Gen Bezel install on SA v3 case

[RealReplica]

This was originally compiled and posted over on RG (my regular home) but I thought I would share with our friends and Breitling aficionados of RWG.

The threads I refer to on the how to can be found on the breilting area in RG.

Hope it helps at least 1 of you!

First off I got a V3 case (which people report to be the same as the V1 SA case as its the same factory however I'm not able to confirm this as I've never owned a V1 SA). I then sourced a genuine bezel from DC and requested the compression ring to be included (I didn't know I needed a ratchet ring at this stage).

Here they are

Since I didn't know I needed a ratchet ring I was having some problems to get the bezel to click (it would never do it without a ratchet ring), this was when I created a thread here to request help from other members (thanks to all that contributed and showed support, I really appreciate it). From that thread I learned that this was really hard to source a genuine one and without it I wouldn't get the bezel to be unidirectional and to click while turning.

Since I had the old V2 case I set off to take the bezel out of it, this is a really hard job, its not easy at all to remove the V2 bezel without either cutting it or damaging the case. The bezel is pressure fitted and its under a great deal of pressure really so not easy.

DISCLAIMER:

If you're thinking on installing a gen bezel on a SA V2 case I would recommend you think again because not only the rep bezel is almost impossible to take out the gen bezel will have a diameter almost 1mm larger than the V2 case, so even if you manage to fit it I would say you'll have a pretty large space between the case and the bezel and it won't look that good. So if you want a gen bezel V3 is the only real option imo.

Back to getting the ratchet ring... I've managed to get the bezel of the V2 out and retrieve the ratchet ring. This ring however and since the V2 case is smaller on this area than the V3 was about 1mm too small.

Here you can see the 2 rings you'll need to make the bezel fully functional. Please note that this image is not of a SA but they look pretty much the same, also note that the what I call compression ring its labeled here as retaining clip.

I've used a dremel tool to grind a bit off the inside of the ratchet ring so that this would fit the V3 case. Here it requires a bit of trial and error so that you don't sand it too much.

Once the ring fits the V3 case just put it in place and place the bezel on top without the compression ring or anything and you'll see that it clicks and it will only move in one direction. This ensures that the ratchet ring is seated properly in the case and engaging the bezel indentations properly.

The next picture shows the bezel interior part, you have a small recessed area where you should insert the compression ring this is also in level with the screw holes and the screws should push the ring against the case to that it remains in place and doesn't come loose.

Always try to install the compression ring and place the bezel on the case, fasten all the screws tight and see if the bezel is secured to the case, try rotating it normally and pulling it with your fingers a bit to see if its secure, in my case it wasn't. The case measures 40.44mm at the widest point and the bezel measures 40.60mm at the tightest spot. This 0.16mm difference was enough to allow the bezel to come loose without much effort and enough for the screws not to push the ring against the case enough that this would secure the bezel in place.

I don't know if your distances will be the same and if the cases are constructed the same way, assume these are made without any QC by people without any knowledge and work from there. I would recommend you to take your own measures, check and double check if the bezel can be fitted properly with only these steps.

If your bezel is secure like that, you're a lucky man/woman, if not, read on...

So if you got here you realized that the 0.16mm difference in diameters from the case to the bezel was enough to prevent it from staying in place during operation.

The best solution you can have is source 8 round head screws that are 0.18mm longer than the ones that come fitted and just replace the screws, however that may prove a daunting task. I'm sure it won't be easy to find screws like that with the same thread size and exactly the size needed since the difference is so small. I hope I can be proved wrong here though.

Well since I couldn't find the screws, I started thinking on how I could extend the screws allowing the bezel to keep its functionality. Among other methods tried I got a few types of paper clips (even some yard wire tbh) to find ones that would fit the hole, would sit in place but wouldn't be too loose on the hole, I then proceeded to cut some tiny bits of the paper clip and then with a dremel I sanded down the "rough" side of the small extender. With the screws a good bit out but not fully removed from the bezel I've introduced the extender bits on the screw holes from the inside, they were loose enough to be pushed when I fastened the screws but not too loose that they would fall off the bezel. Once all of them were done, I've placed the compression ring on top of them and placed the bezel on the case. Then it was just a matter of fastening the screws in place and Voila.

Here you have the paper clip bits, notice the smallest one, that was the size of the little "extenders" I used on the bezel.

And now the end result.

DISCLAIMER 2:

Use the information on this how to at your own risk.

