5513 with yuki bezel, pearl, and dial

[bumroxas]

Hey guys,

 

Took a while but I recently updated my mbw 5513 with a yuki eta dial, bezel and pearl. Got a gen  crown too but I still have to retap the case for the tube.

 

Let me know if theres anything I could do with the existing setup to improve it as I'd like to keep costs at a minimum.

 

The most I would do is probably get a better dial when one pops up at the FS section.

 

now on to the pics:

this is with an older insert not the yuki

Edited January 23, 2013 by bumroxas

[solkryssare]

Looks great mate

[automatico]

"Got a gen crown too but I still have to retap the case for the tube."

 

I have three MBK cases (two late '1680', one '5513' of unknown age, all the same internally) and they all accept genuine case tubes without any modification at all so be sure the threads are not the same as oem before running a tap through the case threads. A misaligned tap will often ruin the threads before you realize it is crooked.

No matter how good the threads in the case are...a tap will usually cut some metal out and if the tap is not perfectly straight when started, it will ruin the case. Because shavings usually appear when running a tap through oem threads, it may seem the original threads are not oem spec when they are.

 

More often than not, all that is needed is to clean the glue, dirt etc out of the case threads and a tap is really not the way to do it because they can do so much damage if not started straight.

All the MBK cases mentioned above had to have the threads cleaned out before a genuine or oem spec case tube would screw in properly. I use a piece of wood sometimes and just screw it into the threads a few times or a pipe cleaner with acetone on it to loosen glue/sealer. You need to remove the movement and keep the crystal side up to keep trash etc from getting on the crystal. If you do not want to risk damaging a 7mm case tube you can try a new or like new regular 6.0mm case tube and see if it will screw into the case without binding up, the threads are the same. If the tube breaks off in the case, you can remove it with a cutting broach or tapered round file.

 

Here is what the official rolex manual says about installing case tubes:

 

1...Choose the right tube (refer to the OYSTER catalogue R 20) and fit it on the corresponding broach.

2...Grease slightly the thread of the tube with Silicone grease Rolex ref. 2909 or grease KT-22, Rolex reference 2907.

3...Screw the tube with its washer on the case band. The tubes stand a screwing torque of about 4 kg-cm.

Tubes No. 5330 are fitted with a silver washer No. 05310.

Tubes No. 6010 are fitted with a silver washer No. 06020.

Tubes No. 7030 are fitted with a silver washer No. 06011.

 

Notes:

line 1...'broach' = case tube wrench as used on later model 'no broach' case tubes. An actual broach was used on earlier tubes that required broaching after installation.

'Broach' tubes...after the case tube is seated you have to remove enough from the inside of the case tube to allow the crown (clutch) tube to turn freely. Cut too little away and the crown may bind in the tube and unscrew the case tube (or just bind up solid)...cut too much away and the tube will break off in the case either by screwing the crown down too tight or smacking the watch against a door frame etc. Because 'broach' tubes are made out of nickel silver, they are easy to break.

'Silver washers' are still used between the case tube and case on 5.3 and 6.0 tubes but modern 7.0 tubes use a plastic/rubber gasket. 

 

"Knowledge is power."    

Francis Bacon

[bumroxas]

thanks for the tip automatico...