Is this Submariner good

[TeeJay]

Great answer man, thanks!

But two question remain:

1. does Rolex have any visible serial numbers? How does replicas "handle" this?

I believe that the modern Rolex watches with ROLEXROLEXROLEX engraved round the dial have a serial number at the 6 o clock position. How does replica handle this? They all have the same serial number. The chances of a casual observer actually knowing a Rolex serial number is probably less than being struck by lightning

2. Some guy wrote that he would prefer a vintage replica because of that the wear would make it look more genuine. So the question is can you buy a vintage replica somewhere?

Yes, many dealers sell replicas of the vintage watches. But. They do not look old, ie covered in scuffs and scratches. The details are mostly correct, but the watch looks as new as the original would have looked when first purchased in the 60s/70s, rather than looking like something purchased in the 60s/70s and then worn daily till the present day. Of course, it is possible to artificially age a watch using various methods such as staining or cooking the dial and hands, and scuffing up the case and bracelet with a scouring pad to achieve an aged look For me, it's not so much a case of preferring the vintage to make it look more like the genuine watch, just to make the watch draw less attention than a shiny new one

[ArkoN]

Great answer man, thanks!

But two question remain:

1. does Rolex have any visible serial numbers? How does replicas "handle" this?

2. Some guy wrote that he would prefer a vintage replica because of that the wear would make it look more genuine. So the question is can you buy a vintage replica somewhere?

2. If youre a noob, dont go with vintage replicas. You can buy some, but they have some major flaws. A high beat movement for example. With a high beat movement the seconds move smoother then with a low beat. And that is a big giveaway. If u want go into modificate youre watch, then u can start a vintage project. But if u just want to buy a watch that looks like the real one without mods, I would say stay away from vintages.

If any other expert has to add something, just do it. I`m just capable to help some beginners, not really an expert :-)

[TeeJay]

2. If youre a noob, dont go with vintage replicas. You can buy some, but they have some major flaws. A high beat movement for example. With a high beat movement the seconds move smoother then with a low beat. And that is a big giveaway. If u want go into modificate youre watch, then u can start a vintage project. But if u just want to buy a watch that looks like the real one without mods, I would say stay away from vintages.

If any other expert has to add something, just do it. I`m just capable to help some beginners, not really an expert :-)

+1

No replica vintage model available from a dealer will look real upon arrival (ie looking 20+ years old) they will all require modification work to artificially age the watch which will involve taking the watch to pieces. Of course, more modern watches, like the DateJust, 16610 Submariner, etc, would all be fine upon arrival, and only require a little scouring to take away that pristine newness and make the watch appear a bit worn, rather than 'out of the shop brand new'. Seeing such a brand new Rolex, will be more likely to get noticed than something older, which 'flys under the radar'

[maxman]

Hi guys,

Im Very new to this hobby, and Im allso a noob in all aspects:(

Im allso looking for a very nice sea dweller and if you look at joshs sight you can see 6-7 similar sea dwellers with different movemnets...

Asian or ETA! From 128$ - 388$ Im confused... What to pick since someone said that there is NOT a big difference in appearence.

If the 388$ one is much better, then I would probably go with that one but what to think about these things? How to decide?

Is the ETA normally more accurate, more likely to live a longer life so to speak or what?

If It were me I would go with The $388.00 model. I have the model that came out before that and the pearl Is not good,as you can easily see by the pictures. The better model has a good pearl possition and you can get It with the Swiss ete 2836. These newer versions also have the newer DSSD ceramic bezel thats done very well. IMO the better model Is just that,better. If your looking for something desent and want to save some money go for one of the cheeper models,there stll pretty good. But If you are "looking for a very nice SD" I would go with the $388,00 version. These come up for sale quite offten here,maybe you should keep your eye one the sales section and save some money,good luck.

[miwan]

If It were me I would go with The $388.00 model. I have the model that came out before that and the pearl Is not good,as you can easily see by the pictures. The better model has a good pearl possition and you can get It with the Swiss ete 2836. These newer versions also have the newer DSSD ceramic bezel thats done very well. IMO the better model Is just that,better. If your looking for something desent and want to save some money go for one of the cheeper models,there stll pretty good. But If you are "looking for a very nice SD" I would go with the $388,00 version. These come up for sale quite offten here,maybe you should keep your eye one the sales section and save some money,good luck.

Thank you!

[Utheman]

Hi!

