tngrn Posted June 28, 2014 Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 Hi Guys, I'm starting a new project to build my own 16610 rep. I already have a 2824-2 ETA movement in top grade ready for this project but I'm not sure about the other parts. As I got a very nice movement, I want to make myself a very good rep. I spotted parts on Yukiwatch but I'm not convinced : First, the engraving saying 16613 Then case is made for 2836 movement which is thicker than the 2824 so I'm not very sure if the movement will be easy to fix inside the case, looking at the ring, I have my doubts even if yuki is saying it will fit... Anyway, still considering it so could you help me with that ? Are the parts from yuki of good quality ? How could I be sure to fix the 2824-2 inside this case, I can't manage to find a ring for that so if you know some place... Any help/feedback appreciated ! Thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbane883 Posted June 28, 2014 Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 Yuki case is crap. For non lug holes 16610, you're better off just buying a TC to be honest. If you can find an old Sean case, that would be a great base too. For a lughole 16610, a ST3135 case is excellent. Movement rings are not hard to find for fitment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomhorn Posted June 28, 2014 Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 (edited) +1 on the TC. Although not necessary, you could easily swap in your ETA 2824 (TC uses a clone movement now), but I believe you will need to make sure that you have the taller cannon pinion setup for that movement for it to fit properly. It will take gen parts, so if you wanted to add a gen crown, tube, crystal and/or insert, there's no issues doing it. Just a word of advice for projects. Research before you buy any parts, and never buy a movement first. That should be the last thing you purchase because the proper movement may be different depending on what case you use. Edited June 28, 2014 by tomhorn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benjji Posted June 28, 2014 Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 all yuki cases are wrong ? also the case for vintage version, 1665, bond 6538 etc ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tngrn Posted June 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 Thanks guys for your replies. @tomhorn : would you have an example of the "taller pinion", I don't really understand what it is. And thanks for the advice, I'll keep that in mind for the future ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tngrn Posted June 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 Oh I guess I see what we're talking about, I found some stuff on ofrei's site : http://www.ofrei.com/page1439.html As there is several heights, would you know which one would be ok for my project if using a TC base ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbane883 Posted June 28, 2014 Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 all yuki cases are wrong ? also the case for vintage version, 1665, bond 6538 etc ? Other Yuki cases are fine...still needs some reshaping, but the 16610 case in particular is horrid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomhorn Posted June 28, 2014 Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 You will need the H4 cannon pinion for your movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preacher62 Posted June 28, 2014 Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 Oh I guess I see what we're talking about, I found some stuff on ofrei's site : http://www.ofrei.com/page1439.html As there is several heights, would you know which one would be ok for my project if using a TC base ? Your movement probably came with H3 wheels TC uses an H4 cannon pinion. That is the wheel on which the minute hands mounts. He uses it, primarily, because it gives a subtle look that is closer the the gen Sub. If you keep the H3 seconds wheel (which normally would be on there) you would need a second hand that has a longer tube. You're in for a very frustrating trip if you have never worked with assembling watches and movements. It's, almost, never as easy as just "drop it in there and go." Most here either have the experience to do a build or they farm it out to one of the modders that are accomplished in such., or, of course, buy a TC Sub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tngrn Posted June 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 I'm ready for the challenge, maybe I'll fail but I'd like to try at least. Buying a complete replica would not be the same for me, I really want to have it my way if I can say so and assemble it myself. And the first thing in this project was to build it around a 2824 caliber with the top grade in order to have a movement that would be COSC compliant but maybe i'm going in the wrong direction... In that case at least I will have learn a lesson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomhorn Posted June 28, 2014 Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 You are going the wrong direction .... or at least trying to do it the hard way when you don't have to. If you're dead set on building it yourself, you can buy all the parts you need from TC and put it together. You're going to need to do a LOT of reading here to figure out how to do it yourself. The movement work of adding the proper parts to make your movement an H4 is best left to a watchsmith (or someone who has done it before). By the questions you have asked, and your reactions to the responses given, you aren't ready to do it yourself ... yet. Your best bet really would be to buy a completed TC Sub and get someone who knows what they are doing to swap the movement in for you. I haven't dealt with TC on an entire watch, but you might want to reach out and see if you can send him the movement and have him put it in for you, or buy all the parts and ship it to BK for assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbane883 Posted June 28, 2014 Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 If you are stuck on doing it yourself, I would get a TC 2824 from Thomas along with his KH dial and hands. Keep your Swiss 2824 in a drawer for now. Because I prefer lugholes, I'd get a sterile 3135 sub case from Startime. I believe the bezel is included, which is excellent. Gen 25-295 crystal, gasket, insert. If all goes well you have a great sub. Expand the lugholes to 1.25mm so you can use gen 2mm spring bars. Once complete, then you can contemplate using your eta 2824 and using the H4 pinion from the TC movement along with the included movement ring. Whatever you decide, good luck and have fun. Failure is the only way you learn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tngrn Posted June 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 Thanks guys for the advices. I think I'll take more time to think about the options I have but I guess you're right, I probably underestimated the difficulty and modding the movement is way out of my league... fo the moment. Anyway, I'll post again when moving in one or the other direction Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tngrn Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Hi, If I want to modify a 2824 movement to add the H4 cannon pinion as TC 2824 Do I only need to replace the cannon pinion or do I need to change the fourth wheel and hour wheel as well ? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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