hanski

20 hours ago, wghiggins said:

Looks great!  Where'd you source the pushers?

Thanks! Honestly back then I didn't know what I know now (isn't that a song or something?). I measured the remaining pusher and case to determine what size I needed BUT I didn't know how to express that sizing in common terms for purchase. I ended up buying an assortment of pushers off eBay. Now I would order from Startime, Ofrei, or Jules Borel. 

6 hours ago, Nanuq said:

OK, that seconds hand is much better.  I like the hours hand but the minutes hand seems more like a "Maxi" minutes than the nice skinny hand that came in the mid 70s.  Compare what you have with the photo of my Nastymariner.  My minutes hand looks 2/3 as wide as yours.

 

And what's with the spelling on your dial?  Did someone skip the QC photos?   

 

Looks like you need to update your internet connection, an “L” fell off in transit 😉

I believe the  hands are correct to a late 60’s matte dial 5512. The hour does look “maxi” and based on my research, it should. 
In the case of this watch, my set is gen. 

On 3/30/2020 at 1:17 AM, Nanuq said:

Unfortunately, the hours and minutes hands are slightly off too.

 

That's the problem with going to the Nth degree with a build, there's always  something  you can do better to make it look more realistic.  Once you've gone this far, you need to call it good, or go ahead and take it to the end.  There are several tutorials here that show the differences between different hands sets.  You'll want a set with an asymmetrical triangle tip to the hours hand, and a minutes hand that extends to the minutes ring.  Then you'll have to decide if the age you're representing with the watch needs flat or "curved" hands.

 

This is the logical conclusion of a high end build.  Once you start throwing big money at it with rarely sourced parts, you really need to go ahead and take it to the finish line.

 

You had to go and say something about the hands...how about now? 

1 hour ago, Dan71 said:

[mention]Nanuq [/mention] I have never understand what mean tapered second hand ..
Do you mean the shape of the hands is narrow on the point than the base ?

See the taper from the lime plot to the tip? 

9 hours ago, Nanuq said:

This is such a great result ... have you thought about your hands?  With that nice Vietnam dial maybe you should step up the hands a notch and go for a tapered seconds hand.  It's subtle but it's part of the final finished look.

 

Agreed, it would have set that one off. I’ve since sold it. Moved on to other projects: 

1 hour ago, ohmer said:

I found the assembly from a supplier in TX. I will try a crystal from Ofrei first.

Thanks again.

Yes, WSO (wholesaleoutlet) is a good source for a decent bezel assembly. Watchman our of California is also decent. 
If you are considering spending a bit extra, Minh Quy or Jewelry and Watch (JAW or Phong) are both more expensive but better quality. Their inserts are also better. 

10 hours ago, ohmer said:

Hello, 

I have a JKF 1680, the crystal that came with it broke, I got a Clark 25-127, its inner diameter is bigger than the original one.

How are these plexi crystal fitted? Is there a crystal that will fit this case? Any tricks to fit it?

The watch by Hanski is absolutely beautiful, stunning.
Thank you very much for your time.

Interesting. When I built this project, the Clarks crystal fit snugly on the case but the OD was smaller than the JKF retaining ring. I had to get a different bezel assembly. 
I would guess tolerances of either Clark’s or JKF are not perfect and something changed. Try getting a different 25-127 crystal. Try Ofrei. See if you have the same problem. If that’s the case, then it’s the case. in which case you should measure the OD of the rehaute. Then look in a GS catalogue for a crystal with the right sized ID. 
That or you could always glue it - not my preferred method though. 

6 hours ago, RickFlorida said:

Hello everyone,

 

I'm going to attempt to repair my keyless works on a 2824-2 and with friendly help and the power of youtube, I think I know the steps to fix the keyless works except for removing the power from the main spring.

I'm assuming you are not supposed to just let the watch wind down but you have to actually do something to remove or stop power from spring before working on keyless works?   My oscillating weight is removed but I think there is still power in there as soon as you touch or move the movement.  I don't know all part names or numbers so a link to a video would be great if you have it.

 

Thank you.

A rare and exceptional build, reference 15000 with a special dial made for the King Khaled Military Academy National Guard of Saudi Arabia. 

Gen champagne dial with large central logo, gen case set, gen crystal, gen crown, gen ETA 2824, aftermarket hand set, Arabic DWO, “Rolex” rotor, and bracelet. 

The oversized, colorful dial is striking - particularly on the wrist. Reminds me of some of the hand painted PP’s. Had to add a wrist shot to capture its brilliance.

49 minutes ago, keeper said:

I saw your filthy surfaces in your preamble. I can't bear to read the rest.

 

How did it all turn out?

Funny you should ask - my first project ended up with an errant candy wrapper, clump of mud, 7 curly hairs, old diaper, and an astonishing amount of dust stuck in the movement. I never understood why that happened...

But in all seriousness, the stains on my vyco didn’t jump onto my watch. My 9411 is my daily wearer - water resistance tested to 6atm and adjusted in several positions to wear at +2sec per day consistently for the last three months. 

FFS - that’s not going to work at all! Looks like it’s going back to be redone again. 

Glad I posted, that slipped my attention. 

And so the saga continues. I picked up a gen Tudor snowflake dial from ChronoShop a few months back. It was cheap and for good reason, practically none of the dial was left. After discussions with the various, professional dial refinishers, Kirk Rich in CA took on the project. 