There are considerable risks of damaging your watch if you remove your original bezel or other case parts.

I cannot be held responsible for any damages that may arise from you using this information on your own watch.

Some extra info:

I would like also to share with you that while doing this I've found out that the V3 case quality isn't great. For instance the crystal is relatively easy to pop out of the case (good thing if you plan on sending it to chief but not that good on any other situation). Also wouldn't think this case to be waterproof. I wouldn't recommend you use your V3 SA to swim and I would recommend that you take some care with water, don't submerge your watch. The V3 has a brilliant AR however the hue is greenish and not gen like, the much noticeable blue AR of the V2 is closer to gen but is much more noticeable. With the dial mounted behind the case and in almost all lighting the hue of the V3 AR is almost invisible and it isn't annoying at all (imo).

However this case has its advantages, being almost 1mm larger than the V2 case makes the gen bezel much easier to install and it will surely look better on the V3 case than on the V2 too. So if you're planning on installing a Gen bezel I would definitely recommend the V3 case however if quality of construction is more important than the appearance of your watch buy the V2 instead.

Any questions I'll be happy to answer.

Thanks to everyone who helped and showed support, your insight and support is greatly appreciated.

I'll take the deserved better pics sometime tomorrow if the weather is good

[cougaree]

Thanks for sharing your insight! It's a nice read!

I've never had a SA before, but I'm a huge fan of BCE. Mechanically, based your description, SA is same as BCE on the bezel. As you mentioned that v2 is a pain to take the bezel off, I wonder if v2 SA is made by the same factory that makes BCE v1/v4 because on BCE v1/v4 it's hard to take the rep bezel off also.

I hear you about the bezel spring (or clip) and ratchet ring. You are 100% right. If you can have gen spring and ratchet ring, you are set! The magic on the gen ring is that 4 parts of the ring actually bent downward (approximately 0.5mm) opposite to the tabs that make the bezel click. This increases the height of the ring, which essentially make the bezel clicks more "solidly".

[gtanak]

I've found tons of parts and dials for the SA but strangely.. none for the skyland or the SOH.. A gen dial for the skyland would be Sweet!

[cougaree]

I've found tons of parts and dials for the SA but strangely.. none for the skyland or the SOH.. A gen dial for the skyland would be Sweet!

Maybe it's too new? I found the rep skyland dial on my v3 is pretty good, especially after Zigmeister's touch on the lume dots.

[HauteHippie]

A couple questions...

1. Do these paper clip bits stay in place when rotating the bezel? I guess I'm not picture how they could because the end of the screw would have to protrude through the hole on the inside if you want the screw heads flush with the edge of the bezel on the outside, and then I don't see what would be "fixturing" these paper clip bits in place.

2. You said the V3 is 1mm larger than the V2?? In which dimension is there a 1mm discrepancy? Outer case width?

[andreww]

Thought the same thing Chief. Seems to me that it would be better to cut the original mounting screws back a little bit, so that when they are fully tightened, they never protrude from the other side. Then simply cut the extenders a little longer. This way there would be no chance of the extenders coming loose in the case. Probably easier to fabricate as well.

[OSRep]

Hey RR! Congratulations on a successful bezel swap! If these were easy to change on the SA's then there would be some great ones around, so youre is very special. Thank you for sharing

[RealReplica]

A couple questions...

1. Do these paper clip bits stay in place when rotating the bezel? I guess I'm not picture how they could because the end of the screw would have to protrude through the hole on the inside if you want the screw heads flush with the edge of the bezel on the outside, and then I don't see what would be "fixturing" these paper clip bits in place.

2. You said the V3 is 1mm larger than the V2?? In which dimension is there a 1mm discrepancy? Outer case width?

1. So far so good these bits are under pressure against the spring and the bezel screw holes and I've rotated the bezel a few times and it stayed in place without problems. I know this is a temporary solution as I want to try to get new screws for the bezel to replace the old ones or the gen ratchet ring but while I don't have either this seems to be working fine. Even if they get displaced I think that you can use a bit of welding to keep them in place. The screws are flush against the case (they have round heads so never really flush).

