Watchmeister Posted May 25, 2010 Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 I have been assembling parts to build a 1680 franken. So far I have been able to pick up the parts to date very inexpensively. Before I plunk down real money to buy a movement I wanted to get folk's thought on the dial. It was cheaper than an NDT which makes me suspicious but I do love the way it looks. Here are the overall project parts to date: And here is the dial - One last question - if the case set is a Yuki should I plan on doing case work or cg's or leave it alone? Thanks in advance for any opinions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted May 25, 2010 Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 Nice genuine dial, W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elepaolo Posted May 25, 2010 Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 I'd assume is a gen too. The bevel on the date window, the crispness in the writings, the shape of the crown, all make me think of a gen. But if it si not, please tell me who's selling this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HauteHippie Posted May 25, 2010 Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 Gen dial. I had one a lot like it. Yuki case is not ideal for gen movement. CGs will need work too. A better case might be in order for a project of this caliber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watchmeister Posted May 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 Gen dial. I had one a lot like it. Yuki case is not ideal for gen movement. CGs will need work too. A better case might be in order for a project of this caliber. What is the better case than the Yuki for the gen movement? The truth is I have picked up all the parts on the cheap so far and would like to keep it that way. The dial, case set and crystal cost me well under $600. The movement is going to cost $1,000. I still need to get hands and will likely use an aftermarket bracelet. I want to be into this one for less than $2k. So I would rather fix the Yuki than go out $600+ for something else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce79 Posted May 25, 2010 Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 The text looks good. The 5 minute hash marks look a little fat and short...and the hash at 6 is missing. But there may be different versions of the 1680 white dial. Good looking dial though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted May 25, 2010 Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 The chapters generally get rubbed away when installing into the case. Since the movement fits into the case by rotating into place and securing with lock screws, the dial tends to sustain a slight bit of damage in the process (unless one were to take extra caution not to press the dial firmly against the rehaut when fitting, or if they used the half-headed/slot screws)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted May 25, 2010 Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 Another example of dial rubbing on the rehaut: Luckily, once installed, it's not really an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted May 25, 2010 Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 This is also a good picture to demonstrate the problem with the colored lume on most reps/frankens. Natural aging causes uneven, blotchy color with some areas becoming darker than others. Lume that is solid brown, tan or yellow rarely (to the point where I have never seen it happen) occurs naturally. For this reason, if given the choice, I think it is best to opt for off-white (non-glowing) lume on vintage watches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted May 25, 2010 Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 Rather interesting, the characteristics that tritium takes on as it ages. Makes each example unique in it's own right. I agree that off-white/ivory is best for the aesthetics... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HauteHippie Posted May 25, 2010 Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 What is the better case than the Yuki for the gen movement? The truth is I have picked up all the parts on the cheap so far and would like to keep it that way. The dial, case set and crystal cost me well under $600. The movement is going to cost $1,000. I still need to get hands and will likely use an aftermarket bracelet. I want to be into this one for less than $2k. So I would rather fix the Yuki than go out $600+ for something else. Ah, then stick with the Yuki. Our friend up north can make it work. For < $2k with gen movement, you'll be getting one hell of a franken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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