Timelord

Thanks!!  I tried to post higher resolution images but my iPad just isn't cooperating.  I purchased this case many moons ago and the seller was then known as TG trade according to my last PayPal receipt.  Problem is that he may have had both 2836 and 2824 cases, so I am not sure which case he would have sold me hoping that the internal dimensions would have revealed some info.  I notice it even now with most other sellers they label them as eta 2824/2836 cases which is annoying!!!

1 hour ago, alligoat said:

Show us which case you're looking at and maybe someone will know. 2836-2 cases are more prevalent IMO.

I will give it a go.  I am not sure how these images will help, but I guess that a picture says 1000 words.  

Made several edits but not sure if I nailed it this time

A while back before I knew bettter, I bought a sterile watch case on ebay that was advertised to suit eta 2836/2824 and ST2130.  As I now understand it ; if a case is built for a 2836 - a 2824 movement we'll not work ( due to stem hole not lining up properly with stem mvt ) and conversely,  if the case is made for a 2824, the 2836 obviously won't work due to the fact that it is too thick.    

Now, to all those who know more about this, is there  a way to tell for which of the two eta mvts the case is made for. Without having to buy both movements and try them out.  I emailed the seller whom I have purchased more times to ask if he had more details about what he sold me and honestly said he did no know apart that all he knew was that it was 2836/2824.  

I measured the internal with a Vernier caliper where distance from dial seat to stem hole centre was 2.2mm and to the edge of the case from dial seat was 5.5mm.  If these figures mean anything???  Thanks in advance!!

On 16 July 2017 at 0:47 AM, horologist said:

If any proof to how good a quality some of these "replica" pieces are, ii will leave the following images to be judged by the eye of the beholder.  

 

This is my first bue sunburst model I purchased in 2004 from Paul known at the time as aspire.  All thanks to our fellow emeritus member AUTOMATICO.  I Have worn this every day since I purchased it and serviced it only once in 2011 and  I have gone swimming and diving with it without a problem.  It has had the crown and tube changed to a generic one as I could not get the correct one with the rolex emblem from anywhere!!

 

The next one is one I purchased for my father for his 75th birthday in  2004 from Silix  (Jay and Angel) when Paul's website disappeared.   My dad  loved it so much and  it never left his arm.  Although he was retired, he was still servicing marine boat engines and this watch took a lot of punishment as you can see from all the scratches and the missing original bracelet.  Knowing Dad he also used it under water.  I took it for a service a couple of weeks before he died and  was always asking me about it.  Sadly, he never got to see it where ironically the watchmaker phoned me on the day of his funeral to pick it up.  I have left it untouched as a relic since as it has traveled with him to London, Italy and Australia which makes it very priceless to me being more valuable than any genuine.  If quality control is a issue here, then all products should come with eternal warranties

 

 

Very touching and emotional story.!!!!! Especially about your dad, bringing me close to tears in missing my late father!! It is posts like this that make belonging to this forum being beyond the love of a watch and  even more bizarre -replica watches or knock offs - whatever labels one puts on them!! I don't want to hijack this thread as  By-Tor's original post is along the same lines.  Lovely post by him too! I have both genuine submariner and a rep SSD V2 seadweller modified by Jakjo with all the hand made works including a genuine eta.  I value both very highly and really see little difference between both in terms of quality especially with all the attention done by the modder. I have never had an issue with my rep and it too has been a true workhorse, no different to any other genuine made watch.  I suppose if I replace the dial with a sterile one, it would be seen astronomically differently by the critics.  It can all Boil down to marketing where it is all in the mind.  It would take a room full of head shrinks to sort that one.  As you said quality control with high quality items letting you down, just says t is the luck of he draw.  Thanks for sharing!!!

13 hours ago, aflop said:

I believe you are facing a keyless issue. Simple fix for anyone who is well versed with the movement


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wished!!!!!! I replaced the uncut stem with an arbitrary crown and  all the time and date  setting worked normal, so I am certain it isn't keyless works.   

10 hours ago, Nanuq said:

https://rwg.cc/topic/92799-a-brevet-rebuild/

Thanks !!!!  Just what I was looking for and at the same time dreaded, as it would have been easier to replace the crown provided they were available.  Interesting read, however the photos would have helped if they weren't removed,

very educational !!!!

5 hours ago, mymanmatt said:

2834 is much preferred  The fact that the day wheel is over the date wheel allows more room than the 2836 for the dwo. The 2 movements are exactly the same but for a taller cannon pinion than the 2836. Better hand stack. I always use them when I can find them.

Thanks for pointing that out!!!!  I know that the date only mvt 2824 is not preferred because the DWO would not work well on it, but if one were to replace the canon pinion with a higher one as with the 2834', it should eliminate the problem with the 2824 which could then also be a good candidate for the DWO to work without problems?