Im a big n00b on replicas as I only own a genuine Omega. But I've been looking in to replicas as they seem to be good enough for me and SO much cheaper. So: I want to buy a replica submariner. But as I said I've no clue on how to know whats good and whats not when it comes to replicas. I dont even know any sites or ebay sellers... So I will rely on you guys!

From what I can see this $128 watch i fine but not great. Im willing to pay $200-300 in order to get a Submariner that no one could spot as a fake if they werent a watchmaker or something like that... Or am I asking for too much? In that case, I just want a damn good rep for that kind of money, with saphire crystal and a decent movement. Where can i find that ? Please help me, every answer is appriciated!!

Here's an example in the sales forum of a really nice Sub from a well respected dealer here and offered by an established member. Well worth the price.

http://www.rwgforum....post__p__919206

[maxman]

Here's an example in the sales forum of a really nice Sub from a well respected dealer here and offered by an established member. Well worth the price.

http://www.rwgforum....post__p__919206

Indeed that Is very nice. @miwan,you are welcome

[miwan]

Hi

That one is very nice´! Thanks.

A question in general, Is it hard to get service and repairs done to repwatches or will you often be turned down by local "watchmakers" sorry dont know the correct term for them in english but I guess you know what i mean..

[TeeJay]

Hi

That one is very nice´! Thanks.

A question in general, Is it hard to get service and repairs done to repwatches or will you often be turned down by local "watchmakers" sorry dont know the correct term for them in english but I guess you know what i mean..

It's something which varies from place to place, some watchsmiths are happy to work on reps, others won't touch them, the only way to find out, is to go in and ask them

[calatrava]

Does anyone have any thoughts about this Noobfactory Submariner (non-ceramic bezel) with an asian 2836 movement for $93?

http://www.timesshop.net/product.php?id_product=6416

It seems like a fantastic deal, and I was wondering what would be next level of replica above something like this, and what the critical differences would be. For me, the asian 21j movement on other entry level Submariner replicas is a dealbreaker, due to the 6 bps vs 8 bps sweep.

[TeeJay]

Does anyone have any thoughts about this Noobfactory Submariner (non-ceramic bezel) with an asian 2836 movement for $93?

http://www.timesshop.net/product.php?id_product=6416

It seems like a fantastic deal, and I was wondering what would be next level of replica above something like this, and what the critical differences would be. For me, the asian 21j movement on other entry level Submariner replicas is a dealbreaker, due to the 6 bps vs 8 bps sweep.

I may be wrong, but I believe others have mentioned issues with the asian copy movement (I might be thinking of a different movement though...), hopefully others can chime in here

[calatrava]

I may be wrong, but I believe others have mentioned issues with the asian copy movement (I might be thinking of a different movement though...), hopefully others can chime in here

Perhaps you were thinking of the 2836 movements decorated to look like Rolex movements, which are referred to as Rolex clone movements by the replica makers.

[TeeJay]

Perhaps you were thinking of the 2836 movements decorated to look like Rolex movements, which are referred to as Rolex clone movements by the replica makers.

Yes, that's the ones I was thinking of Definitely worth avoiding, from what folks've said.

[miwan]

Hi

Just wanna make sure I got it right, I was rekommended in an earlier post the swiss eta 2836 for the SD. So thats ok but not the 2836 that you mention now? The one that is decorated to look like a rolex...

Are there different ones that are called 2836? It aint easy being a noob....

[calatrava]

You can get the 2836 movement in either the original Swiss ETA, or an asian clone movement (probably a Seagull ST21 movement). The movement which is of concern is the Rolex 3135 asian clone, which is a modified 2836 movement, made to look like a Rolex 3135 movement. Unfortunately, the modifications appear to be poorly done, which compromises the reliability of the 2836 movement.

As for the choice between the Swiss and Asian clone versions of the 2836, one of the concerns is that ETA (which is owned by Swatch) has severely curtailed the supply of movements, and as a consequence there is a shift to Swiss movements made by Stellita (for example the SW200). This is why BK on his sales forum mentions that the noobfactory Swiss movements will likely be Stellitas instead of ETAs.

There seems to be several issues with regards to the movement choices:

1. Asian 21J

2. Asian 2836 clone

3. Swiss ETA 2836

4. Asian Rolex 3135 clone

1. If properly oiled (potential QC issue), and cleaned, these movements appear to be very robust, and the main issue is that they are 21600 beat movements, which means that they tick 6 times a second, as opposed 8 times a second on the 2836 movements, and hence tend to have a more jerky second hand sweep.

