DemonSlayer

The rotor is covering the part of the movement which can be more helpful in ID'ing your movement.

Is that large silver gear in your picture polished or brushed? If polished it is likely a clone ETA movement. If you can take a clear, well lit pic of the rotor on the opposite side, it would be more helpful.

That looks like a clone ETA movement to me. the overall finish of the movement is doesn't look on par with gen ETA, the engraving on the rotor looks consistent with clone ETA rotors. If that big gear is polished, 99% that its a clone movement.

Woah!

Thanks M, your answer is much appreciated. I thought this thread wasn't gonna get an answer I'll need some time to digest this info. Cheers bro.

Theres a couple of ways you can do this.

1)Some members submerge the entire bracelet in oil and leave it in there for either a couple of hours, or overnight. (Usually inside a ziplock bag or air tight container). Personally I find this method wasteful because of the amount of oil needed (I'm a cheapskate ).

2)Another method is to pour oil onto the bracelet, twist the links to work the oil into the joints, and then leave the bracelet in a ziplock bag or air tight container for either a couple of hours or overnight.

3)The really quick method is to pour oil on the bracelet, and really work it into the links. Leave it alone for about 10 mins and then wash of the excess oil. This is probably the least effective way but still a significant improvement than out of the box.

I've had really good results from method no.2 and I usually leave it overnight.

Buy one, you won't be disappointed, trust me. I initially bought mine for cleaning watch bracelets/parts, but I've found several other handy uses for it as well! As Freddy333 once told me "no WIS should be without one"

I want to see this one replicated:

What does Liverpool have?

:lol:

Woah great gesture Nikki6, very kind of you! The watch looks wicked bro, definitely a "wedding watch"

Wash with soapy water. Just don't go overboard with it, the aim being to remove the excess oil on the surface of the links only. The oil that has worked its way in to the bracelet joints will keep doing its job and won't get removed.

Amazing pics Lani! The Skyland looks nice but I think it would look out of place on my wrist. The BCE is probably a better choice for me.

I'm just getting into the hardware aspect on computers. I've spent the last few hours reading up on clock speeds, cycles, RAM configurations, FSB and other settings. Must say the information is overwhelming for a newbie, I'm finding it difficult to grasp the meanings.

I have an older computer running on a AMD Athlon XP 2100+ processor. This processor has an FSB speed of 133MHz, but delivers an actual FSB speed of 266Mhz due to its "double pump" feature. I recently bought a 1GB DDR400 PC3200 RAM module. The motherboard has two memory slots. It can support 2 RAM modules @ PC2700(DDR333) or PC2100(DDR266), but only 1 slot can be used if I am inserting a PC3200 DDR400 module.

The jumper setting for the cpu FSB frequency on the motherboard is set to 266Mhz. On the BIOS, the CPU host frequency is set to "auto" and it detects a frequency of 133Mhz.

The DRAM frequency was previously set to "auto" but I changed it to "200MHz [DDR400]" because I thought that gives me fastest speed out of the RAM module.

The DRAM CAS Latency is also set on "auto" on the BIOS. I can choose from 3T, 2.5T, 2T and Auto.

A couple of questions:

1)Shall I set the jumper setting manually on the motherboard to 133Mhz, or leave it as it is currently set to 266Mhz. I thought it might be better to change it to 133Mhz as the processor runs at 133Mhz (but supposedly delivers actual speed of 266Mhz).

2)Is it best to leave the DRAM frequency to 200Mhz - DDR400 or shall I choose a lower setting, or leave it on auto. Is the RAM actually working to its full potential or are there any tweaks I can do to make it run faster.

3)As the CPU has a FSB speed of 133Mhz (266Mhz effective), does this mean that the RAM module can only run at 133Mhz, or can it run to 266Mhz (as that is the effective speed of FSB on this CPU).

4)Can I buy an another RAM module with the same specs as the current one, and then change the DRAM frequency to either DDR333 or DDR266 for both slots so that the motherboard can use them both?

Any help is greatly appreciated, thank you.

I'm thinking about trying to get a Patek when I can come to thinking about rebuilding my collection Would I be right in thinking that is the grey dial, rather than the black dial?

