sardonix Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 Bought a 5513 with different components watch is not yet arrived. In analysing the parts this is a mystery to me. It has a bracelet 93250 which is not correct for the age. But it has end link 71N that one i have never seen before on a 93250. In the Endlink guide i see 71N go with 7205 was made for 19mm i believe. (i do not know the origin of the case yet and don't have other good pics of front sel fit). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woof* Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 Your numbers are off. 93250 is a sel solid end link bracelet for a modern sub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mapman57 Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 Is this watch a custom build by a member of a forum - if so you can end up with anything ? You can easily combine solid mid link 93250 links with hollow end links and a different clasp. I have a 93250 clasp on my 93150 links ad 580 end links on my 1665 - why? Because from the outside the rep 93250 clasp is the closest to gen modern 93150 clasp that I have ever seen. yep - the 71N end link is for the 7205 rivet bracelet and is 19mm size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sardonix Posted May 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 Yes it is a custom build parts and history unknown, it has a gilt dial meters first so in time we talk about the gen around 1965. The rivet bracelet would be a match in age i guess? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woof* Posted May 18, 2012 Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 Yes it is a custom build parts and history unknown, it has a gilt dial meters first so in time we talk about the gen around 1965. The rivet bracelet would be a match in age i guess? Yes, a rivet or folded link with fliplock clasp. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sardonix Posted May 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 Ok thats clear, only thing i wonder maybe stupid question but what could be the reason that the person who build it used a 19mm end link for a 20mm bracelet. 71N is 19mm a 93250 is 20mm correct? Or is it also possible that the case has 19mm lug width? Like i said i do not have the watch yet, and do not know what case is used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woof* Posted May 18, 2012 Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 "71N is 19mm a 93250 is 20mm correct?" correct "Or is it also possible that the case has 19mm lug width?" I don't know of any sub that is not 20mm at the lugs. Also, it would be a ton of work for him to take the sel's off of the 93250..and figure a way to make the open endlinks attach to that. I still think you have been given the wrong numbers. Anything can be done of course, but why? There are just so many simple and inexpensive solutions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sardonix Posted May 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 I still think you have been given the wrong numbers. I understand that you think that but it is actually on the pics i got from the seller. Take a look: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woof* Posted May 18, 2012 Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 I see what your saying now He's used some kind if midlink S loop connector, sort of what the old rivet's use. Unusual combo of parts and a lot of work. Maybe he lucked onto the parts and decided to make use of them. So what's your plan now if it's got 19mm end pieces? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sardonix Posted May 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 So what's your plan now if it's got 19mm end pieces? I don't know that is why input from board members is welcome Maybe for now let the bracelet be, first see how it looks? Or what other alternatives are there? So far from the pics i got i think the bezel and insert is not correct, bezel teeth to sharp. So that must change. Crystal is not correct better a T19? some pics i got: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sardonix Posted May 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 More thoughts about improvements? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted May 19, 2012 Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 "More thoughts about improvements?" Looking at the pictures, I noticed there is not a rivet where the clasp cap connects to the 'Z' blade like on genuines. The reason why no one uses a rivet on most of their projects is that the flip lock will not clear the rivet heads. It does not show when being worn anyway so it is not a priority. Here is something that will make a little bit of difference and is cheap and easy... Find a stainless steel double shoulder springbar that the tube part just barely fits inside the clasp, I used a 1.8mm OD center tube springbar made for a 16mm space on the last project. Cut the smaller tips of the springbar off so there is just the larger plug sticking out of the clasp on each side. Drill the clasp cap out to accept the springbar (mine needed 1.2mm holes and then I needed to ream them out just a hair). Cut the plugs down until they stick out of the clasp about 1mm +/-. Round the outer diameter of the cut ends off with Cratex, sandpaper etc and see how it fits inside the clasp. It may take a couple tries to get it just right. Polish the tips. The springbar plugs sticking out of the clasp cap will look just like a rivet. You want just enough of the springbar sticking through the clasp cap to hold it together securely...too much and it may hang up on the clasp cap. Rounding the ends off help the clasp slide by besides making the SB ends look more like a rivet. Try this on a spare cheapo bracelet first. Double shoulder springbar = the type with stepped, smooth ends, not the type with ridges on them. The ridged type will work but the plugs will be smaller and not look like a rivet (.8mm or so). A steel springbar with 1.8mm tube and 1.2mm plugs will probably also be stronger that the smaller 1.0 or 1.2mm OD rivet that comes in many bracelets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sardonix Posted May 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 @automatico Thanx for your detailed input. Which vendor is recommended to get a correct 5513 bezel and insert? