On the subject of new rep crystals with a cyclops...

[w0lf]

Historically, the most glaring issue with all PAM reps that came with a date has always been the magnifier or the cyclops, sometimes coupled with an incorrect calendar wheel font and boldness. Ultimate reps that came out as early as 2008 have began to address this concern with a true to OEM crystal design where the cyclops is recess-milled and is made from the the same piece of corundum as the rest of the crystal along with better magnification and more correct datewheel fonts.

Today, the new lines of reps from both leading makers have improved on the size of the cyclops, A/R coating, overall clarity, magnifying power, crispness, color and alignment of the datewheel print. Essentially, I can honestly say they've dialed in the the optics 85% to OEM. But the devil is in the details. The remaining 10-15% can be achieved by addressing one last issue. It's the same issue that existed in both makers reps for a long time, actually since the first ultimate OEM construction crystals were introduced.

I can't say if the issue is still present in all models but it's definitely there on the flagship H-F PAM88I and Noob PAM29M v2 which is likely one of the most advanced of the recently released models.

The problem lies in the finishing of the surface of the sidewall bore around the cyclops. The diamond cutter marks are polished out on the genuine OP crystal and thus are transparent. Yes, it's as simple as that. You will notice how the edges of the genuine crystal cyclops look like the edges of an underwater air bubble when viewed from the top or the face of the watch. Most reps I've seen new and old, as well as the above mentioned reps specifically, have the cutter bore marks left untouched so you can clearly see the white halo ring marking the edge of the cyclops that gets wider as you turn the watch and look at it at an angle.

The bored out sidewall of the rep cyclops looks frosted, similarly to the side edge of the crystal so on a double-radius crystal like the Noob PAM29 and I would guess H-F 90I/222I that lacks the magnifier effect, the halo is rather pronounced, more so than on traditional lens shaped crystals. Reason is, the traditional lens crystal has magnification power that makes it appear thinner. When you look at watches with a lens shaped crystal at an angle -their rehauts look shallower for this reason. Hence the frosted bore of the cyclops also will look a bit shallower.

Here's a couple of hasty photos so you don't fall asleep completely reading my opus.

*CliffsNotes: New HF/Noob crystals with cyclopses still have a halo and don't look as great as OEM because the bore wall of the recessed cyclops is left with an unpolished frosted-looking finish similar to the edge of the crystal.

OEM OP crystal w/ a 6mm cyclops, underside to show the polished bore:

OEM OP crystal w/ a 6mm cyclops, topside:

Noob PAM29M v2 crystal w/ a 6mm cyclops, underside to show the frosted bore:

Noob PAM29M v2 crystal w/ a 6mm cyclops, topside to show the white halo:

[dluddy]

Fully agree. So close yet so noticeable

[yo2tup]

The cyclops on my noob 243 looks more like the picture of your gen?

Sorry about the poor picture quality, all i have is my iphone right now.

Edited July 18, 2012 by yo2tup

[w0lf]

The cyclops on my noob 243 looks more like the picture of your gen?

Sorry about the poor picture quality, all i have is my iphone right now.

What version is your Noob 243 if you don't mind me asking? It is entirely possible that the Noob factory realized how hideous the frosted sidewall bore looks on a crystal as thick as 243 and corrected it either early on or later in the production cycle. In this case it's just a matter of them taking this extra step on all other models with a cyclops.

[Watchmeister]

Great thread. I will be staring sideways at my crystals for now on.

[yo2tup]

It's the latest noob version, 243M i think.

[PeteM]

Great write up mate.... Thank you taking the time to do that...

I had Domi resolve the issue on mine.... He knew a crystal specialist which he sent it too... To be honest it was mainly to remove some scratches but while there...

Watch has gone now but it certainly improved the issue you have discussed...

It would be interesting to see some more pics of this latest 243 though....

[gianton]

OT:

@PeteM

Glad to see you back mate, it's been a while you were away from the boards.

[StormTooper4]

I'm embarrassed to say I didn't know this was how the Cyclops were. I thought the white ring on one of mine was glue!!!! You learn something every day. Thanks for explaining this

[w0lf]

I'm embarrassed to say I didn't know this was how the Cyclops were. I thought the white ring on one of mine was glue!!!! You learn something every day. Thanks for explaining this

You shouldn't be, actually.

Over the years, the factories have been trying to come up with ingenious designs due to lack of quality machinery. The early attempts produced combination crystals in order to mimic the OEM crystal construction. In the absence of proper optics lapping fpu abrasives and directional milling that are necessary to create crystals with cyclops out of the same corundum blank, it was the only manageable way.

Here's one of the very early combo crystals, which is in fact two overlaid crystals with the bottom one bored through and cyclops glued onto the top one through the recess. Whatever the the halo can observed in this specific case is actually from uv glue. Interestingly, you can see that as early as 2008, some rep factories already realized the value of polishing the sidewall bore, notice how it's not frosted in the second pic.