DemonSlayer

Robbie is spot on with his comments on the comfortableness of the DJ's and DD's. I have been a fan of these since I started collecting reps, and always had a DJ in the collection. I've now sold them all and wear a DD on oyster.

I swear, after oiling the bracelet it felt so silky smooth and the bracelet just draped over my wrist. This watch is definitely as comfortable as my MBK Nautilus, it is very easy to forget you are wearing a watch. I had been wearing my newly acquired SSD for a few days prior to this one, and after I took the SSD off and put the DD on, it felt like a huge relief for my wrist! The difference is night and day between the comfortability of these two watches, the DD fits like a glove on my wrist.

After trying on so many dial combos, I believe I have finally found the right combo for me: black dial with arabic markers. A beauty for sure.

Thanks for the input guys. I removed the rotor and took a look at the two gears depicted on EuroTimez post on how to spot clone movements. They have more holes, cementing my thought that it's gen ETA, and the silver gear is brushed not polished.

I agree Andy, the stamping could be better, but I am happy that I got a gen ETA movement, it's pretty rare to find them these days.

Get either the ETA clone or gen ETA IHS version with full ceramic bezel. The GMT hand on this is independantly adjustable, thus it can be used as a GMT watch. However it does not operate like the gen movement or the rep CHS (correct handstack) version. However this version is particularly troublesome, with a high death rate

Here is a wonderful guide by By-Tor on how to use the GMT function on a IHS watch:

Replica "faux" GMT movement FAQ & tutorial

Thanks for your input smc, I'll take another pic later on in the day, its 7:12 AM here and pitch black!

Usually I'm pretty good at telling, but this one seems to have tell-tale signs it's a gen. What do you guys think:

Awesome photo, bro, and awesome watch, it looks great on you Fantastic back-ground as well Frosted door glass?

Nothing new from me, I'm still wearing the X-33 on the SMP strap It's funny, before fitting this strap, this watch just never appealed to me to wear it, as it felt more like a 'collection piece', but, since putting it on the strap, I'm really liking it So much so, that I might even spring for a gen rubber strap with the butterfly deployant in the new year. Maybe... We'll see how things go

Thanks bro Yeah it's frosted door glass It was the only source of OK light I could find downstairs so I thought let me just snap a couple of wristshots

I love that X-33 on that rubber strap man. That's a winning combination there

Welcome to RWG I'm sure you're going to enjoy your stay here, the forum is full of amazing knowledge and great people

I'm going with this beauty today

Heres a pic "borrowed" from Master Chief (hope you don't mind MC) of his GMTIIC with an AR'ed datemag installed. Not sure if it's singe or double coated. To my eyes it doesn't look like it has the same light reflecting properties as the gen.

+1

I put this in another post somewhere (can't find it) but I did a very conservative income breakdown and basically found that even using very, very, very conservative numbers, a dealer would easily break $500K-$1 Million USD a year in pure profit....in China!? Hugeeeeeeeeeee money.

This is HUGE money for them. They can live the life of a multi-millionaire in China, with that kind of money, I'm not kidding.

If I remember correctly, one of my roomates at my halls at University, who is from China, told me that his mother who is a fully qualified accountant, earns about

I have a particular question on CG modding. I want to do this on my SSD in the near future, it's not so much for accuracy purposes, but merely that I like a challenge and don't like chickening out when it comes to modding that is relatively easy to do.

I've been studying the cg's on the SSD, and it seems that the metal that needs to be removed in the part just under the beginning of the CG's, (near the case). However, if metal is removed here, it appears that the CG's wont be straight, unless I remove metal under the 'pointy' areas.

But then when I look at the area under the pointed section, it looks to be very similiar in thickness to the gen, so removing metal here would make them thinner, and so incorrect.

Am I thinking correctly, or have I missed something here?

Couldn't agree more Daytona4me. He's saying it how it is.

About 6 months after I got into reps, a friend of mine who lives in Guangzhou told me in confidence how much these reps really cost. The net profit the dealers are making on these reps is unbelievable.

New dealers who come into the rep game are reluctant to start selling at massively discounted prices because they see how high these reps are selling for, from the likes of the more established dealers.

How many people would say no to making a whole months salary from the sale of 1 rep...

