RWG Technical

From your description, I would say you need a 21.6K balance, so yes, you need a donor movement or balance assembly... And a new knowledgeable watchmaker, bummer since he was so close. If they can't figure out the basics, and break more than they fix, they are to be avoided at all costs, even if they live next door RG

Very simple problem, staring us right in the face... Your watchmaker installed a 28,800 BPH balance on a 21,600 BPH movement. Simple problem and this should be readily apparent to any watchmaker, it's like an accountant not being able to add up two numbers... 21,600 BPH = 360 BP minute = 6 per second 28,800 BPH = 480 BP minuite = 8 per second Delta is +120 BP minute, divide by 8 = 15 seconds. I strongly suggest you find another watchmaker, if this problem escaped him, and your chrono isn't working either, stay away from this fellow...he hasn't a clue... RG

Wow, that was a fast trip. Great pictures, much better lume shots than mine. Wear it well. RG

It is the sum of all the parts that make these projects possible, remove one item, and it`s not the same. All I do is put all the parts together, without the PVD, or your cyclops, or the DW, or the crown, etc, it wouldn`t happen. I am just the one assembling it all, and adding a few final touches like the lume. This is what makes RWG the No.1 watch site, far better than any other, we all contribute and make things possible. RG

Case was original one, sent out and re-done with new PVD. @ sssurfer Not a problem, I'll have J take all my pics Good observation, this is your cyclops. RG

Wow, great find. RG

Long time friend, that is passing it on to the next family generation, and wanted it restored and running... Lest we forget. RG

Snow storm, stuck in the house...it has been a long time since I posted pics, so OVERDOSE today RG

I hope Dave is happy with the results. Going to install your crystal and yours is all done, serviced etc, time for some testing... Glad you like the pictures. - ssurfer It`s the lighting and distortion, the DW looks ok, if took a direct picture, you would see me in the crystal, and that would ruin everything... RG

Old pin is removed and discarded, top of CG is drilled for new larger pin, I then custom make a new pin on my lathe, fit it to the CG, then file and polish it down to blend in with the CG. It's perfectly flat and sitting at the same level as the CG. As part of the new pin, I also tighten the lever so it's not floppidy mopidy RG

Yes, the complete watch is Dave's, the dial close up picture is yours, ready to go later this week, just finishing it up. Tritium lume is my own special mix. RG

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Nice watch overall, but as you can see in this close up, the CG is TERRIBLE...yeach, whoever thought that pin was acceptable needs to give their head a shake. So a bit of lathe work, some filling and polishing, and you get a decent pin. At the same time, the lume was improved with some C3 Super Lume. Thanks for looking. RG

Neat looking watch, but even with my interest in aviation, I can't pull this one off... Relume in a couple of colours. Thanks for looking. RG

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Very cute, and the watches are nice also. I think she is saying "Daddy, you have too many PAM's...you must sell some..." RG

It's always been hit and miss for me...some bezels on the same model are simple to remove, others can't come off no matter what. After bending a couple of bezels, I decided to go the least risky route, and get it out via the crystal removal. Since I am normally taking the watch apart anyway for other work, popping the crystal is not a big deal. RG

Safest way for me, remove movement, remove crystal, gently pry old bezel out by slipping a caseback knife in the crystal opening and working your way around the bezel... RG

If something is rattling around inside, STOP wearing the watch until you figure out what the problem is. Otherwise, you will destroy the movement when the part rattling around gets caught up in the gears... RG

You shouldn't hand wind any automatic beyond a couple of gentle slow turns to get it started. Anything beyond this and you risk damaging the movement. Your spinning rotor is caused by the click wheel sticking. And, yes both andreww and toad beat me to it, again, blasted ! RG

I don't think the post is here anymore. As soon as Super Luminova was available, and given that SL is the same stuff that the genuine manufacturer's use, it didn't matter to compare it to anything else. I have been using SL exclusively since then. If your planning on doing lume, I suggest you get a couple of kits from them, well worth using the best product available. RG

I posted the comparison between AF and Super Luminova 4 years ago, and since then I only use Super Luminova. There is a reason that genuine manufacturer's mark the dials "L Swiss L" for Luminova, it's the best and brightest product available, and this is the reason it's expensive. You get what you pay for. The only dealer is direct from RC Tritec. RG

You have to replace all the parts with longer ones, in other words a longer hour wheel, a longer cannon pinion, and a longer GMT gear. RG

Well done and well documented. It takes a long time to get the hang of it, practice is the key, your well on your way. I am not surprised that the Flav "Nitro" lume is not much better than the AF lume, that should be made clear especially on RG so others know what they are buying. If RC Tritec with their scientists as well as the Japanese part of the company can't make anything brighter than Super Lume, someone mixing up stuff in their kitchen isn't going to fair any better. No surprise though given the source and past history of this individual. You should get a couple of kits of Super Lume direct from RC Tritec, it is much brighter than AF Lume (I have both and have compared them in the past) and my guess is brighter than the Nitro stuff. It's also much easier to apply than AF. Keep it up. RG