbers were great. speed +5 sec, amplitude 280, beat error 0.0. I installed the rotor assy. To my surprise amplitude dropped to 240. After scratching my head for a bit, i found it. 2 screws hold the rotor assy on the baseplate. One is by the balance bridge. To my surprise the bridge on the rotor assy overlapped the balance bridge, slightly. When I tightened the screw on the rotor bridge, it actually put the slightest amount of pressure on the balance bridge. Never saw it before. I cut the rotor bridge back slightly so it cleared the balance bridge. Installed it, and amplitude back to 280. I cked a couple of other asian rotor assy, same thing. That may slowly develop into a bigger problem and may eventually stop the movement. Just thought I would share.
  20. The answer to your question is very simple. Whatever number of watches you have is enough. However, if you see a watch you don't have, and you want it, then you don't have enough. You need one more!
  21. Spiedel, if I spelled it right, made the "twist o flex" bracelet a long time ago. They also made some of the early oyster bracelets for Rolex. Yes they did!!
  22. I love looking at this section. A lot of the same old, but also some watches I never knew existed.
  23. I agree. 3 months is to long. The buyer has to confirm that the watch is what was described in a reasonable amount of time. That would be in the first week. After three months, he owns it, regardless.
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