Gw4k

Thanks guys. Yeah, I'm aware that these used to go for that kind of money. I've seen some where they have the original receipt from when the original G.I. owner bought it at the PX somewhere in Southeast Asia for around $175-200. Still blows my mind, though. And yes - a little devil appeared on my shoulder and whispered bad things in my ear at that moment too. Integrity always prevails, however. Glad you all enjoyed it.

great character!

meters first, wow...you just dont see those in the wild.

most collectors who buy them, stuff them into deposits boxes. a shame really

Before you try to work on the movement...push the detent button and remove the stem. Then push the detent button again and insert the stem as far as it will go while slowly twisting it back and forth a few degrees and release the button. Pull out on the crown and see if it will click out into setting position. If it does, push the crown in to winding position and see if you can wind the watch. If it will set and wind...it is Ok. If not, read the paragraph below.

That is a Seagull ST6D. They are easy to work on, but only after you memorize how the autowind assembly goes back together. To fix what is wrong (set lever out of position) you need to remove the aw assembly first, but there is always catch...if there is any power on the mainspring, little bitty stuff will fly everywhere when you remove the two screws that hold the aw assembly together. Anyway, what has to be done after removing the aw assembly is to remove the screw from the big wheel on the mainspring bridge and then remove the mainspring bridge. Next, take the two little gears out of the slot where the stem went through them to expose the set lever and push the set lever back into place and put it all back together.

Nothin' to it. I have had so many of these cussed ST6 set levers slip by that I can reset the set lever in about 10 or 12 minutes. I am not bragging, I am complaining.

Some tips on the ST6D...

It has a plastic date part or two and if you try to quick set the date while it is changing, it can break a plastic part and the date will not work properly.

You can let the power off the mainspring by placing a screwdriver in the screw in the center of the big wheel on the ms bridge and tightening it a tiny bit to take tension off the click spring and then move the click spring away from the ms wheel teeth while slowly letting the power off the ms by allowing the screwdriver to turn as the ms unwinds. This sounds a lot more complicated than it really is.

Or you can do what I do...unscrew the screw on the big wheel and lift the wheel off and let it 'fly down' all at once. This is against all proper procedure but it is quick and easy. After all...it's a $15 movement.

If you break anything, let me know and I will send the parts gratis...for some reason I have a lot of leftovers.

Awesome post thanks.

I was told to do exactly what you posted. The Release button was stuck on the down position.

So I kept the button pressed and kept taking the crown/stem in and out, wiggling trying to get the button unstuck....then I broke the stem!

All in all, I think I mucked the keyless works in there. I ordered new DG2813s and stems from Ofrei and will use this movement as a practice movement to take apart and put together.

Thanks for the post again, I will take it apart and learn on this one.

looks very nice, glad to be here

I think I messed up the Keyless, stem doesnt insert, please identify it so I can search solutions:

What watch are you looking for?

I really do not see what the big deal is with the crown and the CGs.And I own the Gen lol:

I seriously doubt someone is going to call you out on these "flaws"

ZOmG that dude has a fake, look at those CGs!

GEN? That blue insert is to die for.

1680 whites go from 4-6k depending on supporting docs, condition and most importantly buyer emotion.

I would say yours would be 4 ish.

Good luck

Details!

Yuki Dial?

Great looking great white shark.

That's what was odd on this build.....the case was sold to me as a cartel version but I've had those and yes they all had the dw alignment issue. This watch has never had that problem. I'm thinking it could be an earlier cartel case though. Also all gen parts fit without an issue.

thats a really lucky find. I have been itching to build a nice 1680 for awhile now.

I am almost about to give up and just order a more expensive yuki 1680 case.

but half the fun is finding the right parts, isnt it?

My GEN Snowflake on a HR Bracelet

I got lucky and picked up the base on a sales thread. Since then pb worked a lot of magic on it. I can't stress how nice his work is on the bracelet.....this sells it for me

I've been on a lookout for old school cartel cases on 3 forums...

All the new ones are just plain fat looking for a vintage build

Great looking build!

I have been on a hunt for a slim case. It seems that is the hardest part, all of the available cases are a tad too thick.

Crown guards are an easy fix on this one imo. The crystal would bug me a lot more. Rehaut is a little fat, too, but nothing that couldn't be turned down. If it would take a gen crystal this would be an awesome rep!

Thats the funny thing about us reppers, we are a paranoid bunch.

The Regular Joe Schmoe would not notice the difference.

Reps have come a long way since I last played.

What can $128 buy you? Lets take a look (Green arrow for Gen, Red for Rep):

First Tell is the Pearl of the Bezel Insert. But to this day, it is the most common mistake on a rep:

I bought a Clarks Replacement Bezel insert :

http://www.ebay.com/...#ht_1240wt_1396

But I do not know yet if I am only taking the pearl or replacing the bezel. Because the Bezel Font is spot on:

0-15 minutes:

20 minutes:

30 minutes:

40 and 50 minutes:

In fact, most of the watch face is spot on:

Slight angle to show the Hour Marker Surrounds are correct thickness:

Even the lume is accurate:

Bezel Teeth is correct:

Now on to the case:

The second biggest tell is the Escape Valve. The Gen is polished while the Rep is dull: [bLINK]CORRECTION:[/bLINK] I have been informed that later SDs have matte escape valves, so this is accurate per serial #M of the rep.

Crystal is just slightly taller:

Crown position is lower than gen:

Lugs are pretty close:

The Caseback is the closest/ best I have ever seen, correct font and Rolex Crowns:

On to the Bracelet:

This is where it fails, but no one will see it:

Clasp:

Weight and feel is EXACTLY the same:

Video of Movement sweep:

https://vimeo.com/42226379

CONCLUSION:

Overall a GREAT OUT OF THE BOX BUY FOR $128 + shipping from ANDREW of Trusty.

I bought it here:

http://www.trustytim...roducts_id=9252

With minor modding, Change the Pearl (or Pop it out) you have a great rep. I liked it so much, I ordered a 2nd one as a backup. I always have a backup to my favorites.

Others have swam in the pool with it and have no problems. I have not tested that, yet.

UPDATE: NEW PEARL ON FACTORY BEZEL

I just changed the Pearl. Took the pearl from an ebay aftermarket bezel for my 14060:

CHANGING THE PEARL

I used an exacto knife to lift the old pearl out of the bezel. I chose to do this over taking the whole bezel out. I am really good at mauling inserts trying to insert them back.

BEFORE:

After "lifting" the bad pearl out and comparing to Gen and the New Pearl

New Pearl sat too high, hand drilled with a drill bit, ONE TURN AT A TIME. Shave and test set the pearl, shave and test set.

Try to shave while forcing more pressure on the BASE of the upside down triangle so you can keep most of the TIP of the triangle.

Took me 2 turns only.

You want the friction of the bezel vs the cup of the pearl as the main source of holding it in. I added a dab of crazy glue around the cup for insurance.

AFTER:

5/29/12 UPDATE: POOL TEST

Whats Memorial Day without BBQ and Pool time! I swam with the SD shallow and Deep End, NO PROBLEMS whatsoever.

I just checked again (day after) and no condensation inside.

BUT ALWAYS RINSE your watch (gen or rep) after going into the pool to wash off the salt or chlorine from the O-rings.

Mine is 93150