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RWG Technical

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Everything posted by RWG Technical

  1. Now that I think about it...it's probably 25 years of being too close to running jet engines that accounts for the quiet rotors...many of those years working a few feet from running F-18 engines, and you know they aren't very stealthy... My sense of smell is also gone, but that can be a blessing on 5-Alarm chili night RG
  2. The rotor should not spin on a ETA 2836 or any movement in this caliber range. It's a bi-directional winding movement and the rotor should be silent because it has resistance in both winding directions. If you hear a spinning rotor it sounds like you have an asian movement that is only unidirectional in winding, or one of the asian auto's with the magic wheel winding system. I also don't think the rollie's (genuine ones) are silent at all, in my experience most are noisier than the automatic ETA's due to the rotor flexing and hitting and wearing against the movement. I can't hear any of my ETA auto's when swirling them, they are all silent. RG
  3. Wow, what a story, sounds like the makings of a novel. So glad to hear it has been looking better, we have all been there, a number of years ago I said to myself "Well, this has to be the bottom, so tomorrow must be looking up..." and sure enough eventually things got better. And today, are much better than they ever were. RG
  4. Looks much better with the cyclops aligned. Nice work. RG
  5. To install the hands, I pick them up and position them with my #2 tweezers, then press them in place with the Bergeron tool, works ok for me... No lame questions, it's the only way to learn, than and practice, practice, practice, watchsmithing doesn't come easy. RG
  6. If the forks on the presto are too thick, buy a different version and polish them down. I think mine is a #5 one, I can't remember, but it works fine on all hands. Bergeron makes a less than $20 hand installation tool, get the one with the red and grey tips, it does 99% of all hand sizes. RG
  7. The washer in that picture from ajoe is a ETA part, I haven't seen it listed separetly for the 7750's, but it does come with a new ETA 7750 when you buy one. Dial washers can also be used, they are normally installed over the hour wheel, but work equally well on the day wheel. The problem is that the day wheel sits loose on the movement, and the back of the dial is the only thing holdin it in place. Any gap between the wheel and the dial, and it pops out of place... As for your procedure, each hand is removed alone, and you risk breaking the pivots off of the subdial hands by using the dial to push them off. RG
  8. I am no expert either, just using the feedback and comments from others. Certainly I know that Super Luminova is the best and brightest of lumes available. Thanks for the follow up. Indeed a sandwich dial will sometimes be brighter than a saussage one, normally PAM's, due to the amount of lume are very bright. Even the GMT PAM's which have a thin layer of SL (to allow the hands to clear the dial) glows quite bright. The feedback I have got mostly indicated that the ones I applied SL to, were as bright, or in some cases brighter than the gen's. Interesting that yours was so dim compared to the 111... RG
  9. That makes no sense to me. Genunine PAM's use standard Super Luminova C3, I use the same stuff, direct from RC Tritec, and I think Vaccume does also. I have compered and have had many customers compare genuines with SL to my SL, and in each case my lume was as bright as the genuine watches. SL is the best of the best, C3 is the brightest there is, so there can't be any difference... On this model, I do agree with everyone, I have lumed one of mine, with my tritium mix, which has very little glow, just like real tritium. RG
  10. A response depends on the question and how it was asked, and how it was addressed. Not everyone gets an answer, courtesy is a 2-way street. Glad I could help, welcome aboard. RG
  11. If your local watchmaker can't figure out this problem, then you need to find a new one. He's not knowledgeable and probably not skilled enough to service it correctly. The problem is simple to see from your description. RG
  12. Again, really sorry that this was not visible, not sure why I guess it was a general board setting, not something I did or didn't do. Thanks for the comments, hopefully this will get more viewing and help our members in being more informed. As always, comments or feedback always welcome, positive, negative, or whatever... RG
  13. I only have a watchmaker's lathe, no capability to machine anything like a case. (I won't repeat this in the PM, better here so everyone knows my capability) I have trimmed many dials down to fit the cases, not easy and not without risk, essentially you have to grind down the outer edge... RG
  14. I had spent hours editing and updating my technical information posts, and I populated my area with them, but didn't see any hits and no responses. I just figured no one was interested in the topics that were there, eventhough I did see many questions being asked, that the answers were already here. With Toadtorrent's great newbie guide, I have just realized that parts of my subforum have been invisible all along...which accounts for the lack of interest in them. Here is a link to one of the sections that should be a benifit to any new member, or someone who wants to learn more. Click here for technical information Sorry about that, I didn't know they weren't visible. Hopefully the other sections and posts are visible to everyone, of course they are visible to me, but I don't know what you see or don't see. RG
  15. Something is clearly not right, I think Pugwash is correct, you should have a watchmaker check and fix the hands if they are touching, there is no other explaination for this problem. RG
  16. Something is clearly not right, I think Pugwash is correct, you should have a watchmaker check and fix the hands if they are touching, there is no other explaination for this problem. RG
  17. I have managed to salvage similar finished dials, careful sanding and then clear matt coating with no orange peel should fix it, no promises as you know how this stuff can go, but I will do my best... It is lumable (is that a word?) RG
  18. Since the GMT hand is geared to the hour one, it would seem as if the gearing is not correct. If the hours are working ok, then the GMT should also be... RG
  19. Is it out of alignment at all hours? It's probably a simple hand alignment issue, but keep in mind that most dials are not printed exactly, meaning that the hands will line up perfectly at some hours, and be off at others. I have yet to have a GMT model that the GMT hand and the minute and hour hands all lined up all around the dial, normally half or so line up perfectly, and the other half of the markers are off...it's just the way it is... RG
  20. Understood, I'll have a look, fyi J and I are on the road this week until Sunday, but I can still access email and RWG obviously RG
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