14060 or 16610?

Never taken the bracelet of my Gen BCE, so I can not comment. If it is like every other Breilting, it will be finished to remove all machine markers and polished.

Thanks - so do you think the rep is accurate on a strap?

I'm surprised nobody has the answer to this. Every other aspect of the case can be perfect, but if the bracelet is removed and a strap installed, the area between the lugs may look nothing like the gen.

Youch! Well if anyone finds a spare lying around can you pretty PLEASE send me a PM???

I understand Lello is retired, so... How/where can I get the date wheel with correct font?

I'm more of a Rolex guy. All their models look a certain way between the lugs - signs of milling, a particular shape, model and serial engravings, etc. Are there similar signs on a gen BCE?

Anyone know if the gen dial will fit a v2 bce rep? Are there dial feet? Do they need to be relocated to fit A7750?

Are there possibly 2 versions of gen the slate dial? Because I went to an AD a few days ago and looked at the gen, and the outer ring is DEFINITELY black. My eyes were not playing tricks on me, I looked at it from several angles and it is definitely black, matches the color of the subdials.

Is that a slate gray BCE? Is your outer ring black like the gen? Because mine is gray.

Is that the slate gray dial? I have the same one and have been wondering if the outer rehaut ring is black on the gen? If you go to the website it appears that the outer ring is black, but on my rep it is gray? Is yours gray?

I just noticed - is the outer rehaut ring black on this one?

I have a few genuine dials and have sold them in the past - PM me over at the dark side if you're interested (my PM here is always full). The best part about using a gen dial is that you can always remove it, sell it, and get your money back.

Yes, please provide an update - I'm sure the members here are DYING to get their hands on these!

Where, pray tell, did you get it from?...

I don't usually take sides in an argument, but this one is just plain crazy.

When I do an overhaul, I take everything apart down to the last screw. The only thing I usually leave intact is the balance, which I dip in tetrachloroethylene. But the balance cap jewels still come off, get dipped, and reassembled properly with the correct oil. Everything else HAS TO COME APART. I don't know how you would clean it properly otherwise. If you "dip" the movement without disassembling it, the cleaning fluid will be held inside the critical bearings by capillary action, and no amount of oiling is going to get it out of there. In fact, it will dilute any oil applied leading to early bearing failure. This would be like trying to wash your feet and apply lotion to them while they're still in socks and shoes. You can do it, but it ain't gonna be pretty...

As for running a business like this for generations, that's easy. The people coming back don't know the difference. They aren't the ones examining the barrel walls with a 10x loupe and finding gouges and scoring. They aren't the ones finding track wear on the movement because of the failed rotor bearings. So they could care less. These same people probably take their car to Jiffy Lube and pay for services that aren't being performed - would they know the difference if their oil wasn't changed?

Again it all boils down to quality vs. low price. The two don't mix.

While we're on this subject, has anyone here used the Rolex datewheels from Otto Frei? I understand they are a more accurate albeit expensive alternative to the cheapie date overlays.

The 2836 is used for its thicker dimensions. Yes, you could put a spacer on the dial side of the 2824, but then the canon pinion would be way too short, and the hands would be way too far from the crystal, probably flush with the dial too. Might not even clear the dial - remember, the tolerances are very small here. Hands are interchangeable, so are datewheels, however on the 2824 it is a flat datewheel, whereas the one on the 2836 is raised on a ridge. But they are in fact interchangeable.

Sounds like the keyless works may have jammed or dislodged. If so, it will likely require work from the dial side to remove the keyless works and reinstall them properly. This sometimes happens when that stem release button is pressed too hard.

This work will require the movement to be removed along with the hands and dial to access the keyless works.

Any updates on this?

You can use rubber cement to attach the DW as it will create a thickness that will raise it up just enough. Use a toothpick and apply a thick bead to both parts, and let them dry. Then press them together and press FIRMLY and the parts will stick, no problem. The best part is that if you goof up you can just remove the parts, rub the cement off with your finger, and reapply. You can do this as many times as it takes to get it right.

What kinds of watches are they? The Daytona with seconds at 6 has the most problematic 7750 out there, but the others are known to be shipped dry and/or dirty, so often a full service is needed if you want them to last. Once fully serviced, the 7750 will run a long time without any problems.

I'm just a casual observer, have nothing against Finepics, and have never done business with him. However, it would seem to me that somebody who has the time and energy to type out an auction description should equally have the time and energy to type out a few reply PMs to provide some assurance to those who have sent him their watches.

I recently purchased an SMP ETA and it seems to keep perfect time for a day or two, then I will look down and it's 30 minutes to an hour and a half slow like it stopped when I wasn't looking. I do wear it running sometimes, I'm wondering if that could mess up the movement. But yesterday it slowed down at work just wearing it normally. Any ideas?

Watch the seconds hand as it rotates around the dial to make sure it doesn't rub on the minute hand. Take a loupe and look to make sure the seconds hand isn't pressed too far down so that its post is rubbing the minute wheel. Then put the watch in time-setting mode and slowly rotate the minute hand around to ensure it clears all the markers. If this all checks out OK, you may likely just have a dirty movement which needs service. Or possibly your mainspring needs to be checked out.

Glad to hear you had success! Now your next step is to take the movement apart. You'll be servicing movements in no time. That's how I got addicted...

Remember, if you're looking to part your PO, I would be interested in the bracelet - let me know if it's available.

That wouldn't have been a PO lite, would it?

2824 and 2836 have different heights, in addition the stem hole on the 2836 is further from the dial side of the movement, so the stem will not line up. If you plan on dropping in a 2824, you will have to do some modification. Also, date wheels are not interchangeable - the 2836 DW is raised a bit and has a raised ring, whereas the 2824 DW is flat.