JOEJOEJOE

Oh, I forgot to ask if anyone has tried taking out the CG Lever pin on the CG that looks like the one on 176 above and inserting it backwards? The pin is actually nice and flush to the case, from the back view, but not the other way around. I wonder if it can be fitted. @ sssurfer - I think I may have asked you this a while back @ RWI - you told me you haven't had the chance to try it then. Have you tried this mod since? J

Hi PAMman~ I actually did give it a try, but no luck (we think alike ). What I learned from this was that although 061's Crown is thinner, bridge + Crown width is thicker than 176's. @ all - Thank you all for the compliments~ My next project will be Pam 002D, using standard base (painted) dial, Angus' 111E case (with FLAT CG lever pin), and DSN's 010D caseback, which also corresponds to 002D. J

Hi ZainoDetail, 176 was originally sourced from Ruby - I actually had her put it together after seeing her Pam 36 with thicker crown and CG with less gap. She told me that it was a lot of hassle because she actually had to order different parts from different factory and had a watchsmith put it together - but she did it for me. I am just not sure if she would do it again. I also found that Joshua had this exact 176 listed on his site but the price was over 400 dollars... Also be careful - he has more than one variation of 176s listed on his sites. J

Thanks The reason I call it Ruby CG & Crown is because Ruby first started offering them on her 036. Ruby first offered these Thick crown with very short bridge, which makes the overall length of the crown from the case to the CG shorter than standard crown (although the actual crown itself is thicker than the standard) and to allow this crown to fit, the factory had to come up with the CG with less square gap. 176 and 111's CG's proportionate size is quite accurate, but the crown is way too thick (it also lacks teeth and bridge that creates space between the case and the crown). Thanks for the tip on grinding down the CG - I probably won't be doing it myself though... as I have absolute-zero hand-eye coordination J

I rarely post here, but I justed wanted to share my collection to date - Other than 111E that I turned it into 1B (caseback), all have been modded by Master Vaccum Pics - Looking at the genuine articles, I have realized that the crowns that come with standard reps are not that flawed (other than the angle it's beveled at), but it's the CG (the "square" gap is too wide). I chose not to install Palp crowns to fix the proportion, but plan on filing down the leg of the CGs to decrease this gap, which in turn makes the crowns look thicker. What I call the "Ruby" CG (as shown above in 111E/1B and 176G) actually look decent in terms of the proportion. But they come with extremely FAT crowns that have less teeth & bridge between the case and the crown (which makes it look like it's almost stuck to the case). On these watches, I plan to install a regular rep crown, using shorter stem. Comments welcome Enjoy the pics! J

Even Gen Pams (recent models with "L" dial) aren't supposed to glow that long. They just glow super bright for very short time.

yepyep, you pretty much covered everything Just to add a few things, 61C & D have closed caseback and 118, 177 have display. I also hear that 61C has unusually GREEN lume compared to other Pams.

It's a G-series - Which should have "L SWISS L" - so this is correct

I would actually ~ build some other model as 111 Dial isn't near perfect (yet). I would use Palp crown, JF's CG and case, standard sausage dial (probably Pam 001B), OP 6518 caseback (B-series), and "Swiss" Unitas (older B series movement w/o swan neck), and put it together. Also superlume the dial with C1 & C3 mix, fix the cannon pin, secure the CG lever, and put a Greg Steven's CH~ I think this is as good as it gets, IMO - and also it's almost the same watch as 111. Joe

Of the three listed above, I would go with 036. 177 and 111 are basicallly the same, except for the case material.

Nice watches ^^ Just wondering though (regarding your last comment) - Why put a 112H dial into a PVD case? Why not a 112E (or F, or G) dial? (I should also add closed caseback) The Latter option would make it a Pam 009BL, vs. 112H dial would make it a fantasy watch (I don't doubt that it'll look amazing though )

Vaccum actually installed a new stem on mine to create a bit more gap between the case and the Crown. I have heard the method you listed above - perhaps an easier and cheaper fix than what Vaccum did for me I actually have a couple more PAM projects going, and on another TI pam, I have this issue (again). I may try this ^^ Joe

I actually PM'ed ya over at RWI regarding CG mod Ruby actually had to take the CG out of her 036 and install it on this baby. I don't she'll be doing this anymore, but it really was nice of her. Thanks for all the nice comments above ^^ I just can't take this off my wrist Joe

I just received my 176G back from Vaccum! 1. I bought a 176G with asian movement from Ruby - she also swapped out the CG and Crown to a thicker one It was a steal at $139 EMS shipped! 2. I sent out the watch to Vaccum and he relumed, cannon-pin fixed, tightened the CG lever, & movement swap to a E series dagger movement (hybrid of Swiss & Asian from my 183). His work is truly amazing!! Now, the pics Enjoy Pics from Vaccum himself: Anoather Edit! Here is a pic of gen - for comparison: Postives: 1. Whiter color numbers & markers - like Gen 2. Thicker TI crown (it has less # of teeths, but oh well) 3. Superlumed & No cannon pin issues! 4. Correct-looking movement Negatives: 1. Wrong Caseback There is no G-series caseback available in reps 2. Crappy looking CG - It's actually flipped upside-down, I hope to swap it out someday. 3. "L Swiss L" is a bit too close to the "6" - for some reason, 176G has more spacing between L SWISS L and the 6 than 112G or 9B - so I guess gen doesn't use the same dial for it.

The buyer probably wanted to get other mods done by FF anyway, and while at it, he got a nice 112 dial and wanted to do the swap I understand the buyer, since I am interested in doing something similar too - from a 111H to a 1B (so I would need a polished CG, closed caseback, and sausage 111 dial), and get the lume and cannon pin fix while I send the watch and the parts out to the modder. @ flavor flav It looks great!