2. Between the asian and Swiss 2836s, I would certainly prefer a factory fresh ETA 2836, primarily because of the improved QC. The main issue, as I alluded to above is that the Swiss ETA movements available currently may be unsold movements that have been lying around for some time, or recycled movements. Stellita movements appear to have had some issues initially, but these appear to have been worked out, but their long term reliability is still to be determined.

3. The Seagull ST21 movement (asian 2824/2836 clone) is equally reliable (compared to a Swiss ETA) if properly oiled and cleaned (see discussions on watchuseek.com for comparisons), but again the issue is that the QC is a bit more uneven. If you're thinking of having your watch serviced by a professional watchmaker before extensive use, then an asian 2836 seems like a wonderful choice. Alternatively, you could just run the movement to the ground, and replace it with a properly sourced Swiss movement at a later date, since it has the same sized holes on the watch hands, and is therefore a plug in replacement.

4. The asian Rolex 3135 movement should be avoided because of the reliability issues. If someone is going to the extent of removing the caseback on your replica, then the gig is up anyway, clone Rolex movement or otherwise.

Edited December 27, 2010 by calatrava

[miwan]

You can get the 2836 movement in either the original Swiss ETA, or an asian clone movement (probably a Seagull ST21 movement). The movement which is of concern is the Rolex 3135 asian clone, which is a modified 2836 movement, made to look like a Rolex 3135 movement. Unfortunately, the modifications appear to be poorly done, which compromises the reliability of the 2836 movement.

As for the choice between the Swiss and Asian clone versions of the 2836, one of the concerns is that ETA (which is owned by Swatch) has severely curtailed the supply of movements, and as a consequence there is a shift to Swiss movements made by Stellita (for example the SW200). This is why BK on his sales forum mentions that the noobfactory Swiss movements will likely be Stellitas instead of ETAs.

There seems to be several issues with regards to the movement choices:

1. Asian 21J

2. Asian 2836 clone

3. Swiss ETA 2836

4. Asian Rolex 3135 clone

1. If properly oiled (potential QC issue), and cleaned, these movements appear to be very robust, and the main issue is that they are 21600 beat movements, which means that they tick 6 times a second, as opposed 8 times a second on the 2836 movements, and hence tend to have a more jerky second hand sweep.

2. Between the asian and Swiss 2836s, I would certainly prefer a factory fresh ETA 2836, primarily because of the improved QC. The main issue, as I alluded to above is that the Swiss ETA movements available currently may be unsold movements that have been lying around for some time, or recycled movements. Stellita movements appear to have had some issues initially, but these appear to have been worked out, but their long term reliability is still to be determined.

3. The Seagull ST21 movement (asian 2824/2836 clone) is equally reliable (compared to a Swiss ETA) if properly oiled and cleaned (see discussions on watchuseek.com for comparisons), but again the issue is that the QC is a bit more uneven. If you're thinking of having your watch serviced by a professional watchmaker before extensive use, then an asian 2836 seems like a wonderful choice. Alternatively, you could just run the movement to the ground, and replace it with a properly sourced Swiss movement at a later date, since it has the same sized holes on the watch hands, and is therefore a plug in replacement.

4. The asian Rolex 3135 movement should be avoided because of the reliability issues. If someone is going to the extent of removing the caseback on your replica, then the gig is up anyway, clone Rolex movement or otherwise.

Hi

Im amazed by your knowledge!

Its actually confusing that you guys know so much....

But thank you very much for clearing this up.

Much appreciated.

Miwan

[calatrava]

Hi

Im amazed by your knowledge!

Its actually confusing that you guys know so much....

But thank you very much for clearing this up.

Much appreciated.

Miwan

You're welcome. If you ever are interested to learn more about Chinese mechanical movements and watches, I highly recommend watchuseek.com's chinese mechnical watches forum:

http://forums.watchuseek.com/f72/

There is a surprising variety of non-replica watches made by very established Chinese watch companies. Seagull is a particular standout, and makes an astounding range of mechanical watch movements.

[Akilles]

Do you think that the big numbers on the dial (10, 20, 30, 40, 50) are shiny (metalic) like the original Rolex or are they more like grey (non-shiny)? Look at the first picture on this thread.

Happy New Year

Akilles

[Guest tuyre]

Try this site for reasonably priced, Noobfactory submariners:

http://www.timesshop.net/search.php?search_query=Noobfactory+&n=100&submit_search=Search&orderby=price&orderway=asc