sander

http://apbands.com/shop/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ROO-SCREWS&Category_Code=BARCAP&Product_Count=2

Here you go!

If you use a steel bezel and put a set of Safari hands on it, it could be a nice one of a kind.

Or you can buy a white tachy from me

hup hup hup.... put them in an envelope and send them to me!

Very nice combo.
I noticed that the bezel screws have not the same hight. The ones at 10, 2 and 4 are lower than the rest.
For me this is always a big tell.

You can solve this by putting some small dial washers under it to raise them. You probably can also use some
aluminum foil.

can't wait!

Thanks for the update mate  

That looks really great

I'll take 4!

Good job man!

I Love the way you pay attention to all the little details.

Crown next?

Why lowering the movement? I trust the movement is well fit into the case and lock in place.

How can lowering the moevment is possible? And what's the point of doing it?

The crown position on a 7750 movement is in line with the chrono pushers.

On a 2892 movement with DD module, the crown is placed lower than the pushers.

In order to make it work, you have to lower the movement or make extensions for the pushers.

One minor nitpick: if possible, try to turn down the bezel in order to lessen the gap between the crystal and the tachy ring.

Nice build man! I have the same

It's also very nice with a bracelet! much better than I expected.

The problem with lowering the movement is the cap between the tachy and the crystal. The biggest issue is that the crystal is pressed inn, from from the inside of the bezel instead of from the outside.

So normaly the crystal is hold in place by the tachyring.

In this case (with the cap), the crystal is only hold by a very very thin edge of the bezel (this edge is like 0,5mm). if you push the crystal with your thumps, you can probably push it in.

So for water resistance it's not the best construction.

I have solved this by lowering the movement not as far as yours. Also I have shaved the gasket between the bezel and case a little. You will not see this but it's enough to keep the crystal in place.

I would do one other mod if I were you http://www.rwg.cc/topic/137108-how-to-mod-your-ap-pusher/page__hl__%2Bpusher+%2Bsander

Ciao,

Sander

fake!

The easiest way is to make it and hand wound model. I personally prefer that.

I think the watch looks way better and I don't care to wind it every morning.

Since I wear a different watch every day, I have to wind them anyhow

Just remove all the winding gears and you have plenty of room. Also it will wind very smooth.

If you want to keep it an automatic, you can shave the inside of the case back.

Be careful, it's not really thick because of the engraving. Together with a lower rotor I managed to make it work 2 times.

It's very tricky though but it can be done. And yes, not all the rotors have the same thickness.

I have the H from Andrew and the 2 biggest problems for me are the Cyclops which is not in the middle of the date window and the poorly aligned pin that holds the roller ball of the GC.

For the rest I'm pretty happy with it. The finish is great and the bezel feels realy good..smooth but firm.

If the Noob one has a better crystal and GC, I might get that one as well for these 2 part only

Very nice improvement!

I guess I also have to do this with my pam 183.

Question:

How did you take care not to polish the middle part of the winding gears?

I'm thinking of some kind of washer to stick on there for protection.

Can you tell me how you did it?

Thx mate!

You have to remove the bezel, it comes out via the front...

Yes, the bezel can be removed by 6 (if I remember well) screws which are visable when the case back is removed

Very nive build sir!

Thanks for the report!

Can you let me know how the bezel feels and sounds when you turn it?

It looks good but it's not ok.

The outline should be silver and not gold.

If I look at this picture, the paint is removed and now it show's the brass dial.

OK had a look the pictures dont work but I think I managed to see one of then. Assuming this is the finished product.

what do you guys think. I think its beautiful. I really want to get this mod.

Thanks sander. I was wondering what took you so long to chime in.

I'm lovin' this one!!

Busy man busy!

another myth. Serviced by someone like The Zigmeister the A7750 is as good. The reliability problem with asian movements is the poor condition some of the come. With proper oil and cleaning I don't see anything structurally wrong with the A7750.

Yep

What happend here.... I missed this one!

Great build man.

I have build one like this myself but unfortunately it was for a friend of mine.

Looking at it....I might build me another one.....my last one! (perhaps)

It was me who wrote that.

The easiest way to shave the pushers is when they are spinning.

So it really doesn't matter if it's done with a Dremel or with a regular drill.

You just need to be sure not to over-tighten it because the pusher tubes are fragile.

Realy funny to see that the dealers used another idea from me.

FIrst they copied my date wheel fix for the Big Pilot and now they are shaving the pushers as well?

good job man! I love those fantasy models.