sander
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Posts posted by sander
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First of all.....if you plan to use a rep dial with a LWO movement, you can stop right now.
The rep dial will not fit the LWO movement.
It's not the subdials but the date window which will not work.
I'm not on RWI so I can't see your link. I guess it's this one right? if not, perhaps you can post some pics of it.
http://www.rwg.cc/topic/117528-barrichello-frank/
As you can see, the date looks terrible.
Why bother putting in a LWO movement which will look terrible while the rep movement is pretty reliable and looks great?
Another issue will be the hands. If you don't have the gen hands, you need to make a new hand tube for the minute hand and a new hour wheel for the hour hand.
The tubes of the chrono hands needs to be shorted and broached. Since the tubes are made of butter and are connected poorly to the hands, it's pretty tough.
Next issue is the movment ring. you have to design and make a new one.
The crown can be lowered but is not a must. If you do not lower it, you have the make extensions for the pushers.
A gen tachyring has to be shaved. A rep tachy will fit a rep dial.
The next question is: are the movements you have complete? so with cannon pinion and hour wheel. If not, you can not use them at all.
Good luck with the build!
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Thanks for taking the time Angus.
Although I'm more an AP guy, the Noob one looks pretty good and alsmost made me pull the tricker...
Ciao,
Sander
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screws
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I hope to work with Taka on this. Actually there are two variations of gen DWs. One with a fairly white background (I have one in the flesh), and one with an ivory background. So there's some difference there too.
It would be great if he can produce them. For me it's the biggest tell.
How much for the gen DW?
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I noticed on a ROO that I bought from a member that indeed black rubbery stuff was sticking out....It drove me crazy...and a member told me it might mess up some of the waterproofing...but visually I couldn't stand it...so I took a toothpick and just scraped and scraped until it stopped poking out of the bezel screw holes...Then I used one of the high compress air thingees that you use to clean keyboards to blow out any little bits of rubber...that was a stupid idea...because next thing I know...the crystal is hazy because the cold air got in and condensed on the inside of the crystal....some light hair dryer action and sitting it out in the sun fixed it, it seems...
Bottom line: I'm an idiot
That should not be possible because the bezel screws do not have effect on the waterproofing. The gasket for the bezel and the case back is between the movement and the holes for the screws.
The only effect it might have is that the screws are loose since you removed the rubber washer. If you tighten the back screws it should be water resistent again.
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Well the end links on the rep are a better fit than the gen..... uhhhh it actually depents on how it's designed.
The rep ones are very tight and the gen ones have a gap.
If you want a gen look and feel use the AP bands end links. They cost a lot but do the job.
The AR on the cyclops is just something they have added to the later models.
The problem with the bezel screws can be solved by re-brushing the bezel. The holes will look sharper and tighter to the screws.
The hight of the screws can be solved with small dial washers. Just add as many as you need. You can also use thin pices of aluminum foil.
After the case back is tightned, I always check the bezel screw if it's straight. If not (about 90% of the time) I give it a little twist with a screwdriver to fix it.
For me the biggest tell is the date wheel. It would be great if someone can make an off-white model whith the right font and thickness. (for the ETA 2892-A2 model)
To fixed bezel screws:
(the first pic also has AP Bands end links)
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Very very nice build
Even if the price was the same as a gen, I would enjoy it more than the gen.
It's just so much fun when you finally complete it and wear it for the first time. Way better than just pay for it!
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Hi Sander
Just did mine with them still in the watch, masked off the watch leaving just the pusher exposed and used a very fine nail file emory board thingy to gradually re-shape the pusher. took about 5 mins and looks awesome!
ill put some more pics up later but for now here is one off my Blackberry:
oh and its my girlfriends nail file before anyone asks!!
also in the photos only the reset pusher is done so you can see the differance.
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Guy's.... this is one of the easiest mods I've seen here.....
Just put the steel rod of the pusher in the Dremel and shape the rubber with fine sandpaper.
I would absolutely not try to remove the rubber from the steel rod.
First of all, I think it's not possible to do without damaging the rubber and/or the rod.
Secondly, how do you want to take it off while it's still in the case?
And finally, I really would not know how to shape it evenly if it's not spinning.
Removing the movement and the pushers is pretty simple. To shape the pusher while it's in the Dremel, can't go wrong as long as you do it at a slow speed and look like
every 3 seconds what the progress is.
The rubber comes off like a very fine powder so no big chunks or whatever.
This is not rocket science!
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cool, do you have any pics with them on the watch?
cheers
lando
Not on the watch but in the case. Hope this works for you.
(Sorry for the terrible pics!)
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Thanks for the complements guys!
There is no way you can do this with the pushers installed in the watch.
If you just turn it at a slow speed and use a very fine grid sandpaper ( I used 1000) , there is not much that can go wrong.
Just look at about every 3 seconds untill you have te required shape.
It really makes a difference!
The gen is a little darker but that's because it's an older one.
If you have a new gen pusher, you can't really tell the difference.
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One of the problems (small one thought!) with the current APROO is the shape of the chrono pushers.
The rep one is completely flat on top of it while the gen is a little rounded.
Lando started a topic about it and it started me thinking. See here: http://www.rwgforum....t-round-enough/
Although some of the reactions were that it’s just a small flaw, It’s actually one of the parts I look at to judge if the watch is gen or not.
This morning I gave it a try and this is the result. (gen on the right)
I’m pretty happy with the result.
How to:
Put the pusher with the steel tube in a Dremel.
Spinn it at a slow speed and shape it with a 1000 grid sandpaper.
It takes about 1 minute and the result is great!
Be careful not to take off too much!
Good luck!
Sander
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I was asking because the pushers seems to be rounder than the standard ones and also the crown construction is totally differend.
The sec @ 12 crowns has a loose cap with the logo engraved on it. It is pushed on to keep the rubber on place.
This one is very differend.
Als the numbers on the dial seems a little thin to me.
Strange
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it's not the seconds @ 12 model is it?
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the size is 22mm
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What are the "tells" on this one?
Ok, here you go:
Silver outline arround the numbers
Minute and hour hands
Date window too close to the tachyring
Poor alignment of the date wheel and chrone minute hand (do you really think that AP would install it like this :-)
Position of the lug screws
Flat pushers
wrong crown position
the 8520 number on the back
The stud on the buckle of the bracelet and also the engraving on it.
The text on the tachyring should be bolder
No paperwork
Did I forgot something?
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Very nice build man!
Did the bezel fit the rep case?
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they look pretty good man!
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It takes hours and hours of testing to solve problems like this.
Best and cheapest way is to get it overhauled.
It takes a few hours but then at least ALL the parts can be checked, cleaned and properly lubed.
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I have encountered the following problem on more than one A7750. The chrono stops when activated and stops the movement with it. Shaking the watch sometimes gets everything moving again, but then it stops again around the point where the minute counter is advanced. If I loosen the screws of the automatic device bridge a bit the chronograph works fine. (Obviously, operating any buttons in this state would risk jamming the chronograph mechanism and possibly damaging delicate parts.)
I wonder if especially the watchsmiths have found whether there is a single culprit that is mostly causing this.
Dirt! get it serviced....
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quick and dirty shot...
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Very nice straps mate!
How to Franken a RBII ?
in The Audemars Piguet Area
Posted
I have a good Idea.....how about putting in a 7750 movement..... they have the DW more to the right so that it will fit the rep dial.
Man why didn't we think of that
:clap2: 