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Does anyone have a 1570 flat top 3's datewheel I could purchase/borrow? I just purchased a 1570 movement, but am a bit discouraged due to the lack of decent aftermarket options at the moment. WSO aka Mr. Slimeball is the only person I see selling them... If I could borrow someone's datewheel (or maybe someone could send me a scanned file of theirs) I would throw it into illustrator, create a vector file, and get some manufactured in silver

Hi guys, Excuse me if my question sound a bit noobish, Does the ETA date disc of a 7750 is the same (size,and fitting) as the 7753 ? I'm asking this becuase i'm looking for a date disc for ETA7753 and can see only for 7750 movments. Thanks, Dvir

Sometimes (like when you re-set the keyless works), removing the ETA 2836/2824 datewheel (DW) is a necessary evil. The easiest way to do this is to depress the double jumper spring, and shift the DW slightly crown-side (to free it from the minute train bridge, which covers the keyless works) while lifting it off. The problem of course, is that most rep datewheels are overlayed. And the overlay hides the double jumper spring from view. Needlessly removing a datewheel overlay is a PITA, because getting it straightened out again is time consuming. The other accepted method to free the DW is to unscrew the date jumper maintaining plate and/or minute train bridge by just enough. Too much unscrewing, and a little bad luck can sometimes push a part or two out of place--a real headache. What to do? Funny you should ask: I happen to have an A2836 sitting on my workbench... One solution is to remove the DW blind. You can do this by inserting a very thin object under the DW in the direction of the double jumper spring. Then you just lift everything off like normal. Yes, I'm cheating because I'm looking. But this is the best way to demonstrate the technique. Our target: between the 5 and the 6. I used a blue oiler. In this picture, the double jumper spring is pushing against the gap between the teeth of the DW (see dates 7 and 8 ) : Pull the crown into the quick-set position. Turn it so the teeth just appear between the grooves in the date jumper maintaining plate: In the picture above, look at the teeth near 7, 9, and 10. If you could somehow lift the DW vertically, those teeth would pass easily through the spaces in the plate. The problems with doing this are that (1) the spring is above the tooth near 8. Also, the teeth on the other side of the DW are beneath the minute train bridge. Forcing things here is inadvisable. You need to push that spring in. Spring is depressed: Lifting up while pushing slightly crown-side: Done: Now, this is tougher when the DWO is actually on. Probably the most difficult part is determining when the DW teeth are in the right grooves for lifting. If you pull up prematurely, the DW isn't going anywhere. Turn the crown until the date almost clicks over-- you can tell by the increasing resistance as you turn the crown. You get the hang of it, eventually. Give it a shot!

OK. You got into the movement and did what you had to do. Because you removed your ETA date wheel without disturbing its overlay, it's going to be hard to put it back. Why? The overlay covers the double jumper spring. You can't see it when the overlay is on, and you need to depress the spring. The traditional way of getting the date wheel (DW) back on is to either (1) remove the overlay, fit the DW, and then realign the overlay, or (2) [partially] unscrew the double jumper maintaining plate and/or the minute train bridge. Say you don't want to do those. It is possible to get the DW back on by reversing the steps in this tutorial, but it's a little uncomfortable because you don't have the benefit of being able to see what you're doing. Here's how to do it... (Please forgive the fact the two-hands-constraint means I have to substitute words for the missing photos). Pull the crown into quick-set position. ***What you need (a fine tipped object like an oiler, a movement, a date wheel, an overlay, and something to hold the DW/DWO--like plastic tweezers)*** The date wheel, plus one ratty old overlay Double jumper spring, depressed (It's a good idea to turn the oiler vertical here) With the plastic tweezers, set the overlayed DW down on the movement, offset a bit to the crown-side. Slide the DW over so its teeth are under the raised edge of the minute train bridge. Notice that the overlay hides the double jumper spring from view. Here, the DW is resting at an angle, tilted up at 9 o'clock, as its teeth on that side do not fit through the grooves in the double jumper maintaining plate. Now, gently nudge the DW with your plastic tweezers on the crown-side. Turn it clockwise very slowly with your tweezers. At the same time, depress the double jumper spring with your fine-tipped edge. When things line up right, the DW will just drop into place. You may have to check a few times that you're pushing in the right place with your oiler. And turning the DW by nudging it is a little unnatural at first. When things seem like they're in the right spot, remove you oiler. Press down (gently) on the DW with your plastic tweezers near the double jumper plate. If nothing pops out, advance the date with the crown. You'll know right away if things worked Eureka! Total time: about 5 minutes. Plus, no messy DWO realignment to worry about. Warning: it may take several goes--my first attempt tonight failed, but I got it on the second try. Good luck!