Given the condition of the dial and my desire for a blue dial, I opted to have them refinish as gloss blue. Interestingly, Lou said a lot of owners send in their black dials to be refinished in blue. Hmmm...

It took some time to get done, like 6-7 weeks. There was a bit of back and forth on the blue color - with a few tests and QC pics. Then it was from blue background to done and in my mailbox without another word. 

Lou was good to work with but I’m not 100% satisfied with the end result. I can see he used a screen print, not pad printing. The hour ticks touch the lume plots. And a couple of the lume plots are slightly misaligned. 

I’m probably going to end up keeping it without much fuss anyways. The time I’ve waited for it to be done combined with my excitement to continue on with my 7016 project overwhelms my urge to have him do it again. Anyways, since it’s been refinished, it could always be refinished again some time in the future. Which begs the question, when is something real? Sure, the providence of this dial and the process of refinishing it makes it “legit”. But in the end it’s just a piece of metal with a picture printed on it. Maybe thoughts for another thread...

Another note, I asked them to refinish without providing lume. I wanted to do that myself. I’ve gone ahead and applied a light pumpkin orange lume to the plots. Next, on to adding some patina to the hands, relume them, and start assembly on the Tudor 2461 movement. 

11 minutes ago, Nanuq said:

But..... how am I going to get my Land Rover in an envelope?   

The festive wrapping would be a delight but I'd be okay if you just use white or brown paper. 

2 minutes ago, Nanuq said:

When the time comes?  What time?  You mean I'm not going to live forever?!   

I was thinking noon today, obviously. The time you pack it up and mail to me.  

Good discussion! 

@Nanuq please don’t let your 6536 fall into the hands of someone like PS at RPR. Find it a good home when the time comes. 

My short education in the watch world has lead me to the conclusion the the dial, insert, midcase, and movement are the essence of any watch. But even in saying that I think there are exceptions and I don’t know that I fully agree with myself. I recently acquired a very badly damaged gen tudor 7016 dial - to the point of more than 50% of it had flaked off. It’s currently being refinished by a legit professional with some of the original artwork. So, sure it’s a gen dial, but is it? What is it to be authentic? If we can refinish a gen dial, why not any dial? And why stop with the dial, why not any part? 

This is lead me to the movement. This still seems like the element that isn’t clone-able. I found myself quickly moving from budget Asian builds, to gen Swiss movements, to gen branded movements. I’ve found the gen movements to be nothing but a pleasure to work on compared with clones. Things just fit/work. 

I stand by the movement being the essence of the watch. I think there is great value in using a gen movement in any watch project. 

I only wish wish I had gotten into this hobby 4-8 years ago. Gen Rolex movements have soared out of my price range. So I’ve turned to the next brand in line, Tudor. The movements are still affordable and very robust. I’ve also come to really like the aesthetic of the brand. So win-win I suppose. 

6 hours ago, kernow said:

Any updates? Personally I like the relume. It’s all about what pleases you though. 

No real updates - it’s keeping great time after a bit of regulating. I have not pursued having the case rechromed but maybe I will in the future. I’m enjoying it as a nice vintage chrono. 

2 hours ago, MrThompspnR said:

Can’t get enough of this one. Where’d you get that dial? 

2 minutes ago, Agarp said:

Thanks, I found that dealer aswell but can never get the pictures to load:/

Email Phong and ask for the photos: pdinh480@gmail.com

On 1/29/2019 at 12:00 PM, Nanuq said:

Wow, simply wow! I have to ask, why reps when you have a gen like that? 

10 hours ago, Agarp said:

I'm looking for a rep dial similar to the one on the picture. I've tried yoki and some of the other td's often mentioned here but no luck. Can anyone point me in the right direction?:)

http://www.jewelryandwatch.com/contents/en-us/d135.html#p987

NOT a TD

15 minutes ago, Nanuq said:

Lookin’ good! What are the specs on this one? 

The PNW is snowed in with an unprecedented 12” of fresh powder! At least I can still tell the time...

6 minutes ago, jackflash said:

Excellent! Now what’s your next build

 

My Tudor 2562 is in good working order, albeit waiting on a stem. I think I will wait on the blue dials to be available with Phong again in April(ish) to do that blue dial build I want. It’ll be a 7021/0 but that’s cool. 

The Tudor 2561 needs some work - missing some of the keyless works and some various screws. I will be working to get that running to eventually tackle a 7016/0. 

I present for your viewing pleasure a 1981 Genstein Franken Tudor 9411/0. The project started out with the purchase of a genuine Tudor 2784 movement and went from there. 

- Gen Tudor 2784 movement, fully disassembled, cleaned, oiled, and rebuilt. Required new automatic works bridge, balance wheel, keyless works, and stem. Unfortunately I have not sourced a glucydur balance wheel so it’s nickel for now

- Gen 704 Rolex crown and tube

- MQ mid case and case back. Fully reshaped & tapered lugs and lightly repshaped CG’s. Chamfers recut and case repolished. Tube retapped and countersunk to accept gen tube 

- Phong bezel assembly and insert. Lightly aged and repolished

- Phong dial relumed

- TC hand set, aged in Pacific Ocean water and organic apple cider vinegar, relumed to match dial

- Verlux 25-125 crystal

- Erika’s Original MN strap

- And the odds and ends, gaskets lubed, new dial seat, new case clamps, new movement ring, pressure fit all parts, etc