I have a planet ocean 45.5 mm omega rep which has a faulty crown.  It screws on and off well but when turning it to set he time nothing happens.   I even checked the stem inside and it s definitely turns when I turn stem with  a tweezer

Ideal all solution is to buy one - all good in theory provided  it was available for sale, but as with rep parts  we know the same old story.  So I am stuck with making the most of what I have.   I recall reading years ago on one nawcc  site that.a certain guy named  Steve Maddox writing up about repairing them, but am not so sure how to go about it.  I am all ears for any feedback with thanks

Greetings fellows 

some time ago! I purchased a two tone submariner from a fellow member and it has been a great work horse,  When I opened it up to reattach one of the batons that had fallen off I noticed that the eta stamp read 2834-2 instead of 2836- which all of my other ones have and that everyone else here speaks about.

Has as anyone ever noticed this in any of their reps as my understanding is that only a 2836 would work because of the room for the date wheel overlay to function without rubbing against anything.    I am aware that a 2824 will not work either because of the lack of space under the dial since the canon pinion would be too short, but a 2834 has the exterior day wheel which sits above the date wheel which is just as bizarre .  It is puzzling to me unless the wrong number was stamped on the ebauche ???  I would appreciate some education from you guys more familiar on this!!!

thanks heaps!!!!

6 hours ago, kernow said:

Try looking in his TD section. 

 

https://rwg.cc/forum/274-torobravo/

A world of thanks!!!!  

On 4 July 2017 at 11:58 PM, kernow said:

If you know the maker try Toro as he's helped me in the past. 

Many thanks!!  If you have his contact details you can also PM me!

On 3 July 2017 at 4:21 PM, kernow said:

You could measure the inside diameter of the bezel and compare yo gen. or, how about asking silix for a replacement?

Thanks for your response!  Ideally I would have contacted Silix just as you said.!!  However from my previous experiences, they do not sell spare parts unless it advertised in their  components section.  In the days of when Jay and Angel were running Silix, they bent backwards to help out customers. 

I suppose anyone that has this bezel on theirs may be kind enough to measure theirs to inform me the measurements as different replica companies vary in their product sizes. 

Greetings fellows,

I have lost my bezel with orange insert to my 45 mm planet ocean omega I purchased from Silix a couple of years ago.

Does anyone know if the aftermarket ones sold for the genuine could substitute for a silix replica.  Just devastated with how it could have happened.   Any feedback would be greatly appreciated with thanks!!

He was one of my favourite British Leading men of the cinema.  I truly loved his British accent being very distinctive -even different from that of the Royal Family.  He and my late father also shared the same birthday and age.  I just loved the 1960's series "The Saint" and really admired the way the Rolex submariner looked on him in the Bond movie "Live and Let Die".  I was 8 when I first saw that movie on TV and always wanted a Rolex submariner. 

May he and Dad both rest in Peace with all those dearly departed loved ones that were once part of all our lives!!!!!

On 3 May 2017 at 11:32 AM, horologist said:

Great post and as always a very good topic !!!!!

 

We live in what I call the disposable age, where just about everything that we buy or get today is disposable.  We have disposable electrical appliances, disposable razor blades, dispsable cars, disposable jobs and sadly even disposable "friends" from the modern social circles which horrifically even extends to disposable families.  Not the sort of world I was accustomed to from my upbringing.  True but to some degree also very sad. so why would the modern cheaply £1 wrist watch be any different??

 

Gone are the days where we would call a TV technician. We still see classic cars from the past such as the Ford thunderbird, MG classic, DB5 Aston Martin, 1957 Chevy to mention just a few. How many cars built today will be classics of tomorrow???  It all comes down to practicality and affordability where to some advantages there are least equal and opposite disadvantages.  Newton's law generalized

 

A watch in the past was meant to last and in most cases also passed onto the next generation and beyond. ie-  An heirloom !!!.  I love this idea, but this would only come with the longevity of a traditionally made old school mechanical wrist watch where 95% of it could still be made by hand for generations to come -provided that an artisan will still exist!!!!!. Not so even with the best quartz watch!!!!  incluing the oyster quartz which was not only very ordinary, but also very unsightly with its bulky box stye case. Once the circuit dies, do does the watch!!!!  Sadly modern mechanical watches are following same trend with the silicone hairspring etc. where they are similar to a quartz watch without the battery

 

I wear a quartz watch for practicality and when It dies, I get one that comes free as a bonus in my corn flakes packet. Definitely not an heirloom!!!!  I also do not like a quartz watch purely on the basis that it is disposable very much like any modern electrical appliance.  The ch-ch flip on each second also appeared very weird to me when I first saw it back in the 1970's, but that isn't the real reason why I don't like them.  They are a different beast altogether!!  A wrist watch has always been a man's item where it was also a status symbol and about the only equivalence of a man's jewelry which could be passed onto future generations. 

