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Pushing Newmans


freddy333

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A few questions re the Lemania-based Paul Newman:

1. Is there a good source for gen button (as opposed to screw-type) pushers for Lemania-based Paul Newman Daytonas?

A gen OEM part would be nice, but a similar generic or aftermarket replacement that fits the case and works the Lemania movement would be fine. The pushers that I removed were press-fit (as opposed to screwed) into the case.

2. Does anyone have info (an illustrated, step-by-step tutorial would be a dream come true) on how to "freeze" the 12-hour register so the hand always points to "12"? As is, the Lemania movement's a work of art, but, unfortunately, it's also a dead give-away (as a fake) because of the duplicated hour hands.

3. Other than eBay, is there a source for SS Oyster end pieces that will accept the gen 2mm springbars (the lug spacing is 20mm)?

4. What is the correct crystal for the Paul Newman Daytona (T19, T21, other???)?

I have a generic T19 that I was going to use, but I'm wondering if either the T21 or a "Superdome" (not sure of the Tropic number???) would be more authentic?

5. Finally, has anyone ever successfully painted the small black area of the dial that separates the bottom of the 12-hour register from the white band around the circumference of the dial:

post-3175-1162833620_thumb.jpg

As it is, it's the only (obvious) flaw on the dial that keeps it from looking gen, but it's so small that I can't figure out how to paint just the small strip without getting the paint on the adjoining areas, which would completely [censored] it up. Viewed through a 7x loupe, the target area's about as wide as the tip of a sewing needle, if that helps.

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A few questions re the Lemania-based Paul Newman:

1. Is there a good source for gen button (as opposed to screw-type) pushers for Lemania-based Paul Newman Daytonas?

A gen OEM part would be nice, but a similar generic or aftermarket replacement that fits the case and works the Lemania movement would be fine. The pushers that I removed were press-fit (as opposed to screwed) into the case.

2. Does anyone have info (an illustrated, step-by-step tutorial would be a dream come true) on how to "freeze" the 12-hour register so the hand always points to "12"? As is, the Lemania movement's a work of art, but, unfortunately, it's also a dead give-away (as a fake) because of the duplicated hour hands.

3. Other than eBay, is there a source for SS Oyster end pieces that will accept the gen 2mm springbars (the lug spacing is 20mm)?

4. What is the correct crystal for the Paul Newman Daytona (T19, T21, other???)?

I have a generic T19 that I was going to use, but I'm wondering if either the T21 or a "Superdome" (not sure of the Tropic number???) would be more authentic?

5. Finally, has anyone ever successfully painted the small black area of the dial that separates the bottom of the 12-hour register from the white band around the circumference of the dial:

post-3175-1162833620_thumb.jpg

As it is, it's the only (obvious) flaw on the dial that keeps it from looking gen, but it's so small that I can't figure out how to paint just the small strip without getting the paint on the adjoining areas, which would completely [censored] it up. Viewed through a 7x loupe, the target area's about as wide as the tip of a sewing needle, if that helps.

1) Depending on the size of the opening for the existing pusher, you could use a 2.5mm pusher from Ofrei. Not sure if you are looking for screwdown or pump pushers, but they do carry both.

2) ajoesmith did a step by step tutorial on how to freeze the 6:00 subdial.

3) You can simply cut the end link hoops out to accommodate the springbar. I've done it on a number of end links, and it works fine. There is really no need for the hoops,a s the springbar and last link work together to secure the end link.

4) The correct crystal is a T21. If you are installing on a non-DW or EE, it probably won't fit. The case will either be too large, or the lip for the crystal will be of incorrect size.

5) Probably something I wouldn't recommend doing, unless you have a very steady hand.

Best of luck!

R

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1) Depending on the size of the opening for the existing pusher, you could use a 2.5mm pusher from Ofrei. Not sure if you are looking for screwdown or pump pushers, but they do carry both.

2) ajoesmith did a step by step tutorial on how to freeze the 6:00 subdial.

3) You can simply cut the end link hoops out to accommodate the springbar. I've done it on a number of end links, and it works fine. There is really no need for the hoops,a s the springbar and last link work together to secure the end link.

