mymanmatt

One of my dealers sells the italian 18K bracelet. However, he only stocks the regular president bracelet. He is able to buy the oyster, but he special orders it because he hardly gets a request for one. The reg president is $3700. Add $100 to have a gold crown added. I have no idea what he charges for an oyster.

Sold it about 10 years ago. It is actually what got me started in the business. I had it about a year and it just stopped. Rolex was in New York then, not Dallas where I am. I called them and they said a service starts at $300 and at least 90 days. WHAT!!! To shorten a long story, my jeweler friend told me where to buy a case back opener set. I did, and when I took the back off, I saw a screw had come out of the balance bridge and was laying loose. I owned a paint and body shop, and in keeping with the attitude of most body men, I felt I could fix anything LOL. Gently I put the screw in, and it started running again. I thought to myself, HELL YES, I CAN FIX ANYTHING!!!! LOL. It did peak my interest, and I was off and running to learn more about watches. I still use that same Bergeon case back opener today. I could also buy swiss 2834-2 and 2824-2 from a supply house in Dallas. If I bought at least 3 at a time, the price was $25.00 each. My how times have changed. Here is another interesting foot note. If I needed a crown, a date or day wheel, a stem or anything else, I could call New York, and they would send it to me. Quite a different story today.

I can't post any pictures, but I think you will find this amusing. It's a true story. In 1985 my bookie ( yes I used to bet football every week) called me on a tuesday. He said he took a big hit the weekend before and needed $3500. He had his double quick day-date and could I buy it from him. I said yes and sent my sec to the bank to get the cash, and he sent his runner with the watch at the same time. The deal was made, and about 10 mins later my bookie called to say he found the money and didn't need to sell the watch. What would you do? I told him I was sorry, but the deal is done. I had to find another bookie. Needless to say I loved the watch.

That's funny Order me one too!

Trying to get in touch with stonep. Says he can't receive messages.

I don't know, but I sure like it.

I have a gen nipple dial and it is 27.4mm. I also have rep nipple dial and it is 28,8mm. I have a rep maxi dial and it is 28.3. I don't think the mfg"s use the same dial supplier

No, a 2824 disc will not fit the 2836.

They are identical, nearly. If you remove the day wheel on the 2834-2 the fit will be the same. The day wheel on a 2834-2 is above the date wheel. On a 2836-2 the day wheel is even with the date wheel. It appears to me the cannon pinon is slightly higher on the 2834 giving you a slightly better hand stack.

I remember that story. I think he used different versions 2 or 3 times. It was always a family emergency. A different version each time. But always the same excuse.

I don't fully understand exactly which parts you are refering to. Can you be more specific? When you say you broke the hook on the set lever, are you talking about the yoke corrector?

The lever with the brass piece is the speed lever. Push it away from the lever with the stainless piece. That will speed it up. You do know without a timegraph you are only guessing. Before you do your adjustment find a reference point so you can return the lever to it"s original spot. I do not recommend you do this without a machine or a kello app.at the very least. Sometimes the levers are so sensitive, you can't even see it move and it can make 30 seconds difference. Good luck

Messinapete, you are new to this forum, I can see. I don't know if you're new to the rep world or not. Let's assume you are new to the rep world. Most people and dealers that do business on this and other forums are blessed by the admin. That's not to say problems don't arise. If you do anything long enough, you may have an occasional problem. The proper response to any problem is to contact the admin. They are equal and fair to both sides. If it's buyers remorse, they will probably suggest to the seller to refund the money. The reason will be, it's not worth it. However, they may recommend the seller deliver the piece and at least give the buyer a chance to see it in person. Then the deal can be discussed. Usually if the buyer is not happy, they will ask for it to be returned and the deal cancelled. That is just an example, the admin work with both the buyer and the seller. Over the years I have seen the admin banish many dealers and repair men. They actively monitor the forum and are always watching for anyone not doing as they should. If you paid with paypal, you should never file a claim without contacting the admin first. They realize it's only a good deal if both parties are happy.

Yes. He said he was new to the rep world, then said he had bought several watches from lucy over the years. Then said he had been on rwi for a long time. Then said he would not open a claim with pp. One hour and 45 minutes later he did. I was almost finished with his watch, and he insisted I stop and refund him. He said because 2 guys on rwi said stonep and I could not be trusted. Then he said I had been banned from rwi . That is true, around 6 or 7 years ago. They had a good reason to ban me, I told them " they could kiss my ass" Bam, lifetime ban. LOL

Will do. He said he was not a member here, just rwi. Of course he lied about several things, so who knows

Yes. A guy from overseas somewhere, a member at RWI, asked aug 5th would I build a pres, and paid, Saturday the 11'th he filed an "item not received" dispute with pp. PP and I are pretty sure it was buyers remorse. Sat night he added more about why he wanted to stop the transaction. It was getting dangerous at PP, so I refunded him and blocked him. His second post on PP was a complaint that I would not give him the source of my gen parts supplier.

Noobs, please refrain from involving paypal in ANY parts of you transactions. Before you put the sellers and possibly your acct in jeopardy, contact the admins about Any problem. If you do, and it's unjustified you will probably be banned. If you make a purchase of any kind and you suffer buyers remorse or any other issue, go to help on the forum you made the deal on. DO NOT USE PAYPAL TO SOLVE YOUR PROBLEM!!!! PLEASE !!!!!

I have that dial in silver and blk. If it helps.

Have you wound it? You do know automatics need winding when they run down. Unscrew the crown, it will pop out, that's the winding position. Turn the crown away from you 40 times that will fully wind it.

I don't think you should open it up unless you know what you're doing. You could make things worse. Most likely the second hand is barely touching another hand. I think ssteel is your best bet. He can also ck your movement and time it if need be.

100% agree with sstee;

You can do that, but it will require a lot of modifying. I think one of the problems you will run into, is the buckles fold differently. The short end of the old style will have to go on the long end of the new style, and vice versa. I can't imagine why you would want to do that, but it is your watch and you can do whatever you want to. Good luck!!

Good morning. I just want to give you a quick comparison of kelo to timegraph. With kelo you can only set the speed. It also seems to have an error of 5-10 seconds + or - per day. If you are using kelo, be sure and move only the lever with the brass top. DO NOT MOVER THE ONE WITH THE SILVER TOP. THAT IS THE BEAT LEVER!!!!! With timegraph you not only can adjust the speed but the beat error and actually change the amplitude. Adjusting a watch on timegrapher is quite complicated and requires a lot of patience. With a timegrapher you can move the lever with the silver top, but be very careful, because it is very very sensitive. The combinations of adjustments on a movement are almost endless. When regulating a movement make ONE, AND ONLY ONE ADJUSTMENT AT A TIME. If you change positions on the timegraph, in other words move from dial down to the side position, give it at least 1-2 minutes to stabilize. The only way to know how to adjust a movement is on the job training. I suggest you start with an old movement to see what changes your input does. It will take a while to learn what happens when you move something. It can take a long time, so be patient, you'll get it.

Towards the end of the video you see him install the stop lever. It's a brass L shaped piece. The long side stops the balance when you pull the stem out. The short side sits in the clutch, or sliding pinion. The yoke sits on top of the clutch, the stop lever sits in the side of the clutch.

Yes, the way you are removing the stem is correct. Sometimes, just the slightest amount of of to much pressure will push the set lever out of the yoke corrector. Then when you push the stem in, it will let the yoke slip out of the clutch.