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Noob vs JF factory Submariner Rep


wright267

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No I don't think so. There are several warning signs. They are not the manufacturer Noob, I can be sure of that, yet their pictures are intended to make one think they are. The prices are rather higher than you would pay from a know Trusted Dealer. 

 

Pretty much every week we hear people new to the hobby say they ordered from a site they found on the web and got scammed. It is far safer to buy from a TD on the forums

 

Welcome to the community by the way?

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Everyone discusses the Submariner with date.

What about the Submariner without date?

 

Submariner 114060LN SA3130 or SH3130 from JF  VS Noob V7

Are they essentially the same as the 116610 but different movement without the cyclops?

Same faults?

 

Newest noob 114060 is OK but dial is fantasy and engraving still says 116010

JF rehaut is nowhere near as good as noob

New BP has the wrong engraving between the lugs too (1141060 lmfao)

 

Best combination would be JF movement, noob hands, noob case, probably BP insert, JF bracelet, BP dial

 

 

 

 

 

 

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This should be known...

 

Neither is best.

 

114060 isn't available with 3130 from Noob, so the only option is JF.

 

116610 Noob v7 SA3135 VS JF SH3135 v2:

rehaut, Noob

case, Noob is gen spec and more correct

clasp, Noob

insert and bezel, Noob

dial/hands, pretty equal

SELs/bracelet, JF

movement, JF by miles

crystal, pretty equal

 

 

I would still buy the JF... AND the Noob and combine the best parts.

 

However, unless you're planning on spending extra cash on your watch, I would go for the 2836-2 Noob v7. If you want to be able to upgrade inte the future I would go for the Noob v7, and possibly upgrade it in the future with a JF-movement.

 

I for one have a JF with Noob parts, and genuine dial/hands and I will change the midcase in the future to a Noob v7.

But I bought mine before all the SH3135 being a Yuki was obivous, and I was after the movement, since I wanted the engraved Yuki for my watchmaker to experiment on.

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While you knowledgeable gentlemen are about, is the 114060 dimensionally the same as the 116610 on the gen? 

I seem to recall that was not the case with 14060 and 16610. I remember reading the no date case was a little slimmer 

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That SA unit isn't the same as the JF/Yuki I think and only dimensionally the same as the gen movement, no gen parts fit and I think still not replacement parts available. Is that correct?

 

Mechanism parts that is, I believe dial and hands fit no problem

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Our TDs are here

https://rwg.cc/forum/230-watches-clothing-parts-accessories/

 

Also 

www.puretime03.com

www.pf-818.com

 

The dealer quoted above is a TD on at least one of the other fora, so legitimate, but not a dealer here, so we would not be in a position to help if there is a dispute or problem. If you are a member of other fora, they would help.

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16 minutes ago, Ssouthall6 said:

 

New info to me, thanks!

 

Then the same rules apply for the Noob 114060 as for the JF.

 

I hope that the Noob v7 114060 SA3130 isn't engraved 116610 like the v7 a2836 is...

 

No pictures on the site.

 

--

 

@Sogeha, yeah.

 

Dimensions are both gen spec, however apart from large parts, like dial hands, the SA313X has no parts interchangeble with the genuine 313X or Yuki/SH313X.

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These are counterfeit goods. I can't guarantee no problems. Customs is always a risk for example. They won't just take your money though, and if they did, we would back you. Puretime has been with us a long time and I have bought from them several times. 

 

As to which one, I'll have a look and see, unless any of you other gentlemen have a suggestion?

 

Do you want to wear it as is, or do you intend to modify it either now or in future?

Okay had a quick look. 

A2813 is a Chinese copy of a Miyota movement, it's a workhorse, but sometimes the rotor can be noisy 

$148 what is not to like for a beater

2836 is a Chinese copy of an ETA movement. A wear as is watch, good

Noob SA3135 is the movement that is the same shape as the genuine Rolex, but won't take genuine parts. I heard reliability improved recently. It's the modders choice and when the movement dies, a simple swap to the JF/Yuki movement, which is a clone of the Rolex one.

 

like much in life, there is no simple answer.

Any thoughts guys?

 

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I would buy the Noob v7 2836. Most bang for the buck, and most likely all you will ever need. 

 

When the Frankenstein plans and the replica scene and its possibilities gets to you, you will rethink the possibilities and buy 2 or 3 watches and combining parts will be a reality, but since you ask, most likely you aren't there yet, and your wallet thanks you. 

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The sa3135 will take genuine parts it just needs minor modification. It will accept the driving and reversing wheels if you grid down the jewel. And once you do this, on the newer version that doesn't have the weak jewel, you have a surprisingly robust movement


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The sa3135 will take genuine parts it just needs minor modification. It will accept the driving and reversing wheels if you grind down the jewel. And once you do this, on the newer version that doesn't have the weak stem, you have a surprisingly robust movement


Corrected my previous post as I typed in a rush




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