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CG Brushed Finish Help


bummerh12

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Mate... there is so much info on this and a number of tips and methods...

Far too many to relist here... but try doing a search because they are there...

Hounddoggie also did a tutorial on his version but I think although the link is listed on here in the threads I refer to...the original thread is on RG..

Good luck :)

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Mate... there is so much info on this and a number of tips and methods... Far too many to relist here... but try doing a search because they are there... Hounddoggie also did a tutorial on his version but I think although the link is listed on here in the threads I refer to...the original thread is on RG.. Good luck :)

Thanks Mate.. Found the thread on WC!

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You can use sandpaper also, no problemo ;)

Take CG off, take GC pinion off also if you like perfect final result.

Put 800 or 600 sandpaper on your desk, put CG on sandpaper, press it down hard ( point is that your CG will not moving up and down only forward and backwards) and move CG with you finger (s) forward and back, long sweeps, not short ones. Result will be as gen ones. Steady hands are needed. If needed you can do one final sweep with nr 1000 sandpaper also or slightly with scotch brite.

Usual problems are with this technique:

-stripes on GC surface are not straight and even - moving direction was not right or sweeps were not long enough.

-CG edged are slightly rounded- you did not press CG on sandpaper well ( equable)enough. It was moving up and down slightly.

PS) less sanding and shaping is always better then more. Check always CG surface after every sweep.

My 040 GC back side was done like that and I am happy with result, sorry don`t have any good picture but here it is:

orig_24840655_Jzce.jpg

Edited by sul
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If you use sandpaper on tapered historic CG it will destroy the geometry. You can only fully refinish a 1950 CG that's flat on both top and bottom using this method. With a historic you can use sandpaper/emery bar only if you're finishing the bottom flat part. Also, the easiest method is not to not freehand it but rather use a ruler or a machinist angle as a guide to slide the CG along sandpaper. The only way to do the top curve properly would be to use a jig that will protect the taper. Otherwise using a scotch brite pad is your only recourse. Be very mindful of how aggressively you apply the brushing because you can also lose edge detail if you overdo it.

the grit in the picture looks to be ~400.

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I used a scotch brite(green/yellow) pad on my 250 cg....It came out better that expected.

It was suggested that I use a slightly dampened pad...makes It easier to work with..... and go with the grade as best as possible.

It was also suggested that I check the finish evey few swipes.

I thought even the pin looked more flush when i was done....although.. that was probably just wishful drinking on my part. ;)

Mike

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Thanks for all the suggestions, very much appreciated.

I decided to buy a brushed refurnishing pen. One problem i had was that there was a tiny scratch om the cg. Intructions on the pen was that it is able to remove minor scratches!

Like what w0lf mentioned, for a historic cg that is tapered using a sandpaper is tricky. The refurnishing pen was a easier method.

Will take some pics when i borrow macro lens from my friend.

Cheers,

Dan

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I saw senior watchsmith refinished brushed CG and the method refer to below,

1. Screw off CG and lever pin, prepare two tools 1), big size #800 sandpaper 2), 30 cm length heavy thick ruler

2. Put CG on sandpaper and CG to case side (not the round side) touch ruler

3. Pull CG on sandpaper 5 ~ 10 times by one direction, then CG wills refinish likes the new one

.

Edited by flin0310
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