 

On the other note, I recently was approached by a neighbor that asked me to look at their grandfathers 18k solid gold 1930 rectangular Omega that wasn't working.  Upon flipping the back off I was shocked to find a quartz Ronda movement.  It was certainly authentic but my mind went in a tailspin.  He mentioned that at service time, the watchmaker suggested that if it was to be worn frequently that it would be more pratical to replace the mechanism with an inexpensive quartz module that could  always be replaced cheaply and still have the old  movement  stored away for originality.  All it needed was a battery.  I then thought what a clever idea!!!!..  The past and present technology blended together.  When you think about it , nobody ever sees the module as all you see is the case and dial, very much like what most of us do as replica owners.  I love both my replica ( which is almost hand made with all the mods) and my mass produced genuine!!!!

Wow!!

A spectacular conclusion.!!You have hit the nail on the head full force and you have read most of our inner psychology!!  That truly sums it all up and I could not have put it better myself!! 

As for the quartz -every second tick, both rolex and omega- as well as other watch companies also made a mechanical model decades ago  that ticks like a quartz such as the rolex true beat for example, but weren't very popular.

i also agree with your comment on the replica as I also have a highly modded MBW submariner where I have genuine crown, case tube..dial and clark crystal kit and it has passed the pressure test with flying colors, even better than my genuine TAG.  I also look as it as almost hand made!!!! It is all in the psychology as if I replace it with a sterile dial, it is a genuine watch in it's own right!  Just look at the ocean steinhart!! I could have my name  printed on my sterile dial! Lol!

20 hours ago, imajedi said:

Almost every rolex rep sold uses a 2824, a dial spacer, and a DWO. I probably have an extra one laying around somewhere if you need one I can check.

All my rolex reps  that  I have all have 2836 or clone 2836 apart from one I purchased from another dealer that had a 2834 in it which puzzles me with how this one works as the day wheel is the curved outer one on the .2834

I have never seen a rolex rep with a 2824 which is why I posted this thread in the first place, so that if anyone has ever seen one or pulled theirs apart could hopefully enlighten me with how to go about  what I can do to duplicate  it.  I believe that the datewheel spacer that comes with a 2836 is different from one that comes from a 2824,unless I am mistaken which brings me back to where I started before posting this thread. 

Thanks for offering to find one, they are easily available on ebay, however the problem is finding the right one and then what modifications are needed to make it work?.

2 hours ago, SSTEEL said:

A dial spacer from a 2836 would work modified.  A TC movement holder depends on the inner mid-case construction, if its not gen spec it won't fit.

This sounds more interesting than I had imagined and again thanks for your input.  Seems to me that you have done something like this before. What modifications would you recommend apart from my guessing to sand this 2836 spacer?  This is what I like about forums like this, where people improvise & think outside the square.  It is almost like solving a mathematical puzzle.

To clarify what my aim is . A couple of years ago, I was was gifted an Alpha submariner which was a great everyday watch and was even great to swim in because it kept dry.  During day light saving, I stupidly  did not screw down the crown and somehow got water inside corroding the mvt and dial. Even though the watch was inexpensive , the case is still good  and I have a spare eta submariner dial and DWO, but case will only accept 2824    otherwise an eta 2836 would have solved the situation

8 hours ago, SSTEEL said:

Yes, its possible, its a tight fit though to squeeze it in there, the TC2824 has the DWO too.

 

If you have the parts, experience and materials, you can pretty much fabricate a custom dial washer on a lathe.  The TC2824 comes with its own movement holder which aids the DWO placement, and in later TC builds with this movement TC used a paper washer on the leading edge of the movement holder itself.  Without this, you can run the risk of the DWO rubbing the underside go the dial.

Many thanks!!!  

So a dial spacer that comes for eta 2836 could not work as a dial washer if it can be sanded down to make it thinner if the problem would be thicknessl????  Or is it possible to buy a TC 2824 movement holder from somewhere as  this is news to me.  Never seen one

Just wondering as It  first time, I would be working with a 2824, being novice with this!

thanks!!!

Greetings to all,

I have a date wheel overlay for a raffles submariner dial with dial feet for eta.  I see a lot of eta submariners with DWO on 2836, but none on 2824.  Since my watch case is made for a 2824 and it would not work with a 2836, could a DWO work on an eta 2824?  

(The distance from the stem centre opening of the case to the dial mount is 2.2mm which would make it a case for eta 2824)

thanks!!

Cartier Santos back screws

Greetings to all ,

I was searching archives to see if anyone had this problem before me and if there was some solution/ idea but no luck.

about three or four years ago, I purchased a Cartier Santos from Silix that originally came out with an automatic and was later replaced with a quartz mvt.  Changing the battery was easy, BUT

the problem was when I tried to screw the back screws to close off the case, I noticed they would tun forever and not screw down at all.  I was extra careful in removing them and putting them back on.  I did not want to silicone the back onto case as it is a bodgie dodgie job, especially if I need to change battery again and having to remove a lot of messy crap.  I like things to be as neat as possible.

