Jump to content
When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

TswissT

Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    260

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by TswissT

  2. Dial Painting/Lettering/Resin Filling/Luming... Part 1

    in The Panerai Area

    Posted

    Not too sure if this would be the right subforum, so if Admin feels the need to move this; I understand.

    Thought I would try and combine several different methods I have been testing into one nice and concise tutorial.

    Not too difficult a job. Remove the dial from the backplate when starting from scratch here.

    1. Stripping the Paint from the existing dial and/or backplate:

    I like to start with a bare bones dial... Stay away from sanding your dials. Go to your nearest Home Depot or whatever hardware store and get paint stripper. Be sure to buy a few of those plastic disposable trays too...

    IMG_8735.jpg

    Simply drop the dial in the tray and pour a bit of stripper on top and let it soak for about 2 or 3 minutes. While wearing gloves, remove the dial and gently brush the dial with a wire brush. I am sure you can use other, more gentle, brushes; but this is what I had around the house. The paint will come off very easy.

    IMG_8736.jpg

    Now wipe the residue off the dial and wash it in mild soap and water or vinegar. (I am told that vinegar removes oils and residue from brass and Stainless)

    IMG_8737.jpg

    Your dial should now look like a small clean brass plate. (Although some of mine did not look brass at all) :)

    IMG_8739.jpg

    This also works if you want to strip down the back plate. Removing any and all lume, paint, or anything else for that matter... The paint stripper is strong stuff.

    ****Forgot to metion; you probably want to do this part outside since the fumes from that stripper is enough to drop a horse***

    Turn on some tunes, you will be at this for a while: :)

    IMG_8732.jpg

    And you can't forget the early morning Krusty the Clown Slippers.

    IMG_8738.jpg

    2. Painting the dial and/or backplate:

    I have tried over 10 different painting methods, and I have found that my favorite and easiest to use the the ole airbrush.

    Picked one up at a local hobby shop with the compressor (very quiet by the way) for under $150.00...

    IMG_8747.jpg

    I have found some spray paint to actually be pretty darn good too. Just remember to find "FLAT" paint... (At least in my limited experience, Flat works best for the PAM and hommage dials I am working with)

    Next tool you need is a heat gun a.k.a Wife's Hairdryer:

    IMG_8740.jpg

    She will KILL me if she ever sees his thread... :)

    My little outdoor patio workstation looks like this:

    IMG_8731.jpg

    I started with a white base coat... Actually a little off-white:

    IMG_8741.jpg

    Added a single LIGHT coat:

    IMG_8742.jpg

    By the way; I use an old hunk of styrofoam from my kid's Christmas toys and toothpicks to hold the dials in place.

    Next, I added a darker color to try and get that aged sunburt/faded color:

    IMG_8743.jpg

    IMG_8744.jpg

    After you achieve the desired color, you can spray the dial with a LIGHT coat of CLEAR MATTE Finish... This was actually a difficult find for me; ended up using a Krylon Clear Matte I found at Home Depot.

    ***Please remember that after every coat, hit that sucker with the hairdryer for about 4 to 5 minutes***

    If you have engraved letter you want to fill in; please take heed that every coat of paint makes the engravins a little more shallow...

    Another recommendation I was given was to put the dial in the oven on 350 degrees for about 20 minutes to fully cure the paint to the dial.

    Place that sucker on a sheet of tin foil and cook away:

    IMG_8746.jpg

    IMG_8748.jpg

    When you remove the dial from the oven; you may realize you left it in too long, or that you didn't apply enough paint... :)

    Notice how my dials changed in appearance.

    Before cooking:

    IMG_8744.jpg

    After cooking:

    IMG_8749.jpg

    It's alright you can always touch it up a bit more afterwards. I overcooked mine a bit and the white paint turned a bit yellow. No worries, because the airbrush was still around to add some more color. :) Cooked for about 10 minutes and the result came out as expected.

    IMG_8745.jpg

    Please stay tuned for Part 2 (Filling the lettering/Resin filling/Luming)

  4. My latest "Vintage" build

    in The Panerai Area

    Posted

    At least for now; here is my completed vintage project.

    Everything completed by me and no one else... :) Feels good that way.

    DSN 6152-1 case heavily worked on by myself

    Ofrei 6497 (all I have at the moment) :)

    DSN Hands Aged and lumed by me

    Ross Dial painted and repainted about 25 times. Lumed and resin filled by me.

    DSN CG heavily reworked by me, also added a protruding CG Pin.

    All in All; I am happy with the end result.

