highoeyazmuhudee Posted September 10, 2009 Report Share Posted September 10, 2009 What would cause a 2836 movement to stop hacking when the crown is pulled out to the time setting pos? last thing i did to this movement before this happened was reset the keyless works and that works perfectly now. any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWG Technical Posted September 10, 2009 Report Share Posted September 10, 2009 Best guess: The hacking lever has come out of it's slot in the clutch wheel. Since it's very thin and small and made of brass, the odds are that it's now crushed and will need to be replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted September 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2009 Thanks yet again The Zigmeister, always there to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugwash Posted September 12, 2009 Report Share Posted September 12, 2009 The hacking lever has come out of it's slot in the clutch wheel. Since it's very thin and small and made of brass, the odds are that it's now crushed and will need to be replaced. Is it like the one on the 2892? I've never stripped a 2824/36 that deep, so it'd be a good perspective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWG Technical Posted September 12, 2009 Report Share Posted September 12, 2009 They are similar in design and function, but not interchangeable. 2892 hacking lever is under the autowinder bridge, 2836 lever is under the winding bridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted September 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2009 are there any tutorials around that show you how to get to the hack lever in a systematic order so I can inspect it? I only found one for a 2892 which I believe is different, and my local watch maker in the shopping centre is asking $300 for the repair and a servicing (and that doesnt include taxes). YIKES Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWG Technical Posted September 13, 2009 Report Share Posted September 13, 2009 Download and print the ETA datasheets from the ETA website for the 2836 (if you haven't already), they show clearly how to get at the hacking lever under the winding bridge. Rotor comes off, then the autowinder, then the mainspring gear, then the mainspring plate. Parts from different calibers are not interchangeable you are going to have to find a 2836 lever. $300 - that is about twice as expensive as it should be for a full service on an automatic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted September 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2009 I disassembled the movement to either replace or reset the hack lever, luckily it wasnt crushed and seemed to be in its place. But now Im trying to understand the interplay between the two parts circled as im not sure how they go back together. The parts in the exploded view on the oil chart look different than the "same" parts in the directory of parts on the oil chart (which mine look like) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted September 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2009 n/m i figured out the puzzle. : ) HOWEVER- somehow/somewhere I lost the jewel bearing that the escapement wheel pivots on, so it's GAME OVER anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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