Has as anyone ever encountered this problem and if so,  I would like your feedback on this.  The best would be to retap  the threads and buy new screws, which I do not find feasible for I watch that I had bought for someone that changed their mind about it.

22 minutes ago, alligoat said:

There's no way to fit a gen SD bezel to a SSD. First of all, you must realize that the Rolex SD is a beast unto itself and the unique case construction has never been copied- hell, even Rolex needs special tools to mess with a SD (16660 and 16600). SSDs have a rep bezel assembly- nothing close to gen.

Your best bet is to get a BP SD and go from there- but other than a bezel insert, forget about gen parts other than the old crown and tube mod. 

Thanks again.  It is just that someone local has a very impressive one for sale at what I think is a great price, but was in a dilemma as to either pull the trigger or just play wait for something more like a BP SD for later Was Nice to get feedback

11 hours ago, alligoat said:

I believe Jackjo modified SSD V1s and SSD V2s. I've never heard of anyone using a Silix SD.

Insert on the SSD is standard SD size which is slightly smaller than a 16800/16610 insert

Crystal size is 30.5mm as I recall.

Forget about replacing the bezel- there are no substitutes.

Jackjo used to be on RWI as I recall, you might see if he has a section over there.

 

Thanks for your input.  Much appreciated!!!! I had almost given up on hoping for a response!

Wow,  I learn something new every day.  I was under the impression that jackjo used ordinary sub cases and modified them to be as close to the genuine case.  I was unaware  that he used SSD V1s & SSD V2s and then made further modifications to them.  Makes sense as the one I have seen seems to have a smaller diameter dial opening and thicker case which is what puzzled me as to what sort of case he used to do mods on .  They must have been fairly good!!!  

As there is no substitute for a bezel, would a genuine seadweller Bezel fit or was it a particular sized bezel that was tailor made just for this case???

Hi to all, 

am considering to purchase a jackjo seadweller from a local owner which is fairly well priced , but before pulling the trigger, I was worried about what replacement parts it takes such as bezel, crystal and inserts in the event I need to replace them.

i have done some research on past forum topics and know thaw jackjo was an excellent modder who no longer works on these cases and made a great case from a standard silix case to be as close as to the real thing as possible, but did not necessarily accept oem parts.

does anyone who has or has had worked on this case know 

(1) what bezel insert it takes and if an oem one will do?

(2)crystal size?

(3) if the whole bezel needs to be replaced if a standard one or I'm one will be a good substitute??

Long shot questions, but any info wold be greatly appreciated with much thanks!!!

 

. Some parts will interchange, some will not.

Which is what makes life very difficult as to know which parts interchange and which don't.  Then, even if one knows which parts do not interchange, there is the problem of where to source clone parts!I guess that this is what he probably meant that when they play up, they become a throwaway and referred to them as junk mvts

Thank you both Automatico & Mymanmatt!!

As it was very late at night, I forgot to mention that he also commented on the train with the cheap wheels.  Depending on which clone you get, some are better than others.   I personally don't have anything against these clones, but if someone tries to sell you a clone at the price of a genuine, preying on one's ignorance or vulnerability then that presents a problem. Period!!

My other concern is if eta clones can interchange with genuine spare parts, then I don't mind as I can always maintain the mvt.

I have sourced many references and websites to learn to distinguish clones from the real deal, but I have also confronted some inconsistencies and inaccurate information where I can take a gamble hoping that the seller is honest.  I have been scammed before with other items and not just here, but that is the risk one takes!!

Of course, I would always buy an eta clone with the stampings from a seller that declares it as such, because at least I know that he is honest!!!!

Just by pure coincidence,  as I was coming out of the watch supply house on Friday I bumped into a retired watch maker who I had my first discussion on eta clones and eta compatible mvts many moons ago.   I recall at the time that he had complemented the clones as being good value for money and that they were the same standard as the genuine etas.

I brought up the discussion again and this time he had a different opinion altogether.   He called them junk movements as even though some have great accuracy and great time telling qualities,  it not as durable nor lasting as the original movt., He said that when they play up they are really a throw away.  He mentioned that the escapement wheel is of poor quality, wearing out quicker and the pallet fork is also of substandard quality which needs replacing sooner than your coffee money in a supermarket.  The balance  hair spring is ok but nothing special as it too has a frequency of premature wearing.  What worries me is that some of these clones also have stampings and all the hallmarks of genuines often making them more indistinguishable from the real McCoy eta.  Is there a tutorial or write up as to what to look for when buying a genuine or a clone as it is getting harder and more challenging to buy and then having to return, especially of charged full price of a genuine??