    Nightwatch thick caseback is inbound, as well as a moillie 3601 with okabum hands... :)

    What do you guys think?

    P1010667.jpg

    P1010669.jpg

    P1010670.jpg

    P1010672.jpg

    P1010678.jpg

    P1010679.jpg

    P1010680.jpg

    P1010681.jpg

    And dial itself before mounting:

    P1010664.jpg

    Pics are looking a little more yellow than the actual color. I will try and adjust that later. :)

  5. 111 wearing my new Ted Su hornback

    in The Panerai Area

    Posted

    Wasn't meant literally. Just my opinion that out of all the others that I have tried (so far), his is by far my favorite.

    I didn't mean to put down any of our resident strap makers; as I have only tried about 3 or four of them.

    And yes; you are correct that others are less costly. Ted Su straps are much more expensive than the other's that I have tried out. :)

  8. Franken DJ 16233 cal 3135 to 2824 or 2892-A2

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    Your right. I am expecting a total cost of approximately 600 to 650.00, and the end result will be great. Out of the 16 reps in the arsenal right now (10 of which are pams) I have always wanted to build a super rep DJ...

    Not sure why, they look tiny on my wrist. I am used to 44 and 47mm watches...

    I have just always loved the look of a TT DJ on a leather or croc strap... Seems a little old fashion, but (for what its worth) this was my inspiration.

    A9_2159.jpg

    I know this is an older model than mine, but I must make due with what is/was available. :)

  9. Franken DJ 16233 cal 3135 to 2824 or 2892-A2

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    Franken Dj Project. cal 3135 to 2824 or 2892

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    I have been reading almost every thread on here and RG regarding an upcoming Franken project.

    Already acquired a 16233 TT gen case, crystal, and dial.

    About to get a Gen 3135 date wheel and correct 6mm crown for the 16200 case size. (24-603-8 Crown and 24-5320 tube)

    It seems that I will need a movement spacer/enlargement ring as the cal 3135 is 28.5 mm in diameter and the ETA 2824 & 2892 are 25.6mm.

    I have sent a PM to Stilty without a reply yet. Only sent it about 15 minutes ago... :)

    I read somewhere that you can use the ETA 2834-2 enlargement ring and file it down a bit. These are available from Jules Borel. It seems that this will fit the ETA movement precisely, but will enlarge the movement to about 29mm. Only a little filing necessary.

    Now to the questions:

    1. 2824 or 2892-A2 ?

    2. Any info about whether or not the Gen date wheel is a simple overlay with the proper enlargement ring?

    3. I read that the cannon pinion and 4th wheel should be replaced.

    Here are the CP options: 2.2, 2.45, 2.7, 2.95, 3.2

    Here are the 4th wheel options: 4.8, 5.05, 5.3, 5.5, 5.8, 6.05

    Which ones?

    4. Hands. The hand size on the eta mvmnts are 90/105/25

    What sizes are the gen hands?

    I know this is a lot of information and some pretty in depth questions, so if some experts could please chime in I would appreciate it.

    Any Franken experts willing to take on a project can also PM me.

    I am starting to think that this is going a little over my head.

  18. Transformation from 201a to 201A!

    in The Panerai Area

    Posted

    1. I was working with him on SEVERAL non-rep things and asked for a favor. I guess I used up my favor bank on him. (I have NO IDEA what happened to make him stop working on reps.

    2. The LH pin comes floppy. According to a few threads, you should not remove the CG pin. I was even told my master modder that the sucker was in there so tight, he would damage the pin if he applied any more pressure. With that said, the lever is still a tad floppy. It does; however, snap right into place and won't come lose. This is fine with me.

    My VCG, has ZERO floppiness, but required a little work to get the right finish and fit.

  23. The Best PAM 127

    in The Panerai Area

    Posted

    Be weary though. Finding gen parts for a 127 is pretty difficult and extremely costly.

    I have had Ultimate 127's from 3 different dealers, ans DSN is definitely one of the best. Go with his Swiss and superlume.

    You may have to drop a few bucks on a high CP mod, flush the CG pin, tighten the lever; and all 127's belong on a Gunny Strap. (Caitlin or 74)

    Order early, because they take a few weeks to make.

  24. Transformation from 201a to 201A!

    in The Panerai Area

    Posted

    AHHHHHHHHHH!!!

    What do you mean inaccurate? Not complaining by any stretch of the imagination, just VERY curious. It is always these little things that will nag me.

    I love the chase!!! I love trying to get a watch more accurate to gen, than getting a gen itself. (That and the price tag) :)

×
×
  • Create New...
Please Sign In or Sign Up