Thoughts on this Daytona 6263?

[panerai153]

Several weeks ago, I bought this Daytona from a fellow on another forum. It's sort of and interim watch until I get my 6238 build finalized. It's one of the cartel watches with the Seagull copy Bicompax movements. Frozen totalizer @ 6 sec @ 9. I don't know much about Daytonas, they have never really been my "cup of tea" I had a genuine back in the late 70,s early 80's and it didn't hang around long, as I had a hard time adjusting to the no-date and manual wind. Ended up keeping it for a few months and swapping it for a sub or SD, can't remember! I've had a couple of reps including a DW with the "mystery" movement, but again, they didn't end up being keepers. Now that I'm old enough to remember to wind my watch every morning, and I can get the date from my IPhone, I've gotten a little interest back again. The modern blingy Daytonas leave me as cold asa stone, but the old vintage sort of strike a chord. 

 

At any rate here is the one I bought, it runs fine and is reasonably accurate (+- 10 sec per day) I'm sure this one has a million flaws, just want to get acquainted with them! I don't even know if this dial is a real PN "Exotic" dial or a fantasy. I believe the crown is too big, looks too long to me, the insert has the wrong spaced 110, but outside of that I don't know what is right or wrong. i do know it came on a folded link bracelet which is a rep and not a really good one, I changed it to a genuine Rolex USA C& I  rivet and it's incredibly comfortable. It's amazing how old bracelets that have been worn for years get smoothed out and rounded off and are the most comfortable bracelet going. 

 

All you Daytona experts pick this one apart and let me know what's wrong (Or maybe it's easier to list what's right!!!) Sorry, I have only taken a couple of photos of the watch.

 

[freddy333]

The 2 most salient issues are the bezel & dial. Unfortunately, there are so many details that identify a Newman (Exotic) dial as genuine, all of which yours lacks, so all I can say is the factory got the basic idea, but that is all. Locations of subdials, fonts, crown, etc, are all off. An accurate bezel & dial would get you 90% there, but I am not aware of many dial options for your movement.

 

Here is a gen, 2-color ROC (Oyster) Newman for comparison - note especially the fonts, shape of coronet, location of subdials & dial texture

[danielv2000]

There's also the issue of the screw down pushers on a PN dial. There's a lot of debate whether any genuine 3 color dials were ever fitted to a screw-down Daytona.

You can probably pick up a better bezel from that New York eBay guy (can't remember his name)