fraggle42

Mostly black with some silver, dark silver, orange, white and one salmon dial

cougar, where are you getting the information from?

 

I'd like to follow it, see what they're up to.

Ah well, it's on the back of the watch, you don't see it often!

Most of the staff behind the RM counters are good, but some don't seem to know what services they offer, or refer to them by what they offer, so after getting a few of them you'd think RM offers about a thousand different services!

Thanks guys, brilliant quick responses as always!

 

I've declared it as a Gift, a Bracelet with £100 value and posted AirSure for £15.20.

 

They didn't ask me to fill out an aviation security label? First time I've heard of those.

Thanks guys.

Theres boxes to tick as well as the description, Gift or Other?

Will put the description as a bracelet.

Hi all,

What is the most reliable and hassle free service to post from the uK to the States?

Royal Mail provide two services

International Signed For - provides tracking but only within the UK, and signed for at delivery.

Airsure Small Packets - seems to provide tracking all the way and delivery confirmation, but that isn't a signature?

Would like tracking all the way and signature at the other end, and with a courier that is customs "friendly".

Thanks,

Richard

I read that thread, someone said it was a credit card chargeback (done through pay pal), and not a PayPal claim?

 

I've no idea how long credit cards give you to make a chargeback?

On my winder all the programs are bi directional, so I have to have it set to max turns per day to keep everything wound.

I leave it on 24/7 in the bedroom and its nice and quiet.

It can have different programs and one of these days I'll find out how to change the program so it can do clockwise only or anticlockwise only.

That's worrying that the shippers demand to see the sales invoice and will only compensate you for that amount.

 

What if you decided to "sell" the old family TV/bike/watch to your son, it was worth a few $k, and you created an invoice for $10? It wouldn't matter how much you insured it for when you posted it.

 

The should do their own independant research on the true market value and use that, with the insurance value you quoted as a maximum limit, so you could limit the max insurance to reduce the postage cost if you wanted too. What it changed hands for shouldn't even come into it!

Just had a quick look and can't see any decent reviews of it yet.

 

A few people have posted quick posts about the 42mm titanium blue over on RWI.

 

I've realised that I actually have the 45mm titanium case that's currently with Rolexman getitng a gen dial, gen hands, gen crystal, a TC movement and a cleanup - the case is gorgeous, I love the crowns and the bezel and the display caseback.

I would have thought that apart from a different dial colour, any recent reviews of the PO ceramic 45mm would tell you most what you need?

 

Of course they wouldn't tell you how accurate the blue colour dial is to gen, and blue seems to be a particularily difficult colour to rep accurately.

If the "bullet" is glued onto another decorative piece which is in turn glued to the rotor, as you cannot see the "middle" decorated piece through the case back, why not just ditch it and have the bullet decoration glued to the rotor?

 

Should give you enough room for it to work and still look fine through the little case back window.

Well I've got my grail watch, a Breitling AeroSpace, and am currently pondering whether to get a Tudor Black Bay.

 

Out of the super reps I have, basically they're that good I don't feel the need to get the gen, I feel as good wearing them as I do the AeroSpace.

For the record my last post in this thread was in defence of an RWG member that has outstanding business with MD, and against another member who was telling all members who have work with MD to "shut up and stop moaning" (my paraphrasing) I've stuck up for MD from the start and still do.

 

All I can assume is that JoeyB misread my post and thought I was having a go at the member I was replying to (Tony).

 

If that's not the case the only alternative is that JoeyB supports the opinion that those members who are trying to get watches back are "just moaning and should shut up and suck it up," which I find hard to believe.

 

If anyone wishes to respond to this post *please* start a new thread, PM me telling me where it is and I'll happily discuss it in there, lets keep this one on track.

Sorry guys about my dumb posts they are dumb. I just would like my watch fixed and done with. Its annoying trying to keep asking someone to finish their job. Its more annoying when the person fixing your watch doesnt contact you and or tries to make it like it your fault that its taking so long to fix but whatever ill just keep eating [censored] till this is over.

Don't worry about it Tony, everyone needs to blow off steam from time to time.

 

Arguing with an idiot is pointless, it just brings you down to their level as that's all they can understand. Ignore them as they just want the attention.

 

 

Mike, just talk to people, please. Take an hour, bang out a few emails / PMs, take another hour and pack & post everything that people want sending back, and that's it done with. I know people get angry, upset, hold grudges, etc, that just makes them grumpy and moody and it affects everyone close to them. Far better I think to just swallow the pride, sort things out, and then forget all about it and move on with no lingering anger or resentment.

