DC109

Both great ideas--I don't have calipers. The dials I tried are only too big by a fraction of a millimeter, so too small and precise a measurement for me to get with a ruler. I know a genuine dial should be 27.4mm, so I'm hoping all the reps I have tried are just too close to 28 to fit the precise cutout for a gen case... but maybe I've just got to get some calipers.

Hello experts, I picked up a "gen" 16613 case years ago and it has been sitting in the parts drawer. I decided to start a build, but found that the first several dials I dropped in are too big. They include: a 2017 JF 16610 (back when some of them had slightly large dials/movements), a 2016 Noob V6 116610LV, and a TC KH dial. Maybe this is because the gen case has tighter tolerances, but it has me worried the case is a very good looking but badly performing rep. Here are some photos--I'm hoping others can weigh in!

You have a 93250 SEL bracelet on there. Anything before 1999 would definitely have hollow end links. One more step!

I'd ask for closeups of each SEL-lug point. Based on the bottom pic, it looks like it's nearly flush. Unless it's just an off pic, JF bracelet fitment is generally better than that.

Does this have the working HEV like Noob claims the 116660 does?

Can we see the front? I'd love to know how the JF dial lines up with a TC case, given that the JF rehaut looks a little wokkier.

One other thing to consider: the real genius of a GMT is that you don't have to set the hour to change your second time at all. Why not just use the bezel? Remember these were invented for pilots who changed time zones often enough that they needed a way to avoid not only the hassle, but also wear and tear on the movement, crown and tube of resetting their watch with every trip. To each their own, but to me, using the independent hour hand instead of the bezel to change your second time defeats the purpose.

The rounded top surface on all four lugs and the melted-looking ends of the CGs make pretty clear that this has been heavily polished. I know less about dial details and second hand sizes than the experts here, but if the seller is claiming it has "never been polished" when it obviously has been, I'd view his other claims as suspect too. Good thing you didn't trade in your Explorer!

The Italian seller is Marcello Comezzi, who is based in Italy. All of his cases that I have seen on eBay have been great looking. Too bad he tries to pass them off as genuine on there, especially since he readily offers to make you whatever vintage case you want if you email him. His site is http://marcellocomezzi.com

I have wondered the same, and never found any options. As gen prices for 16570 and 16710 climb, it's surprising no one has made a GMT case. in the TC/Sean/Phong quality range.

The first bit of "Arabic" above the cannons doesn't say anything. The part below seems to say "al-makramti," which doesn't mean anything, an isn't a name Google has ever heard of.

Will post one tomorrow. In the meantime I notice the pics I have include the 'stainless steel' under the lug and have the lug serial facing the right way. I'm not aware of any factories getting that right yet, but am I wrong?

Talking to a new but seemingly very trustworthy gen forum member about buying a 300 Master Co-Axial. I think PayPal's protection is good enough to take the plunge either way, but would love to know if you guys think this is gen!

I have tiny wrists too and there's one other solution not mentioned back then or in the revival threads: farmer's walks. Give it a few months and you'll need an extra link you can add to the back and balance everything out.

Angled. I have a gen Z series as well as a gen mid case T series (review comparing to TC overdue!) and both taper. The amount of taper increases slightly as you move from the case center out.