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mrsoundman

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Posts posted by mrsoundman

  1. If you click the Auction Links within any of the Ebay search results - all of the Seller's accounts have been disabled and the original listings removed.  Ebay is notoriously bad at removing auctions (even for Replica merchandise), so there's definitely something going on.  I might send a photo to Sead and see what he says..

  2. I'm just curious what the community thinks of these...  I don't see any recent versions of Oris Aquis models on the major Replica Sites (PureTime, InTime, etc.).  I'm rather curious myself who is making these and where I can get one in the $400 range.  Screw paying $700!  lol

     

    Here is a historical search of all NEW Aquis models sold on Ebay < $750 within the last 90 days: Ebay Link  They are selling a bunch of them!

     

    Here's one of the YouTube Video series that originally exposed these on Ebay. 

     

     

     

     

  3. Welcome to the forum Denny!

     

    I'm no expert either, but this looks like a 1970's Reference 1550 Gold Capped (as @Timelord mentioned).

     

    Here is a good write-up on the 1550:

    https://www.craftandtailored.com/products/1970-rolex-oyster-perpetual-date-ref-1550-gold-cap

     

    Personally, I've never seen a gold capped bracelet on one.  That through me for a loop.  Perhaps some of the resident experts can chime in more on that for you.  Wear it in good health and welcome again!

  4. @LifeTrekker nicely done!  Love that BSI dial.  I'm getting bored with Dagaz's offerings.  Haven't tried any of Yobokies yet.  I'll definitely be on the lookout for more, especially if we're talking sub $50 - that's just comical. 

     

    By the way, if anyone is looking for a solid end-link bracelet for these, the P210 Parnis bracelets on ebay are a great option.  

    • Like 1
  5. I purchased a 6.0 & 7.0 Clark Case Tube Wrench off the Bay and it's too big for my Athaya 702 Tube...  Any ideas which wrench will work with this tube? 

     

    I did a little research and the Clark tool is for NEW style 6.0 & 7.0 tubes.  The weird thing is, I can only find an OLD style 6.0 wrench though....

     

    Oh wait, this old thread says "The 6mm case tube wrench works on both 6mm and 7mm case tubes, why they don't advertise them as such, really baffles me."

     

    Hmmmm..... so I wonder if an OLD style 6.0 Wrench will work on the 702 Athaya? 

  6. I had a similar problem when I was cutting my first ETA 2824 Stem to length for a new build.  I incorrectly figured that cutting the stem a little longer was not going to be an issue...  When I screwed in the crown, the yoke slipped over the sliding pinion and the winder was stuck in the calendar position.  I found the following video extremely useful.  I believe it visually explains Matt's description correctly:

     

    • Like 1
  7. Thanks brother.

     

    In my line of work, it's not always in my best interest to show up wearing a Rolex / IWC / Panerai on my wrist...  I love these because if/when asked, I can pull the "it started life as an $80 Invicta" and anyone with basic mechanical experience and a little patience can design and build their own semi-custom version.  

     

    Also, getting comfortable with these makes me far less scared to work on the $900+ Yuki 9411 case/dial that I have on my bench currently. 

    • Like 2
  8. I love these watches, great for first time modder's  (like myself) and there're tons of aftermarket parts available for them.  You can pick up an Invicta 8926 "Submariner look-alike" on Amazon for ~$80 shipped to your door within 2 days and they come with the Seiko NH35a movement (which hacks and hand winds).  Good luck finding a similar featured micro-brand watch for anywhere near that price!

     

    Ground off the engraved "INVICTA" logo from the side of the watch and re-polished the case.  Simply replaced the dial / hands / bezel and bracelet clasp with a custom laser engraved milled clasp.  Have less than $200 invested in this one. B) 

    Invicta2_1.thumb.jpg.98b7bfa8469f3667c3ac133c6629b206.jpg

    Invicta2_2.thumb.jpg.80f61c24dc09432c7aefba07917b2426.jpgInvicta2_3.thumb.jpg.0cc0d4ac846148146b164ed5b482b95d.jpgInvicta2_4.thumb.jpg.34a658fc2a1dcc6bd87b5c3fad1d1801.jpg

     

    I was a little more adventurous with this one...  