You need to grease the bearings where the rotor attaches. You do this by removing the rotor, and using a pin or a needle, with some silicon grease or other appropriate grease on the tip, and apply it gently to the general area, making sure the ball bearings get a good coating. Then take a tissue or soft cloth and clear the extra grease. Attach the rotor back on, and now it should be very silent.

I've done this on all my reps which had noisy rotors, it worked brilliantly for every one

Yeah, they may have got the dial font color sorted out, but whats the gold plating like..

Been wearing this beauty since I got it, I don't think it will come off for a good couple o' months:

It sounds like the bezel assembly may be dirty from the manufacturing process (They don't always clean them well.). I've used a silicon spray lubricant before when Ive had the same problem. Silicon is a non greasy lubricant that doesn't attract dirt. It also works well to keep the bracelet from rattling.

For the pearl, use a 2 part epoxy. I've used a 5 minute 2 part epoxy before with good results. Just mix up a little (make sure to work any air bubbles out) and dip a toothpick in it to form a little drop on the end of the toothpick. You only need a very small amount. Then touch the drop to the top of the lume in the pearl. The epoxy should run down the lume dot and fill the space between the lume dot and the steel ring. Make sure the pearl sets level until the epoxy sets up.

The first CGs I did were on my SSD. I followed Gio's tutorial pinned at the top of this Rolex section and I think they turned out nice.

Good luck!!

Thanks for the info mate. I think the problem with GS Hypo cement and nail polish is that it cures very fast, within seconds it starts to turn thick and gooey, so as you described with the epoxy, theres no chance of it 'running down the lume dot'. I think I may have to give 2-part epoxy a try. The only thing that concerns me about this is that I have to get it right pretty much on the first attempt as after it cures, theres no chance of removal.

I too have studied many crown guard modding tutorials and read lots of info up on it, I guess I'm just chicken and concerned that I will somehow mess things up and end up with unsightly cg's.

With the silicon spray, shall I just spray on the underside of the bezel, hoping some seeps in?

Thanks for the words of encouragement btw, I will one day get the courage to do the cg mod, I just hope it's sooner rather than later

In another post i recommended every rlx rep buyer disassemble the bezel construction, clean it and reassemble it ... The feel is much better after that.. Why dont you try a new aftermarket insert?

I'm sure the feel is much better after that, but I've heard that it's extremely hard to disassemble the bezel construction on these things. If the insert you are talking of is the WM one, I've read that it's pretty flimsy, and that the standard one that comes with the SSD is much better quality. The only bad thing about them is pearls, mine came with the infamous 'zit' one, that's why I'm practicing with the epoxy pearl mod to make it look much better.

Well I just got a SSD in, this watch is the ultimate tool watch IMO. I read that one of the nice things about this watch was the very smooth turning and clicking of the bezel. But on mine, I have to wear rubber gloves to grip the bezel to turn something ain't right

What could be the cause?

I must say, I am tempted to do some mods on this watch, but I'm scared I'll mess things up. I've now spent about 3 hours trying to do the 'epoxy pearl' mod, trying a range of fillers including GS Hypo cement, and nail varnish. I applied, and cleaned up so many times I've lost count, and managed to get a hairline scratch on the insert from the slip of a needle! (Oh well, it adds character to the watch )

I just never manage to get that domed pearl look without creating a messy finish.

I wouldn't attempt a CG mod on this one, not before I try it on a cheapie rep, neither the insert recess mod, but I must say, it looks magnifecent on the wrist as it is

Classic watch bro, looks weird not seeing a PAM on your wrist now

I'm going with this one today:

Welcome aboard mate. I can only echo what the other UK members have been saying. Glad to see another UK watchmaker who is willing to work on reps.

Robbie I have to agree with you. I would much rather have that DD II in the standard 36mm size. In fact I have a very similar one on order.

Recently I've been wearing nothing but my MBK Nautilus and Datejust, and I have to say, those are two beautifully designed watches. The DD and DJ are pure classics IMO, Rolex nailed it with those two in terms of a sports/dress watch. I still prefer the Nautilus, but I also love DDs and DJs. I'm also fortunate in that I have small wrists, so the DJ looks perfect for my wrist size.