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Changing endlinks on a riveted bracelet: Can it be done?


lhooq

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I recently purchased a 7205 expander in anticipation of a future early- or pre-Daytona project. It's in fairly good condition, considering the "3 60" stamp on the clasp. The links are tight and springy, while dings and scratches are few. Other than some bending around the upper links and a couple of askew endplates, the alignment is straight. So far so good? The right photo shows the problem clearly:

788859157_JPZpP-X3.jpg788859167_cRr7D-X3.jpg

That's a lot of daylight coming through the lugs! Sometime in the bracelet's fifty years, the endlinks were trimmed to fit 18mm lugs. (WHY?!) You can see the damage from behind. Note the truncated '57s':

788859172_o8jom-X3.jpg

I would like to toss the cut endlinks, but I'm not sure how to do it or where to source replacements. There are a couple of riveted 19mm reps on eBay (one for $10 and a $50 bracelet from the beloved WholesaleOutlet), but I don't know if they're constructed like the genuine item. I was set to order the cheaper one, until I noticed the endlinks are attached to the bracelet with springbars, not pins.

Any ideas? I don't want to give up on an otherwise good bracelet, but this one might have to go into the spare parts drawer.

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The easiest way is to replace the last link, which the end links are permanently connected to. You can occasionally find these parts on ebay.

Your best bet is to have an RSC handle the work since they are the only people I know of who still have access to the proper tool for this.

However, if you want to do it yourself, you have to unfold the 2nd link (if you do not mind mangling the links up a bit, it can be done with a pair of small, sturdy screwdrivers), remove the existing last links (with the damaged end links attached) & then refold-in the new set of last links (with the new end links attached).

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Because they are permanently attached at the factory, I doubt Yuki (or any other seller) will be able to sell you the separate parts. Why not just ask Yuki if they have (or can source) an aftermarket 7205? As I found out with their 7206, it might already be available & as long as it fits the correct springbars, it might be the best way to go.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update, and a couple of notes about endlink fit at the end:

I handed my 7205 over to my watchmaker last week to see if there was anything he could do about the endlinks. Faster than expected, he was able to produce a rather good mutt by swapping the mangled 57s with a 60 and a 357. All other links are intact, so the bracelet is still an expander all around. Incorrect for a 6263, but still handsome. Maybe if I had those funky early pushers, I could turn it into a 6240? Best keep it for a 6238 or 6239, I think!

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I've often read that the 357 is the best alternative to an x71 (mostly in Freddy's posts!), and it's easy to see why. It fits pretty snugly against the case and its profile nearly matches the curve of the lugs. However, there is a gap between endlink and case, and it's particularly noticeable at the endlink's middle. This could be an issue if the wide, Daytona bezel isn't there to hide it.

799850479_rsZoc-X3.jpg

The 60, on the other hand, hugs the case closely--sometimes. Off the wrist it pivots on the springbar and moves about half a millimeter against the case. It's also about 2/3 the thickness of the 6263's lugs.

799850454_4g9LD-X3.jpg

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