4) The correct crystal is a T21. If you are installing on a non-DW or EE, it probably won't fit. The case will either be too large, or the lip for the crystal will be of incorrect size.

5) Probably something I wouldn't recommend doing, unless you have a very steady hand.

Best of luck!

R

Randy,

Many thanks for the info.

Re 1: Actually, the reason I posted the question here is because I was confused by all the options offered by Ofrei (I need the non-screw "pump" pushers).

I don't really have the proper tool (caliper?) to measure the exact dimensions of the pushers I removed from the case. I just set the pusher on a ruler and eyeballed each of the dimensions. It looks like the diameter of the portion of the pusher that fits into the hole in the case is more like 2.2mm or 2.3mm (Ofrei does offer one 2.2mm pusher). And I guess I could order one of each of the 10 options they offer to see which fits (and looks) best, but, at $12/each, that's not my favourite option. I'm hoping someone has done this before so I don't have to reinvent the same wheel.

Also, what is recommended for fitting press-fit pushers into the case? Ofrei lists a Bergeon 6161 (plyers for fitting pushers) for $89 and a Horotec Pushers-Press for $79.50, which says it will also install crown tubes. Is there a less expensive alternative? Though, since I've got a couple of crown tube installations in my upcoming schedule, the Horotec (presuming it works as advertised) may not be a bad idea...

Re 2: Thanks, I'll search the archives for ajoesmith's solutions.

Re 3: Unless I'm misunderstanding you, the only thing that appears to connect the end piece to the springbar are those two little hoops that appear to be welded to the inside of the end piece. If I cut or remove them, there won't be anything (in the end piece) to slide the springbar through:

post-3175-1162839231_thumb.jpg

Re 4: I don't mean to sound (too) ignorant, but I'm not familar with an "EE" and I'm pretty sure the rep I've got isn't a DW (I think I read in one of your posts that the DW's have 19mm lug widths and this one's 20mm), so does that mean I won't be able to fit ANY (generic) Tropic crystals or is it just the T21 that won't fit?

If NONE of the Tropics (including the generic Tropics that Ofrei sells fit (I've got four of their generic T19s that I was hoping to use for this Newman and the DRSD I got from Andrew), is there another crystal I can use? And I guess I should ask how I can measure the current crystals so I don't make the same mistake again?

Re 5: Definitely no steady hands here...so I'll definitely need all the luck I can get....

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In my experience, a Tropic 21 will fit an EE 6263. I do find, however, that the bezels (especially the black one) can be a bit tight fitting over the crystal.

leitz: As I mentioned in the previous post, I don't know what an "EE" is (if that's one of the dealers here, then I'm pretty sure this rep isn't one of them because I got this Newman Daytona 1-2 years ago on a UK auction site)?

Since the watch I'm working on DOES have the black bezel, I should probably ask what type of problems did you run into fitting the crystal to your watch? Did you need to remove the bezel and, if so, what did you use (case knife, bezel remover, etc.)?

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Re 2: Thanks, I'll search the archives for ajoesmith's solutions.

http://www.replicacollector.com/members/in...showtopic=21298

PS: For the umpteenth time: The movement is NOT "Lemania". It has absolutely NOTHING to do with Lemania. It's a Seagull / Venus copy movement.

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http://www.replicacollector.com/members/in...showtopic=21298

PS: For the umpteenth time: The movement is NOT "Lemania". It has absolutely NOTHING to do with Lemania. It's a Seagull / Venus copy movement.

By-Tor,

Many thanks for the link.

It's difficult for a relative newbie here to know everything that may've been corrected/answered previously. In any case, I referred to the movement by the name the dealer used who sold me the watch. My apologies for the mistake.

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By-Tor,

Many thanks for the link.

It's difficult for a relative newbie here to know everything that may've been corrected/answered previously. In any case, I referred to the movement by the name the dealer used who sold me the watch. My apologies for the mistake.

No need to apologize... you're absolutely right. The newbies can't possibly know all the facts... it's actually the dealer's fault if he/she still advertises it as "Lemania". It's very misleading and it causes a lot of confusion. :thumbdown: Seagull / Venus is very good movement though.

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