2. The V3 is approx 1mm larger that the V2 at the base of the case where the ratchet ring fits. The dimensions for these areas are:

V2: 39.16 mm at the bottom of the case without bezel. (where the ratchet ring sets)

V3: 40.44 mm at the bottom of the case without bezel. (where the ratchet ring sets)

Diameter of the V2 recessed part on the case: 38.95mm (Where the retention clip engages)

Diameter of the V3 recessed part on the case: 39.55mm (Where the retention clip engages)

So the difference is slightly over 1mm on the cases however the gen bezel's interior diameter is 40.60mm at the widest (base of the bezel). The V2 bezel diameter at the same point is 39.40 mm.

[HauteHippie]

Wow so I guess this thing is further from 1:1 than I thought.

Great post, BTW. Meant to say that in the first response!

[krpster]

Excellent information. Thank you for sharing the elusive secrets of the SA bezel swap

I know this is a temporary solution as I want to try to get new screws for the bezel to replace the old ones or the gen ratchet ring...

My only question is what impact the gen ratchet ring would have on the need for the screw extensions. Isn't the need of extension related to the size of the compression ring (aka retaining clip)? Just trying to understand the root of the problem to try and think of possible solutions.

[RealReplica]

Excellent information. Thank you for sharing the elusive secrets of the SA bezel swap

My only question is what impact the gen ratchet ring would have on the need for the screw extensions. Isn't the need of extension related to the size of the compression ring (aka retaining clip)? Just trying to understand the root of the problem to try and think of possible solutions.

I don't know the effect that it will have, if any, but I want to try and source one to see anyways, then try to get some larger screws if that has no effect whatsoever.

[cougaree]

I wonder if you can rebuilt the case so it takes gen bezel better. I've never done this, but what do you think about using FastSteel which is widely available in your home improvement stores. The stuff takes 4-6 minutes to harden 60 minutes to cure. I wonder if you are real fast, mix up that stuff, and then roll it into a small cylindrical shape and have it wrap around the case and shape it the way you want before it cures...

[RealReplica]

I wonder if you can rebuilt the case so it takes gen bezel better. I've never done this, but what do you think about using FastSteel which is widely available in your home improvement stores. The stuff takes 4-6 minutes to harden 60 minutes to cure. I wonder if you are real fast, mix up that stuff, and then roll it into a small cylindrical shape and have it wrap around the case and shape it the way you want before it cures...

I'm not sure if that will work to be honest. The problem here is making it so thin that is 0.14 of a millimeter. Does it have the same drying time if its cut really really thin or it will harden faster?

[cougaree]

I'm thinking you just make it thin enough, then sand it down after it cures. My other idea is buying 28 gauge steel wire (which is widely available in the picture framing stores, it's 0.1mm in diameter) and somehow glue/solder it around the case.

[watchandy]

Hi, I have two SA's both from Josh one is a 2009 stencil dial the other is the previous model purchased in November 09. I was interested in how you can tell the difference between V1 V2 and V3? I have taken the bezels off both watches and have found the case design/contruction very different, on the stencil dial model the bezel comes off with the glass. I've had no problems fitting the rep pro2 bracelet to newer watch...maybe i was just lucky.

[cougaree]

I think I've found the perfect solution for fitting the gen bezel to the v3 case. Previously, RealReplica mentioned that he had to use paper clip extenders to make his bezel screws longer to lock the bezel in place. I had similar issue with one of my BCE cases. My gen bezel locked to the case just fine, but it had about 0.1mm gap between the bezel and case under normal condition from the bezel ratchet pushing up. The gap could be closed by me pressing down a little and it would stay down as long as I had my fingers on it. Anyway, I happened to think about it on my way to grocery store yesterday. I thought my problem was the retaining clip (or bezel spring) on the gen bezel not clipping into the groove on the case, which also happened to be RealReplica's problem. Except on his watch, the bezel didn't lock down to the case.

So, I went home. Took out the BCE v2's original rep bezel retaining clip. The wire was measured to be 0.1mm in diameter. I straightened the wire with my leatherman tool, and slightly bented a bit and fit it into my gen bezel. Then I put the gen retaining clip on top of it and made sure the fitting of the two wires... fit it to the case and done! No more play on the bezel! I think this method works the best with SA because it needs 0.18mm, and with my BCE v2 rep retaining clip, I can gain 2.0mm. If the bezel is too tight, the rep retaining clip can always be thin down a bit with help of the sand paper.

Please note that, BCE v2 + corrected dw has thicker retaining clip (more gen like), so it may not work for you unless you really sand it down a lot.

[joeyz400]

Do the screws on the V3 work or are they just for show? How do you remove the bezel? Where can you get the Gen rachet and retaining clips?

Thanks guys