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Posted

I want to know if the matt finish of the pre v dials are to be closer to gen or just to minimize the shine of the factory fgd dial.

I have a 203a dial without matt finish and a 201a dial with matt finish and I think the 201a dial seems a bit more grey and less clear(more vintage?) compared to 203a. I think just leaving the fgd dial as is with just the lume job is better. What do you guys think? Is the matt finish job essential?

Posted

all genuine dials have a slightly sheen effect on the surface.

this is the special making of the dials and the special 2 components of varnish.

rolli

Posted

I have not seen anyone really capture the gen look of the dials.

The problem is getting the dial matte and not grayish.

Most builds I see are either shiny black or matt grey.

Posted

It's more about texture than matte. Unfortunately, about the only way to create that subtle texture is with a matte spray... and I think member aardian may have come up with how to make matte spray work :)

Posted

rc tritec was and is the main supplier for panerai, the original varnish for the tritium dials was UV 820 Zapon Varnisch,

a 2 component varnish ( varnish + hardener ) which was non resistent against the light.

the yellowing effect comes from this 2 component varnish.

this varnish is a very slightly sheen varnish. the brass dial got a fine-bead-blasting and after the galvano black surface in a galvano-bath.

and then the varnish on top, and the tritium material was mixed with this UV 820 varnish.

rolli

Rolli,

Do you know the secret ingredients of this varnish or will it sink into oblivion like the varnish of stradivarius violins?

Posted

Thanks for a great insight, Rolli ;)

Zaponlack is actually a very familiar medium to me since I used it many times for sealing solder-on components on PCBs to protect them from moisture back in the day. Actually, when I ran out and was too lazy to run to the radio store supply I made my own zaponlack by dissolving broken ping pong balls (celluloid) in acetone :)

Posted

but it must be the old zapon varnish UV 820 with the second component hardener.

only this varnish with the time makes it yellowed.

rolli

Thanks for a great insight, Rolli ;)

Zaponlack is actually a very familiar medium to me since I used it many times for sealing solder-on components on PCBs to protect them from moisture back in the day. Actually, when I ran out and was too lazy to run to the radio store supply I made my own zaponlack by dissolving broken ping pong balls (celluloid) in acetone :)

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