 

I've had to do it a few times, maybe lose some money myself, but what the hell, I've forgotten all about the issues a week later and can carry on with my life, happy.

Those aren't my pics, they are from the net. I can send you the link to the owner so you can ask him, I'm not sure his set up

 

Yes please, nothing to lose by asking them

 

 

Fraggle ...I aint sure if any help mate but here are a few links.... one showing the macro below of a Casio Subdial...

 

watch-crop-IMG_2746.jpg

 

 

http://www.kenrockwell.com/canon/lenses/100mm-macro.htm

 

http://www.wrist-watch.info/pgtips/phototips.htm

 

http://www.wristwatchphoto.com/2009/05/camera-settings-and-depth-of-field-for.html

 

 

Plus of course there are loads of tips and HowTos in our photgraphy section....

 

 

Neville.jpg

Cheers, I've read a lot of the stuff in there, but always happy to learn more

 

 

A picture through the microscope:-

Great pics, I love a good movement macro shot myself. Here's a few

Damn nice shots, what lights and studio setup do you use?

I've been trying to get good shots through a trinocular stereo microscope. The view through the eyepiece is fantastic but the view through the camera is horrible. Lack of contrast, poor focus, foggy, just naff. I'll persist until I crack it (or crack it )

I'd like some advice. I have hesitated to leave negative feedback for Mike under his RWG profile. This is his way of making money and that's not something to mess with without good reasons. But it is also important that this site serve one of its main purposes--to provide accurate information. So I wonder if it is unfair to others if I don't leave some negative feedback. Anyone considering doing business with Mike deserves to know this stuff first (as well as all the positive things people have said in the past). If anything, I think I would just leave this thread's web address as the comment for the feedback so they can decide for themselves. Does anyone think this would be unfair to Mike?

This thread has lots of conjecture, unproven accusations, potentially misleading information and noise, it's going to be useless as feedback.

What's wrong with just leaving a purely factual, unbiased, date ordered list of what happened?

If its just the facts, ALL the facts (otherwise its misleading by leaving out what may be crucial info to some), and no personal opinion no one can say anything and its helpful.

Of course doing that would mean including things like the phone call, what was said in it, also your request for the return of the watches and the fact you initially didn't want the $350 back, and then wanted some of it back, and then wanted all of it back (for reasons you obviously felt warranted that - I'm not taking sides or commenting on that at all IYSWIM)

Just think what would be the most useful to someone else.

These current wiring standards are terrible!

IMG_20131006_105300.jpg

Will you stop it!

 

I was looking for the cheapest new prices for this the other day. Approx £1700 from Turin, Italy. Cheap flight down there and back is £75...

 

<resists!>

 

I don't think this was caused by excessive load.

 

Most fires like this are caused by poor (loose or broken) connections.

 

Once you have a bad connection, it adds resistance to the circuit. A resistor consumes power and turns it into heat. That heat causes expansion, and contraction when things are turned off and cool down, and the metal moves when it's doing that, making the bad connection worse, so more resistance, more heat.

 

At some point the heat gets hot enough to start charring the wire insulation and the plastic in the back of the socket, that charring adds carbon (the black charring), carbon acts as a resistor, more resistance so more heat.

 

The resistance <=> heat cycle just carries on until the charring turns into a fire or you smell it or notice the flickering light / TV, or the RCD trips out.

 

It can happen with just one 100W bulb connected.

 

The only time the RCD will trip is when the carbon from the cooked plastic makes enough of a connection between the live and earth, and that's only if an RCD is fitted - most sockets only have a resettable fuse which just won't trip in this case. (residual current device - detects any imbalance in current going out along the live wire and current coming back along the neutral, they should match - if they don't, the electricity is "leaking" somewhere, either to earth or to you)

 

 

 

 

(pedants - yes I know AC current goes both ways, but the descriptions good enough for the topic! )

This is one of the reasons that I always use either metal or those white, hard, ceramic type of back boxes and sockets / switches.

 

There's nothing that can catch fire and burn on it's own, it needs a constant heat source for a long time and even then it'll fizzle and melt a bit and smell like hell but won't burn.

 

It does worry me though, when I pull a socket off the wall or a light switch and sometimes see three cables coming in, all with 3, sometimes 4, wires in them, all bent and twisted to get to the right location where they've got to get into the screw down connector on the back of the socket or switch.

 

It's impossible to do quickly without having some of the wires under tension and trying to pull themselves out, and stuffing three wires into a receptacle that's really designed for one or two.

 

It's scary how many times you pull a socket / switch from a wall and one or more of the wires just comes out of it's connector - that's a bad connection that can start a fire right there.