Kime

I can't help but I would like to know as well. I have one of these cartels in my box wait for the treatment that you are doing and I was going for Raffles or Yuki hands... maybe clarks as well?

Where in the world does one acquire a gen dial coronet? Another old gen vintage dial with less value?

I think for a first go it is pretty good. Give him a break for trying !   However, what these guys say is probably right, when I did my first ageing project I did exactly what you did, over did it a bit maybe, it is easily done, that doesn't mean that the results are bad but the more you go down the rabbit hole of vintage watches the more you find that the aging process is more often than not very very subtle and rarely to destruction (although it does exist).

Mostly these watches were updated to new clean parts as they got old and "tired", patina was very often an unwanted side effect. Those watches that were not used very often and left in drawers and safes in the dark have aged far slower and were probably not updated with service parts, it is these watches that define "vintage" for most of us. But it is a matter of choice. Hours of studying reference pics is the ONLY way forward to get ageing to an "acceptable" medium and it is far far harder to achieve subtle effects than "over done" ones. But I applaud you for giving it a go and I for one look forward to seeing your next efforts ! :clap2:

Here is a photo of what the subdial spacing would be like on a 7750 powered 6263. Notice that the subdials are slightly closer to the index markers than on the gen. For me, that is a small price to pay for what is, overall a very good and reasonably priced rep. And yes, all the subdials work as they should.

 

RIMG0808.JPG

That's a nice looking watch mate, where is the dial sourced from for a 7750 movement?

Lol I have this book in pdf

You didn't have to pay for it, you could also Download the pdf it is available in Repgeek

Do you have a link at all?

Welcome along... there seems to be an echo from Germany !

..and I am sure you will enjoy it... but here in lies the problem... modding a cartel rep is limited unless you mod the position of the pin at 6 otherwise you will just not find a better dial that fits. I suspect that doing so is not overly hard but it is not something everyone would be willing to undertake. You could replace with another rep dial (if you can find one) some are better than others but they are hard to find on their own. But if you move the pin at 6 there are plenty of modding options for new dials although after market daytona dials of any accuracy are fairly expensive.

Is there nothing to be said for the cartel Daytonas then?

I think in general they are OK, but they fall over when put "under the microscope" If you are not going to do that then they are fine. What do we mean by "under the microscope"? well, the first thing is the position of the subdial at 6. It is of course fixed (faux) and does not move but worse still it is in the wrong position (too low) for no good reason at all. Next are the dials, ROLEX font is off, serifs on markers and "daytona" are missing, lume dots are very slightly incorrect, too far away from the minute track, the coronet is slightly the wrong shape. Hands are slightly too wide, we could go on BUT we are talking minor things here, things that nobody other than fanatics will be concerned about. For better accuracy, i.e. better side by side accuracy with a gen, you will need after market parts (of which there are not many options, so very often you have to go gen) which add up to a lot of money and "pain" real quickly.

So the answer is IT DEPENDS, on just how accurate you need your rep to be. My opinion is get a Cartel if you need to feed your desire for a vintage Daytona, wear it, no worries.  Then save up and start hoarding parts ! :-)

LOL

DWs ebay account is now dormant I think. I few weeks ago his last remaining listings were removed.

It would also appear from his 5 NEGATIVE FEEDBACKS IN THE LAST MONTH that whatever he was selling on ebay (before it was all taken down) was not delivered. So even if anything appears it might not be worth the pain of getting involved as for sometime DW has been widely considered a BAD EGG and reading the negative feedback should confirm that for you.

http://www.ebay.com/usr/valjouxshop

^^^ Woooooowwwww!!!!!

Sent via my mobile

Yes +1 on that, that is amazing ! Love the display back as well !

Thanks for info, being in the UK, it is virtually impossible to avoid the 20% import charges when shipping from the US, everything is checked these days, so even avoiding that is a discount !

I have business trip in 2 weeks to Houston, does anyone have any recommendations for vintage rlx dealers that might be worth visiting?

Ah ok, got it, I didn't know they did that on gens.

I just use a triangular diamond file if the tube wrench I have doesn't fit. Never a problem with extraction

What about for fitting, does this not damage the internal spline teeth when tightening?

Thanks for the info and link freddy... do you know where to get one of those tapered internal spline tools for removing tubes? I have 2 sizes neither fit the tubes I have, tapered seems like a great idea but I can't find one anywhere !

Whoa, crisp !

Thanks guys, the differences listed here on 702/203 is why I was getting confused. I am going to go with 703, which brings another question, is the tap the same?

Bars: thanks lhooq, Ofrei has these, they seem to follow what you said... "Double shoulder type body length is 18.6 mm and diameter is 1.8 mm with pivot diameter 0.88 that are 2.0 mm long"

After measuring, the cartel appears to come with these same size bars (1.8/0.9) and a rough measurement of the lug holes comes back with 1.1mm. So maybe just a redrill to get the edges of the holes a bit sharper.

Some more pics for thos who haven't seen them... and here is the FULL build log over at HF http://www.homageforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=28343

Wow, I'm flattered... thanks guys !

Wow (again), you are positing some nice builds recently :-)

There's no such thing as a cheap vintage build

Honestly, I would ditch that dial. It's not that great. You can get much better dials from yuki or whoopy for 1680.

Or sell the dial and get a pure time 1680 if thry have it in stock.

It would just take some case work and a relume and you'd be set.

+1 that sounds like some good advice for a budget build !

Ah... nobody knows... Ok I will bump for just one question... can probably work the rest out..

What is the Spring bar diameter (body and pin) for Daytona gen 19mm bars? (2mm sub type bars do not seem correct)

I read many threads last night, one epic 10k build (wow) but still didn't really get the answers for these questions... (I am lightly modding a cartel 6265)

1. What is the correct crown for a 6265 (702 or 703)

2. Does the cartel case have a compatible tube for a gen crown or does it need to be replaced

3. Are these taps correct for a gen crown and pushers?

7020 tube M3 x 0.35

B24 P302 Pusher M2.5 x 0.25

4. What is the Spring bar diameter (body and pin) for a Daytona gen 19mm bars? (I assume 2mm sub type bars are not correct?)

5. What is the correct drill bit diam for Daytona spring bars lug holes 1.2mm?

6. Is a Clarks T21 plexi far superior to the cartel?

Thanks for any help guys!

Irrespective of this particular dial, can someone chip in on a decent case (affordable and available)  for a 1680 are we still with Yuki or is there a better option?