Davey

Sometimes its fair; for example if someone buys from the same country they are basically getting the watch without the risk and most likely next day!

At present I'm wearing my Silix Blue Airking

But hopefully tomorrow I'll get my Daytona 6264 PN back and will proceeed to wear it for a few weeks

Clearly a replica.. Bad engraving on the clasp, still got the blue sticky back plastic, and the "chrono" is just Day/Date...

Cheap $50 tat!

A few of my faves

TT GMT Master

DRSD

Tag Carrera Chrono

Yachtmaster Rolesium

Explorer II

Airking

Explorer I (Vintage)

Breitling Emergency

Pepsi GMT Master

Please note slight change of location

The Nickel, swiss built 2892-A2 movement is about 250 bucks, so you could by one from an AD to be sure

And dont forget boys and girls the later models have different guards so dont go mental on your 2000+ watches

99% of ETAS are chinese built but NOT copies.. ETA have authorised factories in China.

Whats on your wrist on this fine Monday?

Today I'm sporting a vintage Explorer I

Just because two watches have the same movement it doesnt mean the dials will be interchangeable.. Some of the more accurate replicas have the date window in the correct position which is about 3mm more central than an ETA, so they use a date overlay that budges it along to the center.. obviously if you have one dial with the accurate date window position and one with an ETA position the date wheels cant be swapped

Yes it's true

Here is my emergency mission TT

Regards

Richard

Can I ask, where did you get that from??

The rest of the replica is pretty inaccurate though I've got one here, its kind of a cross between a regular Emergency and an Emergency Mission:

Sorry to break this too you, but the real thing has them round that way too..

Here comes the problem. As you can see on the Omega the lume some how has fallen off during shipping. I'm thinking it would be rather easy to fix it (I've done kind of the same on my sub)

If you havent got any Rodico then all I can say is get some now perfect for re-locating the piece of loom, and a thin slow setting glue..

Why bother? Just buy from trusted dealers/members?

If you want simplicity, what about an AirKing?

Btw you can always go for the best Omega

Holy mother of Jesus.. I cant quite decide if that is worse than the Infamous SLR Tag!

Basics:

Hand stack: (from the bottom) Hour, GMT, Minute, Seconds.

Bezel: Should rotate both directions and feel smooth.

Crown: Should be smaller than the submariner and there should be no trip-lock.

Crown Guards: Square'er than the submariner and almost flush with the end of the crown.

Clasp: Same as the oyster clasp on the submariner but about 10mm shorter.

The "He" valve is a bit low, the case back is a bit too deep, and the bracelet uses screws instead of pins. Some have clasp issues as well but all in all I think the current SMP reps are excellent for the money. I actually let mine go to a good friend a couple of weeks ago because it never got worn. I prefer the SMP Chrono which I wear quite often.

Depends which version you look at.. The one I had from King had pins and the HE Valve was above 10'.. There are so many variations of this model.

bttt

Ask Jay from some photos of what you'll get, I'm sure he'll be more than happy to assist.

From what I've seen recently the CN subs have come a long way! The whole case is different, the bezels are interference fit and feel almost as good as the TW/MBW versions.

Explorer II is one of my Fave's, I've got a white faced one and it gets the most wrist time

High end and chronomovents should be serviced regularly IMHO! Some of the cheaper end stuff (Miyota, ETA28xx) is just cheaper to replace with new

Its like Keyboard Warriors Anonymous in here!