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mrsoundman

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mrsoundman last won the day on May 7 2018

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About mrsoundman

  • Rank
    Starting to like this place...

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  • Country
    United States

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West Coast
  • Interests
    Watches, Motorcycles, Wood Working, Landscape Photography, & more Watches

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  1. Just wanted to reiterate that it's great to see this level of comparison. Thanks brother!
  2. If you're CONUS, I would recommend Clark (nostalgia-2000) on ebay.
  3. Call me crazy, but wouldn't the userid of "HandJobDork" throw up a few red flags from the start of a transaction?... lol
  4. @LifeTrekker nicely done! Love that BSI dial. I'm getting bored with Dagaz's offerings. Haven't tried any of Yobokies yet. I'll definitely be on the lookout for more, especially if we're talking sub $50 - that's just comical. By the way, if anyone is looking for a solid end-link bracelet for these, the P210 Parnis bracelets on ebay are a great option.
  5. Thanks my friend. So, it seems like I would have been best served with one of these multi-5.3-6.0-7.0 case tube wrenches.... Thanks again!
  6. I purchased a 6.0 & 7.0 Clark Case Tube Wrench off the Bay and it's too big for my Athaya 702 Tube... Any ideas which wrench will work with this tube? I did a little research and the Clark tool is for NEW style 6.0 & 7.0 tubes. The weird thing is, I can only find an OLD style 6.0 wrench though.... Oh wait, this old thread says "The 6mm case tube wrench works on both 6mm and 7mm case tubes, why they don't advertise them as such, really baffles me." Hmmmm..... so I wonder if an OLD style 6.0 Wrench will work on the 702 Athaya?
  7. I had a similar problem when I was cutting my first ETA 2824 Stem to length for a new build. I incorrectly figured that cutting the stem a little longer was not going to be an issue... When I screwed in the crown, the yoke slipped over the sliding pinion and the winder was stuck in the calendar position. I found the following video extremely useful. I believe it visually explains Matt's description correctly:
  8. Any reason you choose the REHAUT version vs the NO REHAUT version? Other than the insert alignment being off-center (which is an easy fix), looks fine. SEL recession looks good too, which is usually hit or miss on these.
  9. Very interesting... A quick google search suggests that this houses a Ronda 505.24h movement with these specs. Unfortunately, the movement size and stem height don't bode well for replacing with a mechanical GMT, for a novice like myself: Size (Ligne): 10½''' Stem Height: 1.50mm
  10. I spent about 3 hours removing the burs on the JF bracelet and clasp when I received mine. After that, it felt much better. Lug holes and SEL bracelet would look great. That would put you in the more exclusive 2001 - 2003 range?
  11. Looks awesome! I still need to pickup a No Rehaut version to swap my serviced Yuki 3135 into. The SEL fitment on my JF (older rehaut version) is less than stellar, yours looks great! Why the Yuki clasp? What didn't you like about the JF clasp?
  12. Thanks brother. In my line of work, it's not always in my best interest to show up wearing a Rolex / IWC / Panerai on my wrist... I love these because if/when asked, I can pull the "it started life as an $80 Invicta" and anyone with basic mechanical experience and a little patience can design and build their own semi-custom version. Also, getting comfortable with these makes me far less scared to work on the $900+ Yuki 9411 case/dial that I have on my bench currently.
  13. I love these watches, great for first time modder's (like myself) and there're tons of aftermarket parts available for them. You can pick up an Invicta 8926 "Submariner look-alike" on Amazon for ~$80 shipped to your door within 2 days and they come with the Seiko NH35a movement (which hacks and hand winds). Good luck finding a similar featured micro-brand watch for anywhere near that price! Ground off the engraved "INVICTA" logo from the side of the watch and re-polished the case. Simply replaced the dial / hands / bezel and bracelet clasp with a custom laser engraved milled clasp. Have less than $200 invested in this one. I was a little more adventurous with this one... Ground off the "INVICTA" logo and removed the Crown Guards. The rest is standard fair, also added a Parnis P210 bracelet with solid endlinks.
  14. Thanks @Sogeha! This was my very first mechanical watch purchase back in the day. I saw that unmistakable rose gold movement and was hooked! I have no idea who polished the inside of the case back, I bought it in that condition. Who knows what they were thinking. I've seen some 60's era Connies without the gold observatory logo, but I think you're right - this is clearly not the original case back.
  15. I’ve had this ~1960’s Omega Constellation for years now. It’s been to numerous watch makers over the years for service and restoration (had the dial redone, case polished, etc about 10 years ago). No one has ever mentioned that parts of this watch weren’t authentic, but with all the knowledge I’ve learned from RWG, RWI and RepGeek over the past year, I’m starting to wonder what I have here… Curious of any of your thoughts, especially since I would like to sell this in the near future. To my eyes, the second hand looks to be too short and upon closer inspection looks to have been cut short. The crown looks genuine to me... Here's a couple photos of the Genuine 561 movement: The case back looks genuine to me. I've seen some bad fake versions on Google Images. This looks much better than those. This is where it gets interesting. I believe the idiot who polished the case removed the factory swirls and did this brushed finish. He almost removed the model number engravings (14900 SC-61). The black sharpie is from my watchmakers recent service of the movement. I don't believe the 14900 ever came with a 561 movement, so perhaps this an example of a replacement genuine case back? This is the only major part (aside from the incorrect second hand) that is giving me pause about listing this as 100% genuine.
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