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woof* Posted May 19, 2012 Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 Sardonix, Sorry if I have confused the issue here, but I am confused myself. Is your watch gen, or frankin with mixed gen/rep parts or just rep mixed parts here? Obviously I see the Tudor rotor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sardonix Posted May 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 The watch is a mistery buy, i could get it cheap so i took the gamble. It could be a 2824-2 Tudor movement. The rotor has much sharper engraving and different shape as the rep tudor rotor from Yuki for example, there must also be an engraving on the dial side of the movement according to the seller. The bracelet was another mistery, why would somebody bother all the work with that none correct end link and bracelet? Maybe that 71N end link had a value to use it. The bracelet is clearly a rep bracelet of low value or not? Could be that such an end link is rare? So with help of you experienced guys i try to figure things out : ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mapman57 Posted May 19, 2012 Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 The bracelet is a mish mash of parts as we all know. The 93250 relates to a solid mid link bracelet - but it may indeed be hollow - as it is a rep and we do not yet know BUT FOR ME THEY LOOK HOLLOW ON THE PICS so this is good! The end link if Gen should be 19mm, BUT as can be seen it is a good fit to the lugs and probably, it has been used simply because it is a good fit to the case and sits and looks great when being worn - which is also good news If they are gen they have some value - if rep, very little value. If they are rep they can have 19mm 71N markings but be 20mm in size - they are rep!!!! If the EL's fit great and the links are hollow - you might find this is a great looking and fitting bracelet, that looks and feels good - but has all of the wrong markings - and therefore so what? When it is on it will look great, feel great and work great. If your wish is make it closer to Gen then indeed this can be achieved quite quickly and at very little extra cost by; a new aged insert and acrylic pearl a T19 plexi - Clark CG's reshaped (plenty to work on) It would be great to know if this is a MBW case - it might well be looking at the lugs and CGs and side elevation (pin bar holes etc)? You do not say what you paid, but it looks a nice piece with even more potential. Enjoy and tell us more when you can... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zeleni kukuruz Posted May 19, 2012 Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 The case most be rep, right? Thouse crown gards are fat!!!The case most be rep, right? Thouse crown gards are fat!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woof* Posted May 19, 2012 Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 If the case etc is rep, I would consider buying Josh's 5513 and robbing the bezel, insert and bracelet from that. If the case is gen, I would scour The Vintage Rolex forum and buy a gen bezel and insert, they come up pretty often. The bracelet, I would use from the Josh 5513, it's not bad at all and if you like, you could add a gen clasp to it. Any gen parts on the bracelet on that watch... you can sell to recoup some money. It's pretty hard to figure what to do.. without knowing the value or gen parts of what you have. When does it arrive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sardonix Posted May 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 The case could be MBW but also an el cheapo right? The seller did not wanted to take the bracelet of to see whats between the lugs. Price is no secret i paid 250 usd for it including shipping. I also liked the dial, never saw that one before at vendors, the font size and spacing from what is sold today. Could be a redial who knows. I looked at plenty of gen 5513 dials and they are different this one has the X of ROLEX slightly above the A of perpetual all the gens have that X ended on the U of perpetual in time it must match with the models directly after the end of SWISS around 1964 when that line became SWISS - T > 25 Also the = between meters and feet sits low in that period later the = is higher printed. So this is what i figured out so far as a vintage noob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sardonix Posted May 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 (edited) In the meanwhile the watch has arrived, Some experienced members gave also their thoughts about it. For the case i think its an Old School CN case with the "paper clip" bezel construction. Case and CG is thick. Enough steel to work on. It has "registered design 1680" and serial "2652174" engraved between the lugs. The dial has a nice vintage look could use a relume job. The movement is the Yuki Tudor engraved 2824-2 as listed on their website: http://www.yukiwatch...112/7899330.htm I have to make my mind up in putting some money in it modding, or just sell it. Make somebody happy who can use this movement for a Tudor build. Got some pics made: Edited May 25, 2012 by sardonix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sardonix Posted May 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2012 I forgot a picture of the bracelet/endlink where this topic was started with. This is how it looks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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