You won't be disappointed with this one bro. It is pricey for the rep world, but then a steal when you compare it to retailers as to what you are actually getting for your money. You are essentially getting a gen PP Nautilus minus the movement and a little bit skimpy on the dial But then you can't really complain on the savings you make can you

That dial is black, but its matte, unlike the new one which is a black glossy finish. This one appears a dark slate grey when light hits it in a certain angle. I'll be getting this one very soon, have it relumed and then swap it out with my current one.

As it happens I'm wearing it right now:

Robbie, once again you help me out greatly Thanks bro.

The MBK PPN is still my favourite watch. Finished in gen-like flawless quality, I thought why not get it serviced and re-lumed so I can read the time during the night. The lume on the MBK isn't all that great.

I'm having trouble finding any lume shots of the gen, so I don't have a clue of the basic color of the lume. I'm not particularly bothered whether or not the gen lume is strong or weak, as I want it strong for my needs.

If anyone can find any decent lume shots of the gen, I would be grateful if you could post them here. Thanks in advance.

Personally I think it looks much better with the seconds hand. The only watches I prefer without seconds hand are quartz

Because this rep is a mixture of several Nautilus models. Not accurate on looks, but far superior to possibly any rep available in build quality & fit-finish.

Parts for these are practically impossible to source, its not worth supplier's time as the movements cost about $20. I have a couple of dissected asian movements. I'm not sure if they still have those springs (I remember losing one too) but I'll have a look. Theres no guarantee it will fit though.

Rosso, check out my Rado's for sale, all of them are high quality

Rado's for sale

I think I just need more practice Toad. I couldn't get the stem removed in winding position, it kept moving to date setting and then time setting position. Unfortunately my first try-out on an A7750 messed up the keyless on my Slevin, but mistakes happen.

Inserting stem, 7750 turn stem while inserting till it stops, then press on the release pin and push the stem in place, it takes a hard push on this one to seat it. Little risk of popping the keyless works out of place.

Here The Zigmeister says to press the release button, several other members also say the same thing. Am I missing something here? Toad, do you mean that you only push the button until you hear/feel a click?

Thanks for the responses. I am having a trouble positioning it on the movement properly so the case back can then close. However I'm getting the watch serviced so the watchmaker should be able to install it properly.

thanks Toad. Whatever it is, I just pushed it in into the caseback and it somehow fitted.

UPDATE: I have now re-cased the watch. At one point during the stem insert, I was so sure I screwed up the keyless. It took me a lot of attempts, and at times I felt like I didn't know what was happening. Everytime I thought the stem was in, when I would pull it to time setting mode it would pull out. Then the seconds at 9 started running with the stem out. Finally I managed to get it in, but I don't think I will be trying this again for a long time Everything seems to be running OK, chrono's are resetting.

Thanks Nikki6 & mbr1983. I'll let you guys know if I managed to put it all together, without messing any thing up like the keyless

Ah well, here goes nothing!

Obviously it didn't Nikki6. I really wish it did though, but the watch will soon be sorted out, and I'll also have a small mod done to it too.

I thought gaskets were rubber, but this must be a different type of gasket I haven't seen. So I just place it on the circle on the caseback?

I'm now going to put my Slevin back to get it serviced after I decased it to remove moisture out of the watch.

When I unscrewed the caseback and lifted it off, this came out:

Anyone know how where it goes?

Thanks Andy. I had a little bit of trouble with some of the links when adjusting my slevin. The cyclinder, or whatever it is that holds the pins in place, on a couple of the links its not holding the pins properly, when pushed with the tool they come out. So I think the cyclinder or catch is not working properly, therefore some loctite is in order. In the meantime, I might give the bracelet a ultrasonic treatment to see if it does anything.

Thank you Robbie and Andy, much appreciated.

Thanks Toad and Lani. I've now had the watch in the tupperware with silica gel for 24 hours. The moisture in the crystal is fully gone, but of course what damage has been done to the movement (if any) is anyone's guess. Therefore I've decided to get the watch fully serviced (it would have had to be done anyway).

I'm just now learning how to insert the stem properly on the A7750 and hopefully I didn't screw up on the removal.

By the way, this thing came out of the slevin when I opened the caseback. Does anyone have a clue as to what it is and where it goes? Thanks in advance.