     

    Ground off the "INVICTA" logo and removed the Crown Guards.  The rest is standard fair, also added a Parnis P210 bracelet with solid endlinks.

     

    Invicta1_1.thumb.jpg.09de608c930578e4580929babf03e87f.jpgInvicta1_2.thumb.jpg.fb831e5b25b530d146e88947c39fa812.jpgInvicta1_3.thumb.jpg.04f56d0d3ce54c27be62610cc0821c32.jpgInvicta1-4.thumb.jpg.2dad0342b22389b5c423bbc22151f72f.jpg

    • Like 6
  9. Thanks @Sogeha!  This was my very first mechanical watch purchase back in the day.  I saw that unmistakable rose gold movement and was hooked! 

     

    I have no idea who polished the inside of the case back, I bought it in that condition.  Who knows what they were thinking.  :fool:

     

    I've seen some 60's era Connies without the gold observatory logo, but I think you're right - this is clearly not the original case back.

     

     

  10. I’ve had this ~1960’s Omega Constellation for years now.  It’s been to numerous watch makers over the years for service and restoration (had the dial redone, case polished, etc about 10 years ago).  No one has ever mentioned that parts of this watch weren’t authentic, but with all the knowledge I’ve learned from RWG, RWI and RepGeek over the past year, I’m starting to wonder what I have here…  Curious of any of your thoughts, especially since I would like to sell this in the near future.

     

    To my eyes, the second hand looks to be too short and upon closer inspection looks to have been cut short.

    Vintage_Connie_1.thumb.jpg.efd2fefd26476bc1fbb2721c03a5645e.jpg

     

     

    The crown looks genuine to me...

    Vintage_Connie_2.thumb.jpg.08cbab1ffbbcf1bff24bfb6a5d2317b1.jpg

     

     

    Here's a couple photos of the Genuine 561 movement:

    Vintage_Connie_5.thumb.jpg.608a606d12bbeee806b0f0e68635b208.jpgVintage_Connie_6.thumb.jpg.13253116f6026e8b3ba3b76b4f9997ae.jpg

     

    The case back looks genuine to me.  I've seen some bad fake versions on Google Images.  This looks much better than those.

    Vintage_Connie_8.thumb.jpg.6fc17d3c85f07d8016c75e2c451f0817.jpg

     

     

    This is where it gets interesting.  I believe the idiot who polished the case removed the factory swirls and did this brushed finish.  He almost removed the model number engravings (14900 SC-61).  The black sharpie is from my watchmakers recent service of the movement.  I don't believe the 14900 ever came with a 561 movement, so perhaps this an example of a replacement genuine case back?  This is the only major part (aside from the incorrect second hand) that is giving me pause about listing this as 100% genuine.

    Vintage_Connie_7.thumb.jpg.170ead27481758fb487bca8add418a0b.jpg

  11. Thanks for the reply.  I sent Star Time an email and they replied that the Disc is exactly what is displayed in their photo (similar to mine above). 

     

    You brought up another good point, that I should stop trying to be cheap and just buy the GEN Rolex Date Disc.  I think I'll start looking for one now.  :-)

     

     

  12. I'm curious why the Star Time Rolex "Style" 3135 Date Disc uses open 6's but only on 16 and 26...   I've heard of open 6 and 9 date wheels, but this seems strange to me.  Curious what the rolex experts think.  I was hoping to find a cheaper alternative to a GEN 3135 Date Disc for my JF 16610, but clearly this won't work.  :angry2:

     

     

    3135_Date-Wheel.jpg

  13. 2 hours ago, themannier said:

    Looks like JF did this explorer 214270 very, very well !! B)

     

    I own the V2 JF 214270, it's a magnificent Rep, with the best SEL fitment and recession that I've personally seen on any Rep.  Ryan @ Intime did a nice comparison against a GEN and NOOB version:

    https://www.intime01.co/rollie/3291-explorer-i-214270-2016-baselworld-39mm-v2-jf-1-1-best-edition-on-ss-bracelet-sa3132.html 

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